BRAKE JOB FROM HELL

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Nov 11, 2004
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1st i changed the pads....but got a bad squeak that was constant and annoying...finely realized it was because the stock pads are smaller than the rotor and had created a lip around the outside of the rotor...so i change the rotors...i would brake at 60mph and would get this terrible vibration almost scary...so i take a chisel and hammer and bust off the lip on the old rotors and slap those back on...no vibration but when i come to a stop the brakes grab and release like abs...so 3rd i get new calipers and new rotors again...now it doesn't grab at slow speeds but the vibration is back but not as bad as before...after spending $250 i'm about to give up and take it to a mechanic- any help is apprectiated
 
I have always taken it to the dealer, and never, never had I ever heard a squeak. And had upgraded to the '03 pads. I have a '02 and the '03 are a little bigger
 
I have a squeel in mine after upgrading to "Drilled and Slotted" rotors. It's probably because I went with Semimetallic pads. Gonna live with it till they are worn and go with Ceramic next time. I read they sqeel to but at a pitch that's not to be heard. Correct me if I'm wrong anybody. Philip, are your tires "cupped"? That can cause vibration. Maybe take the old ones in and get them "turned". Most places (Advance Auto, etc) only charge $10-$15 to turn them. Also they may be able to check the other new ones for worpage.;)
 
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Phillip,

If you have a ridge or groove in the brake rotor, you get the rotors turned on a brake lathe. You don't atttack them with a hammer and chisel!! :wacko:



You did not do a brake job, You did a job on your brakes...a hatchet job. :blink:



...Rich
 
Yep, never beat on rotors. You can cause stress fractures that you cant see. Then if they get hot enough during service, they can shatter....
 
I agree with Rich. However, as I read it, you have the new rotors back on and you have a vibration. If everything is square, went together square etc etc etc, then you have defective new rotors. Either return them or go get them turned and re-install them.
 
I took mine to the stealership and they charge me 195.00 for the front and they are squeeking like hell .Now i'm taking them back for the 3rd time for the squeek and they're saying it's the metal in the pads but it doesn't matter what is, i know it is annoying:wacko:
 
yeah i have the new ones on....i might go get my old ones turned and see if that helps...i don't think it's anything with my tires b/c the trac would vibrate all the time...it only vibrates when i brake
 
I wouldn't go with ceramic pads (stonemeiser). I currently have them in my trac (morse-ceramics) and though it's not constant, at slower speeds they frequently have some squeaking. Moreover, they supposedly don't release heat well which adds to rotor warpage. If you are using drilled and slotted rotors, I suggest you talk to the manufacturer and see what they recommend using with those rotors. I would suspect, Carbon-Metallics will be your best bet. Produce a considerable amount of dust, but I had those prior to the ceramics and never had a squeak.
 
I have Kevlar-Metallic pads and no squeek, vibration, or brake dust along with cross drilled -slotted rotors! Not sure why you are having so much trouble. I got both the pads and rotors off Ebay. Hope this helps. Later on, Riley:cool:
 
Squeaking has nothing to do with the type of friction material. Squeaking brakes are caused by the pads vibrating at a resonance frequency that creates the high pitched sound. The only way to eliminate the squealing is to eliminate the pad vibrations.



Better quality pads will come with stick-on metal or fiber isolation pads that are stuck to the back of the metal backing plate of the brake pads. These isolation pads deaden or isolate the pad vibrations from transfering to the caliper and rotor where the vibrations are amplified into the audible sound. Years ago, Pads often came with a tube of high temperature silicone that was spread on the back of the pads that served the same purpose. You can still buy this high temperature silicone and use it if you do not have the isolation pads on your existing pads.



Also, the pads have tabs/ears that slide on the caliper frame and provide the "Floating" caliper feature. This sliding surface on the caliper must be smooth and free of burrs and nicks that can cause the pads to bind. You should always add a dab of high temperature brake grease to the slide surface to prevent binding and squeaking.



Another feature of better quality pads is to have a beveled leading and trailing edge to the friction material which prevents any irregularities in the rotor from catching on the front edges of the brake pads.



...Rich

 
I always use the antisqueek stuff when I do brakes. I never have squeeking problems.



A funny memory here.... many moons ago I worked at Whitlock Auto, and a customer brought back a set of pads asking for a refund. He had put the antisqueek stuff on the pad surface itself. DOH!
 

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