Ball joint ? and info

[Casey B]

I started to notice my truck pulling to the left a little. The tires/wheels are rotated regularly and it is not time. I decided to swap the fronts for now and check over everything.



With the Trac in the air I gave each front tire the top - bottom wiggle. Sure enough there is movement on both. Also when I took the wheels off I noticed a severe amount of cupping on the outsides. Shocks and alignment done within the last 12K.



How can you determine whether it is upper or lower ball joints that are bad? I do have a problem with noise with the wheels turned all the way to the left or right. Example: I back out of a driveway that has a dropoff. With the wheels cut all the way, when the truck bounces there is a deep grinding of metal.



Shock bushings appear to be fine and the bearings were repacked when I put new rotors on. Still under ESP. Any suggestions? Thanks!

 

[shawn stonbraker 2]

If i remember right, there is a certain way to check them. I'm not sure if you jack the wheel up and check or you jack the wheel up then put a jackstand under the a-arm and put the vehicle weight onto it (with the tire still off the ground) then check. It's been ALONG time since mechanic school. Hope someone will chime in on that one to clearify.



If still under ESP and they are covered, let them do it. If it was me though (I'm still under ESP) I take it to a local and have them put on "greasable" ones. If you get the ones from Ford, you will have the same problem down the road. With the greasable ones, they will last longer. Just my 2 cents.



What size tires do you have on? I have 245/75's on mine and they will make that sound when turned hard left/right. It's probably your tires rubbing the front swaybar when the suspension flexes. That would be my guess.

 

[Sean M 2]

I just replaced my upper ball joints driver's side this weekend. The way I figured out whether it was upper or lowers was to jack up the ST. Dosent matter from where. Then grabbing the tire from underneath try to pull it towards you while pushing in on the top. In my case I could visibly see the movement in the upper ball joint when looking at it. The lower one was acting as a pivot point for the movement. Just try to isolate the movement and this will determine what joint is bad. In your case it almost sounds like it could be both. Also, it wasnt all that hard to install myself, but be sure to buy greaseable ones as replacements. The sealed ones just dont seem to last as long. Moog makes a very good product.

 

[Casey B]

stonemiser- My tires are stock size, 255/75/16. It sounds like metal grinding on metal and it is REALLY loud when it happens.



I do have a $100 deductible. There is a couple of other things for them to look at as well.



Does the dealer replace with greasable joints? Anyone had the dealer do them?





Anyone had timing chain problems a 2nd time around? Mine is rattling again and it was fixed by Ford about 4 months ago.

 

[J Piroth]

C,



I have the same noise issue with my 01. I'll be checking this post to see if anyone has an answer to it. Hadn't thought of the ball joints, I figured it was just due to the crap OEM shocks bottoming out. I'm planning to replace those soon, along with the tires.

 

[shawn stonbraker 2]

C, if you go to the dealer they will replace them with OEM ball joints. Which means the sealed type, so later down the road when your warrenty is done they will probably need replaced. The Greasable ones are not priced to high and to get them put on wouldn't be to bad if you have a local garage put them on. (the labor will be way lower)



As for the noise when hitting a bump when turning, Get under the front and see if you can see any rub markings. Look at the front swaybar and frame areas. Also look at the inner fender surround for signs. If it's that bad there should be some kind of sign of the rubbing. Get back to us with anything you find. We may be able to narrow it down.



What kind of oil filter are you using? I had the timing chain noise and my squeeler, I mean dealer told me it was bacause I was using Autolite filters instead of Motorcraft filters. I've never had the TC changed so I can't help you much on that one except to say, I know I've seen numerous posts from people who have had it changed, only to have the noise come back a short while later.

 

[Michael Hale]

These are also covered with the two higher tier Ford Extended Warranties (maybe the lesser one as well).

 

[Casey B]

I have the Premium ESP so I know it's covered. I have a $100 deductable as well. The ball joints, timing chain (again), and the steering shudder (again, never resolved) is reason enough for me to go back in.