Engine shaking

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Thank you all for the information I'm having the same issue however I have a gas cap light on a engine light on and my codes are rich bank one and Rich Bank two.
Also the scan tool says EVAP system leak but I don't have a clue where to even start looking. Appreciate your help along with helping the rest of us with issues anybody have any advice let me know. I have checked all the injectors I had one that was bad and it's fine now
 
Thank you all for the information I'm having the same issue however I have a gas cap light on a engine light on and my codes are rich bank one and Rich Bank two.
Also the scan tool says EVAP system leak but I don't have a clue where to even start looking. Appreciate your help along with helping the rest of us with issues anybody have any advice let me know. I have checked all the injectors I had one that was bad and it's fine now
Check the gas cap. It’s either loose or you need a new one. That is typically why the gas cap light is on.
There could be other issues but that is the first step.
If the cap isn’t loose, unscrew it and then screw it back down and make it click a couple of times. Clear the codes and drive it.
After a couple of trips where the engine has fully cooled off for a few hours (best to let it sit overnight) and drive it again. If the gas cap light comes back on replace it and repeat the process.
If the CEL light comes back on without the gas cap light, scan again and address that issue next.
One step at a time.
 
Just my $0.02 worth, but get a OEM fuel cap. Have seen too many from O'Reilly's/Auto Zone that threw as many codes as a worn out OEM.
 
Just my $0.02 worth, but get a OEM fuel cap. Have seen too many from O'Reilly's/Auto Zone that threw as many codes as a worn out OEM.
That’s interesting. Before I retired 10yrs ago, I would say out of the thousands of new fuel caps from Stant maybe 1 or 2% were defective. In fact they were the company that made the adapters and calibration caps for the ESP Emissions test systems that we used as well as an OEM supplier. Unless there has been some drastic change in the last 10yrs the aftermarket parts stores that stock the stant brand should be a solid cheaper option than the dealership. If you do happen to get a defective new cap it’s not that big of a deal to just take it back for another one.
The euro cars were the only models that I didn’t give the customer the option of the aftermarket product.
 
Not mentioned but did you check for a possible vacuum leak in one of the hoses. it could lean out your air/fuel ratio mix.
i checked and replaced most hoses the are worn out..
 
Question. How can I determine if the new cap is defective or not?
 
Any emissions testing facility should be able to test the cap for you. Unless the govt has reno moved that function from the machines over the last ten years. Most of your drive through test centers may not have inspectors that have the permissions granted by the test site owner to access the diagnostics mode but a repair shop tech should know how to do the test. Emissions test equipment is an invaluable diagnostic tool for a good drive ability tech or performance shop. New gas caps from stant are not too expensive for most vehicles. There are some that were a little pricey but the cap for an ST I would guess is below $25 at the auto parts store.
A quick search on partsgeek.com has the Motorcraft OE brand for $17 (‘03 Sport Trac) if you want to stay with an OE part. I didn’t see the stant brand offered on my autozone app, perhaps they are not as desirable these days or gone back to being an OEM supplier? Gates and Motorad are also reputable brands.

Now I’m curious about the lack of listings for the stant brand.
 

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