New battery terminals

Decided to clean up the ends of the battery wires as they were kinda ugly, messy, and old. Upgraded the battery to frame ground from the beat up 8ga to 4ga.

Before:



Replacements:



After:




While unbolting the ground point I broke the ring terminal off of one of the small harness grounds. Had to rig a patch until I can find a good ring terminal for a small gauge wire.

Looks like quality BattTerminals & good install work!
Not long ago, installed 4Bolt SolidBrass BattTerminals, Link+Pic below, on both SportTrac & wifes car;
after getting tired of cleaning corrosion that consistently accumulated on the old ones.
4Bolt SolidBrass BattTerminals Termex#tm10-2x

These terminals are solid brass that are copper plated and chrome plated. They hold very well without having to go ham with the Allen key, I did rough-up the post with a bit of 120grit sandpaper though. They hold 0-8ga wire. I used ferrules for a better "crimp" with the set keys.

Those felt rings on the before pics worked wonders for eliminating corrosion but I always soak them in dielectric grease. It is messy and gross but have never had a "cursed cotton-candy" issue since I started doing that years ago. I did not use them this time so we shall see if the plastic cover is enough.

Those four-bolt look like beasts. I never did really like the standard two-bolt ones and threw that one on (emergency situation) as it was the only thing that was available at the part store two years ago.

I havent had to replace mine on the trac, but when i replaced the ones on my f350 (7.3 powerstroke) i used military style solid brass ones on both batteries i found on amazon. I think they where around $40 per pair, and will fit any wire you can put a ring terminal on big enough for a 5/16" bolt through. Probably be over kill on a trac, but not on a diesel pushing 2000+ amps from batteries and another 250 from alternator...

Almost went that route but then found these on ebay at $20 for the pair shipped. I didn't want to do a bunch of large crimps inside the engine compartment either as the crimper is large and unwieldy. Some folks say the set screw type will back out from vibration but I have found if you use ferrules and do it right this does not happen. And, if paranoia gets ya, you can always just dab a tiny spot of nail polish on the set screw after you tighten it.

Ive used those in my old 2 door tahoe that was running dual batteries, 2ga cables, dual 200 amp alternators, 1500w stereo system, 1600w ham radio, a warn 10k winch as well as enough kc daylighters to land a 747 in fog...lol. never had a problem with them either. The cheap parts store lead ones would get hot and pull apart at the pinch bolt ears. Those, as you said ferrules are you friend. And i actually staked my set screws(center punch just off the edge of screw hole, no way to back out) and never had a problem.

If using the style like in the top pic, Flip over the plate, It gets more bite on the wires...