'01 ST won't start when cold

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Joey Hedrick

Joey Hedrick

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Location
Louisville, KY
My situation is somewhat similar to Jim's issue (linked). I live in Indy, and it's been pretty darn cold this week.



This past Monday morning, went out to start my '01 ST and it wouldn't start for anything. Hooked up a jumper box and still nothing. It cranks and cranks, and sputters every few seconds. Just when you think it might start, it continues cranking.



Had AAA come out and check the basic stuff, he found nothing, except I'd pretty much fried my 5-year-old battery trying to get it running. So I had it towed to a local Firestone (only place within my 3-mile free tow range). Said they'd replace the battery, fuel filter, and do a fuel system cleaning, but they found no codes. They suggested replacing plugs and wires, but wanted $400 for it... I said no, just get it running again, I'll get to those later. Picked it up Thursday night and it drove fine. Went to start it up this morning (Friday)... and nothing. Tried 3-4 times throughout the day, still nothing, except the same symptoms as before -- cranking with the occasional sputter. Dumped a bottle of Heet in there, waited an hour, same result.



Had a friend come over with a fuel pressure gauge and it started out at about 58 and lowered to around 50 within about 10 seconds. Checked the plugs and he got sparks. So I've got sparks and fuel, but it still refuses to start.



Any ideas as to what I should check next? I'm not really a "car guy," so I'm completely out of ideas at this point. Any help is greatly appreciated... having 1 car between me and the wife really sucks.



Many thanks...

Joey
 
The one common winter-time problem that I'm aware of is the Idle Air Control Valve. When it's dirty, it gets stuck so that it won't idle after starting. You can clean it for free, or replace it yourself at a low cost.



This might not be any help to you, though, because it sounds like your problem isn't idling, but just starting.
 
It does shudder and rumble as if it's just about to start, but it never quite does. Perhaps it's sticking so much that it won't allow it to fully start? Just tossing out ideas, I really have no clue what I'm talking about.
 
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OK, so your issue is known as crank, no start (as opposed to no crank, no start). How many miles on your Trac? Have spark plugs and plug wires ever been changed? I'd try the simple stuff first: Clean out air box and replace air filter if needed. Clean out the throttle body and idle air control valve. Replace PCV valve. See Projects>Maintenance section here and also YouTube for DIY help (I like ericthecarguy's videos a lot). I'm leaning fuel delivery as the issue, but fresh plugs/wires can make a big difference, especially if they've never been done.
 
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I'm at about 140k miles, and no, plugs and wires have never been replaced. They're next on my list, once I get it running. It runs fine in warm weather, and I have spark even when it's cold, so my impression was that changing them wouldn't resolve my no start situation.



By fuel delivery, are you referring to the injectors? My buddy has suggested that since fuel pressure looks good, perhaps it's just not getting through the injectors.



Thanks for all the help.
 
You mentioned just having some work done at local Firestone store, so let's set aside the injectors for the moment. You may have spark but original plugs at 140K are well past their prime; replacing plug wires along with plugs would be best, IMO. Do the intake steps I previously suggested and see if you can't get your Trac to start and run - it'll take you a couple of hours and very little money.
 
If you push on the gas pedal just a smidge will it start?



If not then the next thing that you need to do is get yourself a scan tool that is capable o fshowing engine coolant temp and also ambient air temp. After the vehicle has sat overnight adn before you try to start both of these readings should be within a degree or 2 of each other adn should be almost dead on with the outside temperature. If these readings aren't correct the engine will either get too much fuel or not enough fuel depending on which way the numbers are skewed.



If all the numbers look good then I would start with changing the plugs. Often times once the plugs get fuel fouled they don't like to fire correctly when they are cold, I used to run into this ALOT when I lived in the Upper Penninsula of Michigan if I forgot to plug my car in overnight.
 
Well, I managed to get it started once it got up to about 25 degrees. I turned the key to accessory position, let it sit for a few seconds, turned it off, then turned it back to accessory for a few more seconds. Started up almost immediately. Assuming I can get it started Monday, I'm going to take it somewhere to get the plugs and wires done.
 
I turned the key to accessory position, let it sit for a few seconds, turned it off, then turned it back to accessory for a few more seconds. Started up almost immediately.
Click to expand...



Fuel pump (check valve)?
 
If not then the next thing that you need to do is get yourself a scan tool that is capable o fshowing engine coolant temp and also ambient air temp. After the vehicle has sat overnight adn before you try to start both of these readings should be within a degree or 2 of each other adn should be almost dead on with the outside temperature. If these readings aren't correct the engine will either get too much fuel or not enough fuel depending on which way the numbers are skewed.
Click to expand...



Scott, can you do the same cold motor comparison with a digital VOM?? Most all signals are 1 to 5 vdc signals,,aerent they?



From what you just said, Sounds as if a sensor is not satisfied. Or out of range on startup.

Or it is in the ignition circuit during cranking. You say you have spark, but do you have spark continusly?? I had a Dodge that had spark intermitantly. Turned out to be the ignition switch, in the column.



At 140k miles if a tps sensor gives a wrong signal. It may flood the engine or starve it for fuel.

Spark plugs and wires wont work one day and not the next. They get weaker and run bad until they quit.

 
You could do the same with a DVOM but if you can look at the info with a scanner and it's correct you just ruled out everything between the sensor and the pcm on that circuit...I'm all for working smarter not harder.



Yardsdale



If there was adequate fuel pressure while cranking the engine that rules out the fuel pump check valve...just saying
 
Vapor lock...Indy...February...record cold. Doubt it. I think Joey's prob is lack of maintenance, not something broken. Hopefully he'll tell us of progress.
 

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