2002 ST Driver door says "DOOR AJAR"

[Tim OLeary]

Suddenly. Door doesn't close flush but unlocks (with inside and outside handles) locks (when door is closed) & latches OK. (shouldering the door from the inside and it does not open).
I lifted up on door and upper door bushing is worn, but not noticeably more than other doors. The nylon on the door lock striker is very worn and cracked. Tryed to adjust and a lot of WD-40 into the latch hole.
In the four days I have the problem, the DOOR AJAR light went off TWICE when I closed the door.

BTW: While I have the door panel open, the electric lock/unlock doesn't work either.
Any pointers, part numbers would be appreciated.

 

[swshawaii]

May be simple as replacing the plastic striker bushings with a T-50 Torx socket @ 30 ft/lbs. Door striker bushings are a common wear item that will cause issues if ignored. When replacing, outline each striker position with a pencil or marker before loosening or removing. Replacing worn hinges or hinge pins is more involved, but replace the striker bushings first.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1746979569...d=&campid=5338413729&toolid=10001&mpt=7960261Failing body mounts can also affect door alignment. Inspect the foam body mounts below the "A" and "B" pillars if they haven't been replaced.

 

[swshawaii]

Regarding door locks. Is the locking issue with only one door? Do hear any buzzing or whirring sound when pushing the lock switches? Door lock issues usually come down to faulty lock actuator motors, door latches, or failed plastic latch rod connectors. Either way the door panel (s) must be removed.

Here's a good source for small parts that's a fraction of the price found at local AP stores.
https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Door-Panel-Retainers-Clips-Ford-p/pas1558-25.htm

 

[blert]

...
Failing body mounts can also affect door alignment. Inspect the foam body mounts below the "A" and "B" pillars if they haven't been replaced.

I had many door/window/lock problems before I replaced the disintegrated body mount bushings. If your truck needs them, and you plan on keeping it, then I would do this first. It may well solve many issues.

 

[swshawaii]

Agree blert regarding body mounts. Preventative maintenance and/or lack of use is another overlooked issue with door locks. Many use only the keyless entry to lock or unlock doors to later find the key cylinders frozen and not working. Happens often on the passenger side.

Periodically cleaning and lubing door latches and hinges is the other. Depending on environment, door latches are dust magnets. Flushing latches with WD-40 or a similar penetrant followed with white lithium spray works wonders and will prolong the life of other door lock components such as actuators.

 

[EddieS'04]

I have replaced all of my striker bushings. I used a piece of teflon tubing, the right OD and ID. Cut to length, then slice it open at an angle. That way you can open it and close it it. With out disturbing the striker position. My driver door has been fixed this way for 3 years. The OEM bushings are hard and deteriorate.
I would think a piece of poly tubing from the hardware would do the same. Teflon would last longer.
Steve is right about the wd40 and the white lithium spray lube. It also seems to make the latches quieter.

 

[Tim OLeary]

I was told that the body mount bushings might become an issue by a mechanic a few years ago. Only one door is malfunctioning. I will replace the door lock striker first and see if that helps. Of course the striker location needs to be recalibrated which seems critical. Thanks so much for the feedback.

 

[blert]

I was told that the body mount bushings might become an issue by a mechanic a few years ago. Only one door is malfunctioning. I will replace the door lock striker first and see if that helps. Of course the striker location needs to be recalibrated which seems critical. Thanks so much for the feedback.

Thing is, you might not need to do that at all if you were to do the body bushings first. Just sayin'.

 

[StephenL]

My money is on the door latch, the part inside the door. You have to take off the trim and plastic sheet to get at it. When you take it off you will note how fabulously complex it is, I think there are 5/6 different physical connections to it, and an electrical connection. When I bought my ST the central locking didn't work and the previous owner supplied a new actuator that he said he had never got around to fitting. In the end when I took the latch off the door there was a tiny broken spring inside it and that was the problem. New ones are available rockauto/amazon/fordparts.com
The aforementioned electrical connection is what sets the door light/interior light. That is likely to be the symptom, the cause being the latch itself.

Getting it on and off is not easy and there are some plastic guides I recall I had to buy, because the old plastic was brittle and they broke

The 5/6 connections are
- door actuator
-key lock
-inside handle
-outside handle
-inside lock by door handle (maybe)
-inside lock button

Striker and body mount bushing? I don't think so. Check your striker though, one of mine came loose and the door wouldn't close properly because of that, there will be a mark where it started, if it has moved, just line it back up with the dirt! You need a torx socket for that one.

 

[swshawaii]

^ IIRC, that tiny "mystery spring" that breaks inside latches only affects power lock operation. Hate to see the OP go through the PITA of replacing an overpriced door latch that doesn't fix the problem. Must say rear latches and actuators are MUCH more difficult than the front because the rear window run channels are not removable and space is even more confined.

Money saving info regarding lock actuators in the EF link below.
https://sporttrac.org/threads/passenger-door-power-lock-intermittently-works.122979/post-1041808

 

[Tim OLeary]

Thanks again for the follow-ups.
I will inspect the mounts when I change the oil later today.

Any suggestions about getting the complete mechanical hardware for the Prothane Mount Kit?
Once I start taking the old mounts off, I want to be prepared with all necessary bolts and disks and nuts, lock-tite, and yes, maybe even tap and die.

I also saw where it might be possible to lift the truck a little with the correct mounts. I don't what too radical or screw up the center of gravity. Thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks again.

 

[blert]

...
Any suggestions about getting the complete mechanical hardware for the Prothane Mount Kit?
Once I start taking the old mounts off, I want to be prepared with all necessary bolts and disks and nuts, lock-tite, and yes, maybe even tap and die.
...

Hopefully you won't need new hardware. A bit of cleanup with a wire brush was all I had to do.

Torch, vice-grips, magnet-on-a-stick, long socket extention(s). A helper is handy too but not necessary.

 

[swshawaii]

Only way to get the body mount metal "shells" is buy complete bushings or find at salvage yards.

Dorman has complete rubber (not foam) body mounts but they are pricey. Good thing is upper AND lower are included with each bushing.
2002 FORD EXPLORER SPORT TRAC 4.0L V6 Body Mount | RockAuto

 

[Tim OLeary]

I looked at a front bushing and it was dried out looking and cracked. The two behind that one were gone (rotted away to nothing). I didn't check out the back one or any others. Pretty much what I was expecting. The truck has 270,000 on the engine, and probably 70,000 on the transmission, so have I reached the point of diminishing returns?

I see there are bushing kits which will lift the truck three inches.
The door ajar light doesn't illuminate at all now. All I did was drive the truck up onto a couple of cement blocks so I could get under it to drain the oil and change the filter.
Thanks for the follow ups

 

[swshawaii]

Your call what "diminishing returns" are. If you're driving without body mounts it could be dangerous if you have to make a sudden maneuver because of the body shifting. Body lift kits only add height to existing body mounts. Check the condition of the upper and lower body mount metal shells in all EIGHT locations. If OK to reuse you're looking at the cost of the Prothane 6116 kit and your time using the right tools to do the job safely. Do NOT use hollow tile cement blocks to support the truck. They are known to explode without warning and kill. Use weight rated jack stands or at the very least solid wood blocks.

 

[Tim OLeary]

The safety issue hadn't occurred to me regarding the damaged body mounts.

I don't use cinder blocks with the voids, but solid concrete ones.
For working under the truck for the body mounts, I have a floor jack and jack stands.
Thanks for the valuable feedback.

 

[blert]

You stated above that at least one of the "A" position bushings is cracked. I suggest inspecting all of the bushings for cracking. Decide which side is worst and do that side first. Do only one side at a time! If "A" and "D" are good on one side but one is cracked or damaged on the other you take a big risk of the body shifting if one of the damaged bushings gives out when you are jacking the other side up.

 

[Tim OLeary]

I asked my repair shop (yes, I use a repair shop occassionally) about this repair and they said they would use Ford parts.

 

[swshawaii]

I don't think you want to use OEM body mounts, even if you can find them. I wouldn't use them again if they were free. At least the "A" and "B" pillar orange colored foam mounts.
https://www.explorerforum.com/forum...mount-bushings-w-hardware.473667/post-3721483
Replaced these (again) last week with the Daystar KF04015KV kevlar infused body mounts. All eight crumbled to the touch when removing. Had to cut off flared end of metal sleeve from the upper bushing caused by foam shrinkage and bottoming out on the lower bushing metal flange. Added two 2" OD flat washers used as spacers. Second pic without washers and third pic with washers.

 

[swshawaii]

Another brand of aftermarket body mounts I've never heard of or seen before.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283908462026?hash=item421a4355ca:g:NqYAAOSwx6pgzw-Y
Now there's the Prothane 6116, Daystar KF04015, and these.