Rear Carrier Bearing

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Binding??? Is it all installed correctly??

Some people have put a small washer underneath the stud that comes through for the center carrier bearing to raid it up. Some people of had to do that and some haven’t depend upon the condition of their rear end bushings that mount to the frame. When you give the truck gas the rear and torqued down due to weak bushings and the driveshaft hits the frame.

Looked and did notice 1 of the front bolts that hold rear differential in broke some how so I will replace the bolt and clamp/screw. It drives fine and will update after I replace and make sure all is tight.
 
that's a big bolt to break..... Wonder if it was loose and fell out..... weird things you have going on...lol
 
Actually first couple threads were bad, fixed and put in new bracket/nut for that bolt. Added 3 washers to each side of carrier bearing and the knocking is gone all for an additional $1.09. I actually spent my tires and all is good. t/u Todd Z
 
Just saw this thread... my 2007 V8 4x4 has 215,000 on the clock. It is in for PA state inspection and I got a call about rear carrier bearing. Shop is having trouble finding one. Options are $650 from Ford but not available- and price only goes north from there.
Any help on part number and place to get it would be greatly appreciated.
Love this truck and its the first time I have had any trouble other than normal maintenance items like pads, fluids, belts, tires, etc...
 
I posted the 3 links where you can get them in the thread, scroll up and look.
Colorado is my go to.
 
have fort wayne shaft. beefy and reliable. easy install. replaceable bearing. but shipping package was pretty sub par.
 
I posted the 3 links where you can get them in the thread, scroll up and look.
Colorado is my go to.
Talked with Colorado, seems like a good guy and it is a serviceable unit.
None in stock, but could assemble n ship pretty quick.
Do you subscribe to the 3 washer fix too?

Thanks for the help.
 
I see my carrier bearing rubber is shot now (2009 Adrenalin AWD). What's the deal with replacing this bearing? Is it really "unserviceable" on the AWD? Why is it a "nightmare" on the 4WD? Is the 4WD different than the AWD? I'm not noticing any drivability issues, but it definitely needs to replaced.
 
Carrier bearings are a PITA just to begin with. It's a sealed unit and not meant to be rebuilt or repacked, thus "unserviceable".

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I'm sure there are lots of "how-tos" on this topic 2009 ford sport trac adrenalin carrier bearing how to install - Google Search

Key thin is to mark the driveline (before you pull it out) so you can match the two halves when installing for the correct phase so you don't create a vibration. The driveline is balanced and placing it a tooth or more off when rebuilding can cause this. As far as the yokes on the axle and t/case those aren't balanced with the driveline but it doesn't hurt installing them the way they came out. If the rubber is shot on the carrier assembly just replace it. If it's not vibrating it will soon enough.

As far as the difference between a 4WD and AWD, simple, 4WDs have a selectable transfer case, 2HI, 4HI, and 4LO. AWD is just that AWD, you cannot select a AWD LO or 2WD option as They doesn't exist, no extra gears in the case. AWD cases usually have a power ratio that is generally a 40% power to the front and 60% power to the rear for traction. I don't know what ratio is exactly, it could be 50/50. What I do know the AWD case acts like a differential with a limited slip carrier. Whereas if one side of the carrier senses wheel spin it locks and applies equal pressure to the non-spinning wheel so traction is regained. So if the case senses either one of the front or rear tire spinning it will lock and apply equal power to the opposite end (front or rear) that is not spinning to regain traction.
 
Thanks for your response, dvd. I do understand the functional differences between 4WD and AWD. When I asked about the difference between the 4WD and the AWD, what I meant was “is there a difference in the driveshafts?”
Reason I ask is that if I decide to replace the entire driveshaft, Dorman has a replacement option for the 4WD (936-896), but their website states that this driveshaft does not fit the AWD. I may have to call them.
 
If you’re not set up to do the work yourself, like me. You can drop $2100 at your local dealer and they will change out the bearing and the driveshafts as they sell it as an assembly. If I had a place to do it, I would have definitely gone with just the bearing change
 

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