Denso Spark Plugs

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Craig Childs

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Hey guys



I looked for a topic like this in the search, but I couldn't find what I was looking for. I am wondering why spark plugs that aren't Motorcraft or (the other brand that I forgot the name of) are the main spark plugs that will work well with the ignition system. Call me naive, but aren't pretty much all spark plugs basically the same? I was looking at getting the Screamin' Demon coil and the wires as well, and obviously I will have to either gap my old plugs or get new ones that are correctly gapped.



So, I am wondering if I can get new spark plugs that are correctly gapped that will work with the Trac. I have read that some aftermarket plugs don't cooperate with our ignition systems, but I don't exactly know what that means. What happens with the ignition system that shouldn't be happening? Are there knocks, misfirings or something like that?



All the specs for the new plugs are the same as the OE ones I have in now, the reach, heat rating, thread and hex size are all the same. The only differences are the gap and the metal of the electrode.



The link below is just what I want to install, I haven't done any real price searching yet.



And I apologize if this topic is a repeat.



Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.



 
well, and obviously I will have to either gap my old plugs or get new ones that are correctly gapped.
Click to expand...



Nope, not true, I have the autolites in my st at the stock gap.



ignition system that shouldn't be happening? Are there knocks, mis-firings or something like that?
Click to expand...



Most of the times , small misfires that you cant hear or see but the truck can run poorly and get bad MPG.



All the specs for the new plugs are the same as the OE ones I have in now, the reach, heat rating, thread and hex size are all the same. The only differences are the gap and the metal of the electrode.
Click to expand...



Yes but many members here have run them in the ST and had to remove them.



Why do the work twice and pay all that $$ for no gains at all...



I run the Autolites in my 03 ST and motorcraft in my 004. With 60K on the 03 and still making 205+ HP at the rear wheels..



Todd Z
 
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Craig you dont buy plugd gaped to your spec. You gap them to your spec before install. One reason some high dollar, high performance plugs are a hit miss. It is the heat range. The stock motorcraft or autolite will be heat range specific. Example is if it is a 22, that is what the stock plug will be. High performance example may be, 20 to 24. There is no horse power gain on most stock engines with high performance plugs. Just a bite out of your wallet. The sceamen demon coil on the stock plugs will give you all the performace you will get on our motors. Make sure you run a qaulity plug wire.
 
Set the gap to whatever it says it should be set to on the label under the hood.



Don't forget the never-sieze and dielectric compound.



Be sure to use a torque wrench and tighten them to spec.



Index them like Cayman does if you really want peak performance.
 
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Gavin, the gap can be opened wider than stock if he uses the screamen semon coil.

Craig, I would cut that price in half and go for the platinum. Power and life will be the same for less $$.
 
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No spark plug is going to "give" you HP. No spark plug is going to give you better reliability. No sparkplug is going to give you better economy.



Why spend the extra money that will not perform better than the OE plug? Seriously.



Why spend $6.00 or more on a plug that will do nothing more than a 4 dollar plug does?



It will not last longer. It will not perform better.



I have seen on many occasions aftermarket plugs made a car run worse and get terrible gas mileage.



I have seen cars with Bosch Platinum plugs, Splitfire, and +4's acually cause a car to misfire. The whole time with the misfire, the owners throw money away to fix the problem. Afterall, it could not be the plugs, they are brand new.



Fact is, the iridium plugs sound exotic. Fact is, copper flows more electricity than all but one metal. Does anyone know what that metal is? It is not platinum. It is not iridium. It is not nickel.



Anyone know?





Tom
 
As dingo said, silver is the best conduction. It is at 105% on the IACS. Copper is 100%. Gold is less than that.





Tom
 
The easiest way to jump a gap is from one very sharp edge to another. The smaller the gap the easier it is to jump. The wider the spark the better the ignition of the gas. The wider the gap the higher the voltage required to bridge it. The sharper the electrode, the less voltage required. There are two main ways to improve the spark. One have a higher output voltage coil. All things being equal, it will more reliably jump the gap. The other way is to reduce the voltage required is to ensure the the the anode and cathode have a good sharp edge to jump to/from.





Plugs wear because there is some erosion which tends to round off an edges of the electrodes. A harder and higher temperature material will last longer. Iridium is much harder than copper and will last erode slower. Nippon Densos have a very small electrode which makes it very easy to jump from.





IMHO

Sometimes in the attempt to have the best of all worlds we will increase the coil voltage AND decrease the voltage to jump the gap. Sometimes this doesn't work well. I have tried using a Jacobs DIS electronic system and DENSO plugs in the TRAC with poor results. The extra voltage and lower requirements of the plug caused premature firing of the lugs. It has to be Densos with stock coil or Jacobs with stock copper core plugs.



Let's not lose track of what we are trying to do, ignite the air/fuel mixture. The stock system does a decent job of this. We want to optimize the size and intensity of the spark. When we reach a good consistent ignition of the mixture there is no good reason to go hotter or wider in my opinion.



Don't forget the higher the secondary voltage the more critical is the insulation requirement of your wires and components.
 

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