brake job

[Bobby Manhas]

so i'm confident enough that i'm going to attempt both the back/front brakes myself



but is there any advice that you can give me, i know you put anti seize wherever there is metal to metal contact, but any other advice that you guys may have would be greatly appreciated.



anything i need to do with the pistons in the caliper or any other adivce would be greatly appreciarted, this is one of my first brake jobs that i'm doing bymyself, usually there is somebody there watching

 

[Tom Schindler]

Honestly, the problem with using anti-seize is it can wash away. Anti-seize is great for bolts, but I would not use it for lubricating anything. I use a stuff called <B>Castle brake Life</B>.



It is a silicone based lubricant much like Dielectric grease. It doesn't wash away. I use it on all my braking systems. Dad and I did the brakes on his 1993 T-Bird and the brakes lasted nearly 70,000 miles without one problem with the system and the only reason we replaced the pads was because he had a wheel bearing go bad and while everything was apart...well you know.





Tom

 

[Bobby Manhas]

where on the brakes do i use it, the same palce as anti seize?



thanks in advance.

 

[Tom Schindler]

I use it on the slides. I use the Anti-Seize on the mating surface of the rotor to the hub, the lug nuts, and the mounting bolts. The brake life I use it on the slides.



On my Escort GT, the slides are bolts that have a rubber bushing on both sides. The caliper slids on the bolts. I can not remember what the front calipers are like on the Trac. I play with so many braking systems since we have so many cars at my house, so I don't remember that well.



As a general rule is this. If it is a slide, use the brake life. If it is threaded, use anti-seize. Also, putting the anti-seize on mating surfaces where metal touches metal, like the rotor to the hub.



I will check out the projects section to get a better look at the front brakes.





Tom

 

[Tom Schindler]

See the boxed areas in blue? That is the part I put the brake Life on. See how rusty it looks? You might want to even use some scotch drite to clean the bolt if it is rusty. I also use some where the pad touches the caliper mounting bracket.



[Broken External Image]:





Tom

 

[shawn stonbraker 2]

pinda, also you can get the brake grease from any auto part store. I got mine from the front counter (on a display stand) for like 97 cents. It's a high temp grease for the back of the pads and anywhere there is moving parts. Like stated before, antisieze will be gone the first time you wash or drive in the rain.



The other advice I can give is just take your time. Look the system over and make sure there isn't any leaks or damaged parts as you are working on it.



Are you going to get the rotors turned while doing this? May be a good idea. Doesn't usually cost much either.

 

[john main]

Couple more do's and dont's...do not push the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor, do not take them both apart at the same time (you can use the intact one for reference).

This one is a debatable one... I bleed fluid at the caliper (thru the bleed screew) while adjusting the pistons out for the new pads, this greatly reduces the amount of dirty/stagnant fluid going back into the master cylinder/resevoir, then causing it to fail. I then flush clean fluid to each wheel. Or you can just squeeze the old fluid back into the master cylinder(easier)...many shops do it this way.

Have the rotors turned, new rotors do not have much extra metal to remove so it may be necessary to buy new ones.

Get a good feel for the brake pedal before you do the job so you can compare it afterwards. It should not feel spoungy before or after.

KEEP EVERYTHING CLEAN! This is very importantant if you are repacking the front wheel

bearing (4x2). Also buy a can of brake Clean to get your greasy fingerprints off the rotor.

Always buy good quality parts. Some "Lifetime" warranties just mean your going to have a lifetime of troubles with these cheaply built Chinesse parts.

There are probably a 100 more things that I have learned the hard way, but I will not bore you with them all.

Did I mention using a torque wrench?

 

[Tom Schindler]

Also, A wise thing to do would be to invest in some Speedbleeders. They will make your life easier when changing pads or bleeding the system.





Tom