Crimes Against Grilling

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By Emily Thelin, Food & Wine



"A lot of people marinate raw food in barbecue sauce, because they're thinking, Oh, I want barbecued chicken," says grilling expert Elizabeth Karmel. The problem is that sauce often contains sugar, which burns quickly, resulting in a lackluster version of the classic dish. Here, the Hill Country Barbecue chef identifies more ways to ruin a cookout, and how to avoid those mistakes.



1. COOKING WITHOUT HEATING THE GRILL Just like you'd heat a saut pan before you put food in it, it's very important to preheat the grill to cook any foods properly. Preheating also sterilizes the grill by burning off any residue.



2. LEAVING THE LID OPEN You would never bake a cake with the oven door open, right? Just like preheating is essential to proper cooking, so is temperature control while grilling.



3. IGNORING THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN DIRECT AND INDIRECT HEAT I've got a couple of good rules of thumb: If something takes 20 minutes or less to cook, use direct heat. If it takes more than 20 minutes, use indirect. And if you don't know how long something takes to cook: The bigger it is, the denser it is, the heavier it is, the longer it takes.



4. INCINERATING YOUR FOOD The hotter the fire does not mean the better you'll cook your food. Most food is delicate and needs a gentle heat after you sear it. You're going to get a better result and coax the love out of the food by treating it gently and with respect.



5. SLATHERING FOOD EARLY AND OFTEN WITH SAUCE A lot of people marinate raw food in barbecue sauce, because they're thinking, "Oh, I want barbecued chicken." Sugar burns quickly. You want to make sure that the inside of your food is done and juicy at the same time that the outside is browned. It takes 45 to 60 minutes to grill bone-in chicken pieces and only 5 to 10 minutes for sweet barbecue sauce to set and caramelize. So brush your food with sauce at the end of the cooking time.



6. OILING THE GRILL GRATES This is one of my mottos: "Oil the food, not the grates." A thin layer of oil on the food holds in moisture. Many grilling authors tell people to take a rag or a paper towel, dip it in oil and coat the cooking grates of your lit grill with it. Number one, that is literally a torch waiting to be lit; that's a big fire hazard. Number two, oil has a very low smoking point; you only have to oil the grates once to know that the oil will burn instantly.



7. USING SUPER LONG TONGS People think the longer the tongs are the better, but the truth is the longer the tongs, the less control you have. Our wrists aren't that strong. If the tongs splay open too much (and a lot of them open to 12 inches or more), you can get a cramp from having to hold them closed. I use tongs like an extension of my hand. The best are 12-inch locking chef's tongs that don't open more than six inches.



8. PLACING FISH DIRECTLY ON THE GRILL When fish skin scorches on the grill it can give the fish that awful fishy flavor (just think if you opened a capsule of cod liver oil and burned it). One my favorite ways to make salmon is to take a deboned, skin-on side of salmon and cook it at 325F indirectly on a wet, water-soaked cedar plank. I like that temperature because it's really important to me to get a nice crispiness-- good color on the outside, still juicy and perfectly cooked on the inside. Because it's sitting on the wood, you can very easily slide your spatula between the flesh and the skin, and it'll easily come off, leaving the skin on the board.



9. COOKING RIBS UNTIL THEY FALL APART Pick up the ribs and give it a bend: If it's nice and flexible but not springy or rubbery, then it's generally done. If it falls apart immediately, then it's probably overcooked.



10. BUYING THE WRONG CUT FOR BRISKET A lot of people cook only the flat or the lean part of brisket, which often comes out tough and dry. You always want to cook the whole muscle. A cross-section of a brisket would reveal three parts: Two pieces of muscle (one called the flat or lean, and one called the deckle or point) and a fat cap. People should go to their butcher or their grocery store and say, "I want a whole, untrimmed brisket." The butcher will say, "Oh, no you don't! Here, you want this nice trimmed brisket." You tell the butcher you know what you're talking about, and that you want the whole fat cap on it, because that will keep the meat moist and protected during the long, slow cooking time.

 
Knew 'em and abide by all. The only one I kinda stray from is oiling the grates. I don't actually oil them, but cut an onion in half and rub down the grates with it. I can't say for certain it really does anything but I never miss an opportunity to use as much sweet Vidalia onions I can. It's nice being less than an hour from the source of the world's greatest onions.



If you haven't had a Vidalia onion, toss one on the grill next time. Planning on it Sunday. Wrap an onion in aluminum foil and toss in some butter (I don't cook by measurements, sorry...I guess "to taste" would be the appropriate measurement), wrap it up and grill over indirect heat until soft.
 
#1 crime against grilling. Using the marinade you had the chicken in to baste the chicken with while its cooking right up until you put it on a plate and hand it to me! Really!? You want me to eat that? I've seen this at many cook outs throughout my life. Ever heard of salmonella? :throwup: I'm a professional chef and have been so for 20 something years and here to let you know this is a big no-no. I don't expect everyone to know everything there is about safe sanitation practices/food borne illnesses, (like using the same tongs that have raw chicken on them and you use them to pull the done chicken off the grill) but please use some common sense when serving others. ESPECIALLY OLDER FOLKS AND CHILDREN! Thanks. Ever drive home with just a little tummy ache after eating at someones home or a restaurant? That's food poisoning. I could go on for hours about this( I've taught many classes on food safety as well) I see a health code violation in every food establishment I've ever been to. No, you aren't going to get sick every time you go out to eat or to your buddy's house. But something definitely to be aware of. I actually tried to call out sick(flu) years ago at a restaurant I was the sous chef at and the GM told me I had to come in to help with the dinner "rush" or else. I didn't. When I returned a few days later I told him that was the most irresponsible thing I had ever heard. He apologized for his ignorance after I schooled him.
 
Mark,



Yeah, that's a good one. If you think you want to use the marinade as a sauce then whip up two batches or buy two bottles, one for the meat to marinade in (and throw away those leftovers) and another for the grilling brush-on.



A few more grilling no-no's:



11. USE THE RIGHT UTENSIL. Using tongs when you should use a spatula or a fork, and vice-versa. Don't use a fork to flip steaks, or to flip dogs/brats, etc. It pierces the skin/exterior and lets out juices. Essentially, a good rule of thumb is that if it is a patty or a delicate filet then use a spatula, everything else, us tongs.



12. NEVER PRESS THE MEAT. I see people grill burgers and press the juices out of them...argh!



13. ADJUST HEAT AS NEEDED. Regulate the heat (especially for you gas grillers) throughout the cooking process. This is especially important for meats with lots of fat (chicken skin, burgers, etc). Start with a higher heat at first until you sear the outside, then back down the heat to cook more slowly. If done right, this can avoid flare ups.
 
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