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Mine has been at the Ford Dealership since Monday. I was so completely frustrated; I'm surrendering to the Ford Techs, hoping their expensive diagnostic systems and training can nail it down. In my case, I think it's the PCM. When I clear all my fault codes and run the truck, I get no ZERO...

It looks like the OP has moved on, but it's worth more just in parts. If everything is in good shape, especially if it's a southeastern car (no rust or corrosion), it is worth more than $1,000. Granted, it's not a quick buck. You have to remove the parts and ship them. This is laborious, but...

You and me both. I signed off on the $139 diagnostic fee. It was clear I only wanted them to diagnose the electrical problem and gave them all the details. I don't want to send my cluster off to be repaired, only to find that it was the PCM, and I don't want to order a PCM to find it was the...

It's at the Ford dealership now. So hopefully, they'll be able to nail it down. I'm betting it's the PCM, PCM connector (although I inspected the plug, and it looks clean to me), every plug I checked, every ground I checked all look fine. For some reason, the PCM is coming on when the...

UPDATE: I didn't fix the problem. I have no idea why it seemed to work for half a day and then started right back up. So I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow and hoping they can diagnose this annoying problem. I still don't think it's the instrument cluster itself. I think there is an...

SOLUTION: It was the ignition switch. As I suspected, the instrument cluster is fine. Thank you, Todd Z! I never suspected the ignition switch because I thought that would have caused a no-start situation, and it didn't throw a code. But then, when you mentioned it, I vaguely remember seeing a...

At 300k+ miles, I know she is worth more to me than anyone else. But since I've owned her since new, I know she's had oil and filter changes every 3k-4k miles. I also just put on new valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets. The guides still look good. She runs as smoothly as she did the day I...

My '04 still has its original timing cassettes with guides in one piece at 300k+ miles. So, I guess everything has its tradeoffs. If the switch doesn't fix the problem, she'll be going to the stealership for diagnostics on Monday. Hopefully, they'll earn their hourly rate.

Man, I'm a pretty good wrench. But when it comes to electrical problems, I feel like I'm doing my taxes. I've found that intermittent shorts are well intermittent. Meaning, unless the circuit is shorting when you're testing that particular circuit by pulling the fuse, it might not show the...

I'm really hoping it's not the gauge cluster again. First, because it's a pain in the ass to remove it, mail it off, and then wait for the return. Second, because if it is the cluster, which I don't think, that means it only lasts a year or two before it shorted out again. It's a shame; the...

Well, it's a fairly cheap and easy part to replace, so perhaps I'll roll the dice

I guess he passed on this.

Yes, I absolutely hate electrical problems. It's like trying to find a needle in a haystack.

A year or two ago, my instrument cluster went on my '04 XLT. So, I got it rebuilt (I actually bought a rebuilt one off eBay). Now I'm having new but different issues. When my truck is on, everything on the cluster runs fine. No problems. But when I remove the key, about 30 seconds or so...

Here are the fuse box diagrams for the '00-'05 fuse boxes https://knigaproavto.ru/shemy/en/ford/explorer/317-2000-2005-ford-explorer-sport-trac-fuse-box-diagram.html

I hate to say it, but it can be a lot of things. My instrument cluster on my 04 went out last year, so I had it serviced. Ford runs a lot of electrical stuff through their instrument cluster, and when they go bad, a lot of strange things can happen. So it could be that. Interior lights will...

WOW ... 19-year-old truck with ONLY 60k miles on the clock, that's rare. Welcome.

The only thing I might add is a weak battery can shorten the life of the alternator, which in turn manifests itself as a weak NEW battery. I went through a round of this which was most aggravating. The final solution for me was replacing the battery and alternator at the same time. ....no...

Ah! I just drain it from the bottom following a similar procedure to what Chrisfix does on YouTube. But I only do it about once every two years, so I guess roughly once every 30k miles...or so.

That's interesting. Why do you do it so often?