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rypp77

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I have a new starter, battery, relays, ignition switch.
1: without new relay, just a humming noise with I turned the key
2: with new relay, just a clunk noise but no spinning.
I changed out the entire battery harness thinking it was a bad connection.
What else would cause the starter not to engage?

Brief history on the truck: Bought it two weeks ago for $900, thieves stole the cats and dealer didn't want to deal with it. All this said it had a starter issue. The battery might of been disconnected for a while, since there are no codes to read.
 
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Is the humming noise coming from the starter motor? Did you put the starter in yourself?
 
Yup, two different starters. Don’t it many times before. I’m about to check the neutral safety switch. Other than that, I’m stumped.
 
Yup, two different starters. Don’t it many times before. I’m about to check the neutral safety switch. Other than that, I’m stumped.
That's a good place to look, but if it's your starter motor humming, that doesn't sound like a neutral safety switch. That sounds like your starter isn't getting enough juice to turn. You replaced the battery cable, made sure all the connection lugs were clean and connected nice and tight, and the battery itself has enough cranking amps, and the terminals are clean and tight.

...when did the engine last run?
 
did all those things, the humming is no longer there, I'm checking the rest of the switches, and making sure the shifter is in the right location.
 
It's a fairly simple circuit. You turn your ignition key, which moves the ignition switch connections to contact and sends a signal to the solenoid on the starter. The solenoid closes, bridging the current from the hot battery connection to the wire going to the starter motor. The motor turns, moving the starter pinion against the flywheel, which turns the engine.

As far as switches, I don't know one to check except the ignition switch. But if the starter was 'humming before,' it sounds like the ignition switch was doing its job sending the signal to the solenoid.

Take your multimeter and check the wires at the starter solenoid—especially the Terminal B to ground. You should get the same voltage reading as you do at your battery.

I've seen batteries that tested fine on checking their voltage, but they didn't have enough cranking amps to turn the engine over. If you have no way to test load of your batter, a good way to see if the battery is still good is to test the voltage drop at the battery while someone turns the truck over. If it stays above about 10.5 volts while cranking, it is still good. If it drops below 10.5v then the battery is on the way out, if it drops below 10v, it's probably bad.

You can also manually bridge power under the car from terminal B to terminal M on the solenoid. If the starter turns, you know you have the juice to the solenoid, and you know the starter motor is good.

So then you consider the solenoid itself and work backward from there. It could be a bad solenoid, or it could be that your solenoid isn't getting the right signal from the ignition switch.
 
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One last thing, what codes are showing on your OBD2 reader?
 
The shifter was extremely slopping, so I replaced the bushing, wanted to make sure the shifter was in the correct position. I discovered this while I was working on that. Might not have been making full contact at the key. Hooked up the reader, I got no codes.

Brief history on the truck: Bought it two weeks ago for $900, thieves stole the cats and dealer didn't want to deal with it. All this said it had a starter issue. The battery might of been disconnected for a while, since there are no codes to read.
 

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The shifter was extremely slopping, so I replaced the bushing, wanted to make sure the shifter was in the correct position. I discovered this while I was working on that. Might not have been making full contact at the key. Hooked up the reader, I got no codes.

Brief history on the truck: Bought it two weeks ago for $900, thieves stole the cats and dealer didn't want to deal with it. All this said it had a starter issue. The battery might of been disconnected for a while, since there are no codes to read.

I think that explains why your starter quit humming/buzzing. My concern is how did that happen? Was it really dirty? Did a small pebble work its way inside the key cylinder?

That part slides right off. I may have an old one around here. I'll look. I can't find a separate part number for it. So you might have to buy a new lock cylinder kit to replace it. If I didn't throw out my old lock cylinder, I'd send you that part. ...but there's a good chance I tossed it.

https://www.group1autoparts.com/oem-parts/ford-ignition-lock-cylinder-repair-kit-1l3z11582a
Do you know the procedure for replacing the cylinder without having to rekey your truck?
 
I found it. It's in good shape. I can mail it to you if you PM me your address.

That will save you from having to buy an entire kit if the rest of your cylinder is in good shape.

IMG_0010.JPG
 
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