2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac XLT 2wd 304,161 miles

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Evox

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I'll add a picture, but it's nothing special; it's a stock 2004 oxford white XLT, right down to the radio; I've modified nothing. I've owned it since new; its build date is January of '04.

I don't know what to say, except it has been a dependable truck.

Well, except for the instrument cluster, which gave me my first problem somewhere over 200,000 miles. The Speedometer stepper motor gave out. My theory is the speed sensor went bad first, and then the gears in the stepper motor wore out, but that's just a theory.

It still has its original timing chain cassettes, and its compression is good; that's probably because I never really pushed the truck. Except for replacing wear items and routine fluids, I've not done much except drive it. The truck has lived its entire life in the southeast, so corrosion isn't a problem.

The mistakes I've made have always involved trying to cut costs on parts.

For example, when the original alternate crapped the bed somewhere between 175k and 200k miles, I replaced it with an Advanced Auto "lifetime guaranteed" alternator, which, while cheap and easy, caused me headaches for a couple of years. I had to use that "lifetime guarantee" three times, killing two batteries along the way. That's a crappy dance. A bad alternator can kill a battery, and a bad battery can kill an alternator.

Had I to do it again, I would have spent a hundred or so dollars more and gone with a Motorcraft replacement. That's my primary advice, stick to quality parts. Yes, they cost more upfront, but they save you time and money in the long run. Every time I've tried to cut corners, I've regretted it. And that goes for any car or truck I've owned over the years.

The only thing wrong with it right now is its weeping oil from the rear main seal. Not enough to drip on my driveway or the garage floor, and certainly not enough to cause me to add oil between oil changes. But enough to annoy me any time I've been under the truck over the last couple of years.

I'm a little OCD when it comes to oil leaks.
 
that is a lot of miles and sounds like you have definitely got your moneys worth on that ride.
 
It's kind of a state of mind. Is the ST a million-mile truck? ...sure it is.

You'll just have to do stuff to it along the way. Right now, my truck on the open market is worth maybe a couple of thousand dollars to a stranger. But I know this truck. Eventually, something will require me to rebuild the engine, which will cost me a couple of thousand dollars. ...but not today.

Nothing that can go wrong on this truck now will cost me more than what people typically pay for a few months of car payments—... not to mention the depreciation cost.

Yes, my wife's new car is nice, but all in (depreciation, fuel, maintenance, etc.), we're paying roughly sixty cents a mile for her rig. I have to drive 30 miles to get to nowhere and then another 20 to get to somewhere from my home. It adds up.
 
the only few tracs i have seen for sale is 5 to 7 k and that is in bad shape but i agree with your analogy of cost and use of a newer vehicle that is mainly parked and sitting, oh and a magnet for door dings. a newer engine is a couple grand but that is so cheap compared to a engine in most vehicles these days.
 
the only few tracs i have seen for sale is 5 to 7 k and that is in bad shape but i agree with your analogy of cost and use of a newer vehicle that is mainly parked and sitting, oh and a magnet for door dings. a newer engine is a couple grand but that is so cheap compared to a engine in most vehicles these days.

The reason for the low estimate on mine is the mileage.

I would think over 300k miles would scare most people away from even looking at it if I offered it for sale at what it's worth to me. I think the average service life on the 4.0L SOHC is around 250k miles. Or, at least I think I remember reading that somewhere. So mine is on borrowed time. Driving it sanely, keeping up with the maintenance, and maybe a little luck has me where I am today. Personally, unless the timing chain guides give out on me, I think my engine has a lot of life in her. The compression is great; she still has the same amount of get-up and go she had when new. If I put her on a dyno, I bet there wouldn't be much lost HP or torque.

But a person would have to see my compression tests and drive the truck to get more comfortable with it. As you said, there are examples of 1st gen STs with a lot less mileage on the clock in the $5k-$10k range. So realistically, I'd have to advertise mine much lower than that even to get a bite.

So there comes the point when you're committed to your truck. It's worth a lot more to me than what someone would pay you for it. That's kind of where I'm at now. I know THIS truck. I am comfortable working on it. If you keep a car or truck long enough, it becomes part of you.

Today, a used car buyer looks at three variables when considering a vehicle, model, age, mileage, and asking price. That's the first cut. Then they will consider things like the vehicle's history. Since I've done all my own service since it went out of warranty, you'd find nothing if you run a CarFax on my truck.

I could probably advertise it for $3000 to maybe $3500 in this current market, and I'd get some interest from a few mechanically inclined buyers who want an ST. But if I asked $5k or more, people would pass right over my ad. ...and it's worth much more than that to me.
 
EVOX
I'm right there behind you at 240kMiles+,
doing my own maintenence,
& valuation on the vehicle.
It's ironic that most of the best maintained vehicles are kept that way by owners not dealerships, & Carfax totally misses on that.
 
EVOX
I'm right there behind you at 240kMiles+,
doing my own maintenence,
& valuation on the vehicle.
It's ironic that most of the best maintained vehicles are kept that way by owners not dealerships, & Carfax totally misses on that.

At this point, we're in the cull. The only STs that will be here in 2030 are those owned by enthusiasts. I have a 1989 Mercedes Benz 560SL and a 1995 E36 BMW (that I also bought new and my youngest daughter will be driving next year) that are in the same boat. The ONLY examples of these cars left are by people who like them and maintain them. The casual owners are gone.

Scotty Kilmore is wrong. Toyotas aren't the ONLY cars that will last half a million miles. Most cars and trucks can last that long; it just takes some work.

The calculus is different for everyone. Some people want to drive something and use it up and get rid of it. Others like Jay Leno like them and want to keep them going ...and you can.

An ST is a simple truck compared to today's offerings. There are two major electronic weaknesses, the instrument cluster board, and the PCM ...both repairable. Mechanically the 4.0L SOHC has timing chain problems, but hell, they can go a long time, as my 300k example proves. The engine itself is rebuildable, and the transmission is pretty solid. So what else can go wrong? The electronic components, but thankfully they're nothing like today's offerings. I bet my '04 ST can outlast my wife's Lexus. I'd hate to see the problems that one will develop in 17 years.

I like simple.

The ST is butt simple and repairable, and I think that's worth something.
 
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Have you had to replace the radiator?

No.

Off the top of my head, here is what I've replaced or rebuilt over the years.

Instrument cluster
The suspension (you can go cheap here, but don't. Use quality parts, or you may find yourself doing it all over again)
body bushings
speed sensor at the differential
Brake rotors
Compressor clutch
Thermostate housing and thermostat (although when I tested the old thermostat, it was still working, I already had the new thermostat, so I put it in)
Alternator (s) - (buy Motorcraft-you'll pay more, but in the end, it'll be worth it)
Serpentine belt
Valve cover gaskets
The lower oil pan gasket
Transmission filter and gasket
Differential fluid and gasket
EVAP pipe at the fuel tank
Passenger side rear brake caliper (my fault, I broke off the bleed valve, and I couldn't get that sucker removed) I just replaced the caliper. It was cheap and saved me time, frustration, and more mess)
PCV valve, Filters, and fluids
Spark plugs and wires
a couple of different electrical plugs which I broke over the years.
passenger heated seat switch.

... I probably forget some things and, of course, other wear items that aren't on the top of my head. But no, I have the original radiator.
 
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I did have to replace 2001 OEM radiator a year ago; right PlasticTank (hot side) split down to the drain.
Put in an AllAluminum 4Row.
 
I did have to replace 2001 OEM radiator a year ago; right PlasticTank (hot side) split down to the drain.
Put in an AllAluminum 4Row.
Radiators almost never go bad, on any vehicle. That was just a bad-luck-of-the-draw part. If you keep the fluid changed, that's a million-mile-wear part. Sorry you had bad luck there.

If you keep fluids changed on internally-wore items, they (motor and tranny) will last longer than you will, on most items.

As Evox said: Buy right, the first time, on the replacement parts; they're wear-items, and don't skimp on them. You have to replace them every 60-100K miles. Replace them with proper parts, and any car, these Explorers (mine's an '08 V8 SportTrac, my wife's is an '06 XLT V6 Explorer) will last.

The instrument-cluster issues people speak of on these Explorers (XLT, Sport Trac, etc), I'm finding are fixed by some front-end work. My wife's car was doing the skid-mark-of-death on the instrument cluster, did some front-end work (Ball-joints, tie-rods, etc), after 125K of mileage, yeah, those front-end parts have to be replaced. Once replaced, new tires, and an alignment, and all of those codes that were coming up on the dashboard are now gone. She now has a V-6 4X4 that I can trust in any weather. Now I just have to get my ST to be the same. :)
 
Wow, front end suspension work fixed your instrument cluster?
 
The instrument-cluster issues people speak of on these Explorers (XLT, Sport Trac, etc), I'm finding are fixed by some front-end work. My wife's car was doing the skid-mark-of-death on the instrument cluster, did some front-end work (Ball-joints, tie-rods, etc), after 125K of mileage, yeah, those front-end parts have to be replaced. Once replaced, new tires, and an alignment, and all of those codes that were coming up on the dashboard are now gone. She now has a V-6 4X4 that I can trust in any weather. Now I just have to get my ST to be the same. :)
Same question as @DILLARD000.

2004-05 Sport Trac with digital ODO's are known to have intermittent cluster issues. First time I've heard of front suspension work "fixing" the cluster problems. BTW, what is the "skid mark of death"?
 
To try to answer your question, front suspension that's jumping around/bumping around more than it should be, if it's wiring related, can certainly cause bad electrical issues (if something isn't touching as it should be, bumping around could cause it to touch where it doesn't all the time).

It's probably luck-of-the-draw, but I had to do a fair bit of suspension work on her '06 to get it 'up-to-snuff' again. AT the same time, her alternator went out. THAT is likely why she was getting the crazy instrument cluster issues. Once the charging system was 'fixed' (new alternator, new battery, etc), the charging issues are gone.

BUT! The traction-control (skid-mark-of-death) issues were fixed when we fixed the front-suspension issues. Ball joints, tie rods, I want to say it was about $1K of work/parts, but it fixed her traction control issues. All stuff I can't easily fix in my driveway/requires alignment tools. We just happened to have that, AND a bad alternator, show up at the same time. I replaced the alternator, and none of the charging issues have resurfaced. Charging issues have nothing to due with the traction-control issues. Those were fixed by properly fixing the front suspension components.

Sorry to have conflated the two; we had two problems come up at the same time. They required separate fixes. But a new alternator fixed part of the cluster issue; it required suspension work to fix the other part of the cluster issue (one without the other wouldn't have fixed the 'skid-mark-of-death' cluster fail issue fixed.)
 
My 04 Sport Trac is rare exception in regards to the transmission. To the best of my knowledge all Sport Tracs from 01 to 05 had 5 speed transmissions. When I hit 30,000 miles I brought it in for a fluid and filter change. When the owner quoted me a cost of $160. I asked why it was so much and he explained it was because I didn't have a transmission dip stick. I told him mine did. He argued with me so I offered to bet him $60 that I had the dip stick. He smiled and said he would be glad to add an extra $60 to the bill. As I was waiting the owner came in and said it was going to take longer than expected because he had to get a different filter. When I asked why, he told me I had a F150 4 speed tranny and he had never seen that transmission in a Sport Trac. He honored the bet and charged me an even $100. That 4 speed explains the crappy mileage I'm getting compared to what other Sport Trac owners claimed they were getting. At 70 mph the tach reads 2600 rpms.
 
My 04 Sport Trac is rare exception in regards to the transmission. To the best of my knowledge all Sport Tracs from 01 to 05 had 5 speed transmissions. When I hit 30,000 miles I brought it in for a fluid and filter change. When the owner quoted me a cost of $160. I asked why it was so much and he explained it was because I didn't have a transmission dip stick. I told him mine did. He argued with me so I offered to bet him $60 that I had the dip stick. He smiled and said he would be glad to add an extra $60 to the bill. As I was waiting the owner came in and said it was going to take longer than expected because he had to get a different filter. When I asked why, he told me I had a F150 4 speed tranny and he had never seen that transmission in a Sport Trac. He honored the bet and charged me an even $100. That 4 speed explains the crappy mileage I'm getting compared to what other Sport Trac owners claimed they were getting. At 70 mph the tach reads 2600 rpms.
Mine has a dip stick too. But really can't believe it has a 4 speed tranny.
 
@Massman
Yep, believe both you & your mechanic enjoy a gambling bet,
but 5r55e tranny was only factory automatic option in 2001~2005 SportTrac's.
Unless your SportTrac was highly customized & rebuilt by a previous owner?
 
I had ordered an 05 Sport Trac and shortly after my dealer called me and offered a deal on one of two 04s he had. He said there was a $3000 rebate from Ford for previous owners and he would knock another $3000 of list. He also told me the feds were giving $2000 of for E-85 vehicles. I also remember Ford was having trouble with the transmissions that were made in France for the 04s. I had no idea what transmission I had until the aforementioned fluid and filter change. I also remember other Sport Trac owners discussing the mpg they were getting and wondering why I wasn't getting close to that mileage. So it appears mine is a 4 speed. When entering a highway I can actually feel it shift 3 times as it hits overdrive and the tach drops a bit. Out of curiosity, what does your tach read at 70? Also, not sure if I mentioned, mine is a 4X4.
 
Pretty sure your '04 was only available in 5-speed auto. But, you can read the same on the internet. Don't want to tell you you're wrong, but readying into it says that you are.
 
Pretty sure your '04 was only available in 5-speed auto. But, you can read the same on the internet. Don't want to tell you you're wrong, but readying into it says that you are.
Unless, you have a manual-transmission, which was available then, it appears. But if auto, I think you have the same as all that were available.

And I think you'd know if you have a manual, LOL! If you aren't aware, then you're beyond help :p
 

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