Changing Hubs and Rotors

[blksn8k]

I had purchased a pair of Timken front hub/bearing assemblies and a pair of EBC rotors several months ago with the anticipation that at over 100k miles I would need to replace these parts eventually. The ST now has about 121k miles on it and the driver side hub finally started getting a little loud and I also started to get a little shudder in the brakes which I attribute to warped rotors. However, I am hardly disappointed with the service from these parts considering that the hubs and rotors are still the original parts. As a mater of fact, the rotors still had the sheet metal clips on the wheel studs.

Anyway, I replaced the driver side parts today and plan to do the passenger side tomorrow. I am also rotating the tires while I have everything apart. The only surprise was the fact that I needed to buy another torque wrench as mine was only good for 150 ft lbs and the hub nut requires 185 ft lbs. All told I spent about two hours on it today which seems pretty reasonable considering that this was my first experience with changing this type of hub. It definitely helps to have the proper tools, especially impact wrenches and hammers but the greatest help was watching the attached video beforehand.

I was surprised that the original hub had no noticeable play and did not feel rough when turned by hand but it was definitely getting loud.

 

[blksn8k]

Did the passenger side today. It took a little longer as the old hub assembly was a little more stubborn coming out. You basically have to beat the thing out of there and they can be a bear to break loose. I assume the number of miles and Ohio road salt had something to do with that as well. Nice not to have any more growling coming from the front end. :driving:

 

[RedRanger 7]

When I did mine, I was having trouble beating it too, I found an old cold chisel I made years ago in hi school and surprisingly came off pretty easily compared to earlier with a flat screwdriver. :haveabeer:

 

[blksn8k]

I thought of trying that but didn't want to damage the flat surface of the spindle where the hub mounts. I ended up turning the wheel from side to side to get a better angle to be able to get a harder hit with the sledge hammer on the backside of the hub flange. Once it broke loose on one side I turned the wheel so I could get a better angle from the opposite side. At that point the hub flange becomes sacrificial as it is being replaced anyway. The spindle is not. :grin: