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That's messed up. All the Mevotech kits, except for the barrel-nut version, are stated as having >10" bolts. See if they will send you a new one?

Rockauto lists the bolt length and diameter for much of their stock. They carry a number of brands that will work.

2-wd? Did mine a couple years back, was cake. The rotor and hub are one piece. It will come with a new race already pressed into it, no hammer-time needed. You will need new bearings, seals, and cotter pins. You can pound the new seals in with a block of wood and a rubber mallet. Don't forget...

Hello Rogério. Can you buy from eBay or Amazon? Look for part number 1L5Z-15607-AA (see the end of post #16 above). Olá Rogério. Você pode comprar no eBay ou Amazon? Procure o número de peça 1L5Z-15607-AA (consulte o final da postagem nº 16 acima).

So many ways to repair threads. Choose one... https://www.google.com/search?q=thread+repair+kit

Almost went that route but then found these on ebay at $20 for the pair shipped. I didn't want to do a bunch of large crimps inside the engine compartment either as the crimper is large and unwieldy. Some folks say the set screw type will back out from vibration but I have found if you use...

These terminals are solid brass that are copper plated and chrome plated. They hold very well without having to go ham with the Allen key, I did rough-up the post with a bit of 120grit sandpaper though. They hold 0-8ga wire. I used ferrules for a better "crimp" with the set keys. Those felt...

Decided to clean up the ends of the battery wires as they were kinda ugly, messy, and old. Upgraded the battery to frame ground from the beat up 8ga to 4ga. Before: Replacements: After: While unbolting the ground point I broke the ring terminal off of one of the small harness grounds...

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-reservoir-windshield-washer_8a2z-17618-a.html Better?

LOL! Oh hell. Sorry. Did not even notice that.

https://www.carparts.com/details/Ford/Explorer_Sport_Trac/Replacement/Coolant_Reservoir/2007/XLT/RF16130003.html Look right? Says if fits 07-10 xlt, all engines.

Nah, it's not the heat from the LED that will be the problem, though it will contribute. The general heat soak of a spring day will cause PLA to warp and deform. Then, as summer creeps in, the PLA will likely totally fail, esspecially considering how thin-walled the holder will be. If you can't...

Doable, but... print in ABS or better. PLA will melt. ABS is tricky though, and toxic while printing. Might be able to use PETG as its heat resistance is close to ABS. Reinforced nylon may work but your nozzle best be up to the task.

Freakin' legend! I'm in! Who do make the check out to?

Did you get the red ones? They have to be the red ones to see any performance increase. 😀 Everyone knows red increases horsepower, handling, and braking. So I can pester businesses for free stuff in exchange for exposure now? I mean, I do have more than zero followers on Reddit.

Factory wires. Heat and age just got to them, I should have replaced those plugs a long time ago. Should have replaced the wires a long time ago too... 22 years and 130k on original wires, lol.

My hands barely fit as is, hence the damage to my hands and arms. No way gloves would work for this job.

Yup, ap103's for sure, I was cheap back then. I did use copper anti-seize, personally see no reason not to. I just put a small glob on and used a paint brush to spread it so there was just a thin coating. Torqued to about 120inch-pounds, which is about middle-range according to my Haynes manual...

They didn't put up much of a fight coming out. Busted my knuckle on #5 when it let go and sent my finger into the corner of the power steering reservoir. I have no idea how it was not misfiring, it was running fine, no problems, just bad gas milage. Replaced with sp500. Let's see... I put those...

Don't know how it was running just fine with no codes or issues. The third busted piece is still in the old wire. Don't mind the squashed gap... it got dropped.