A day shouldn't turn out like this

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Randy Hinebaugh

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Joined
May 24, 2004
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Location
Richmond, VA
After living with a short squeal for the past two months on morning startup, my yesterday began with the squal getting worse and not stopping, I could also smell a little burning rubber from the belt. Figuring it's either the tensioner or the idler pulley making all the noise, I bought both and a new belt. After work I started the swap. Upon taking the belt off, the tensioner pulley and the idler pulleys both turned freely and smoothly. the alternator, on the other hand, was chirping on every rotation. After a few phone calls, Autozone had a replacement. Drove to Autozone, and the one in the box was wrong, not even close. They would have to transfer one from another store, be there 10:00 Saturday. OK, I'll come back then.



Saturday rolls in, after 10 I go to autozone and pick up alternator. Take it home, go to install, and bolt holes don't line up. Wrong one. By this time, Ford counter was open, so I ment to get one from there, take it home, and it goes in great. Problem solved. Have a buddy help me install belt, all the belts are lined up (or so I thought), start engine and there is still a squeal and now a cllicking noise. After looking around for 30 seconds to see what that could be, I notice down on the crank pulley the belt is not on the pulley, but it is riding on somethin. I quickly shut off the engine. Somehow the crank pulley slid back toward the engine, the belt slipped off, and was riding on the rubber underneath.



http://www.mysporttrac.com/~library/13173/IMG_1970.JPG



If you look close at the pic, you can see where the belt cut grooves in the rubber. How can this happen? Is this how they fail normally? I've never seen on fail before. I had noticed a little bit of rubber sticking out in front of the pulley when I put the belt on, but never having pain that close attention, I didn't know it wasn't normal.



Another trip to the dealer, and I had another crank pulley. They said this is a replacement. Looks nothing like the one that's on it. See pic. Anyone see one like this?



http://www.mysporttrac.com/~library/13173/IMG_1971.JPG



Upon closer inspection, the plastic ring on the back has a small crack, couldn't tell if it was a mold split or an actual crack. I have to go back to pick up a new $5 crank bolt they said had to be changed, maybe I will take it back to ask. i tried to take a pic of it.



http://www.mysporttrac.com/~library/13173/IMG_1976.JPG



Now I have to gather some tools and figure out how things come apart. I read through Todd Z's writeup on his website, kind of intimidating but hopefully a guy that's been tinkering with cars for 20 years and has a Mechanical Engineering degree can muddle through it. One question, though, what's the problem with turning the engine a little when taking off the crank pulley bolt? Is it just that you would be taking it off counterclockwise, opposite rotation of the engine?
 
Yeah, The rubber failed on the harmonic ballancer.... It happens..... Nothing specific causes it either, They do let go....



The plastic ring crack is common... EVERY one I took off had that crack.... A little epoxy and they are all back on the truck...



The crank bolt does NOT need to be replaced, They recommend it because it is a torque specific bolt, But I just torque them to 90 not 85 like the book says and your good to go..



Hope that helps..



Todd Z
 
That's comforting. At least mine went in my neighborhood. I-95 through Philly is one scary place to drive through, I feel for you getting stranded there.
 
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