Recent content by gavin T

2nd gen bed extender for sale. the rubber grommets on the tips that contact the bed are gone or worn but its its goodshape otherwise. nothing wrongwith it. sold my ST amonth ago forgot i had it in the yard! asking$50 plus shipping or if your near philly i can meet you. fyi in the end my ST...

just tested. here's my results 14.2V at the battery while idling. 13.8V with load from windows at idle car off 12.4V at battery car 11.9V car off with load from windows

any photo of the hose yo replaced i would be curious if its this. all the plastic in my engine bay is TOASTED lol

when i raise the windows up, if they are already up and i try this the truck will stall or rpms drop below 500 and it basically stalls. if im comming to a stop and using the steering like coming into a parking spot some times the truck will stall. its got plenty of power on road. sometimes on...

seeing mixed info can someone verify the size of the front u joint? looks like 1310 but is it 1310 BC?

cant figure out what size u joint i have in the front drive shaft. my pinion seal is bad and one of the stupid ass torx 30 bolts might as well do the u joint too if im tearing it apart. fordparts.com says 1330 rock auto says 1310 2008 ford sport trac V8 xlt 4x4

looking for these two parts from anyone with a black xlt gen 2. im near philadelphia

I have issues opening my doors in the winter because water gets in the jams and freezes... Could you possibly be getting water down there?. I get it on the a b and c pillars. Driver side more so. That is also a short run of wire only going from the keypad to the sjb in the driver floor well...

Yep!! But i i also had to clear that b106e from a selftest on the module! What's wrong with keypad? Do you have a a remote start? Or have u disabled tpms?

SOLUTION..... @Todd Z i replaced the front blinker and directional they had heat marks and one of the wires has corroded but both still got power and flashed... and before restarting the car i used forscan to clear all DTCs specific that B106E and poof issue resolved. HAPPY TIME!!! this...

pl please try to avoid reviving old threads. this was from 2014. he says right above your post that his alternator was his issue sending to high of current to the GEM/SJB forcing it into safe mode cutting power to low voltage devices typically an B106E DTC code

update forscan revealed B106E DTC along with DTC for rear right bulb out. the B106E makes me believe that i was grounding out constantly because of a bad wire i spliced in to power my Side View mirror blinkers. you need to clear all DTCs then run a self-test of system inorder to restore power...

for GEN 2 - they have GEM/SJB NO REALYS!!! there are a number of people with LEDs. BUT you need special CANBUS bulbs rated for the proper current of the ST GEM/SJB. OR you can add in-line load resistors. to the LED bulbs. OR you can open up your SJB and tweak the circuits.... no recommended...

those 1st gen ST seem to be tanks... no electric BS and regular maintence keeps them kicking!

you cannot replace the relays for turn signals in these vehicles. the relays are built into the Smart junction box. i am diagnosing a similar issue currently. i have a wiring diagram on my post for this