David Vinson
Member
The box comes complete with the following parts: flanged headpipe (not pictured), Gibson Superflow muffler, tailpipe, turn-out pipe for side exit, chrome exhaust tip (in small box), and bag of needed hardware to complete installation.
I would suggest removing the right sway bar link and removing the lower shock retaining bolt to allow the shock to be moved out of the way as needed. The sway bar link is attached with an 18mm bolt at the top and an 18mm nut at the bottom (as I recall). The shock bolt is 15mm and the nut is 18mm. Next, jack the rear passenger side up by the frame and put a jack stand in place to hold it. Be sure to chock the tires if you plan to do any jacking.
Next is to loosen the stock exhaust system. This is done by removing the two 15mm bolts that hold the stock system on at the flange. The nuts are made so that there is no need for a wrench to hold them while loosening or tightening. It is advisable to soak these bolts down with penetrating oil to ease removal.
Next is to unfasten all of the hangers of the stock exhaust system. There are 3 of these hangers, 2 just behind the muffler and one at the rear supporting the tip. I have found that the easiest way for me to do this is with a pair of channel locks and WD40. Spray the open ends of the hangers with WD40 to lubricate the rubber grommets. Use a pair of channel locks with one jaw next to the metal hanger at the center of the rubber grommet and the other jaw on the tip of the hanger on the other side. Now all you need to do is squeeze. The metal hanger should just slide through. This technique is illustrated to the right. Ignore the screwdriver in the picture as it was not necessary for this procedure.
After the headpipe is disconnected and the hangers are disconnected, the stock exhaust system can be removed all in one piece. You will need to move the entire system toward the rear of the vehicle so that the headpipe can clear one of the crossmembers. It will take quite a bit of twisting and turning to get the system out, but it can be done. I prefer to retain the stock system because you never know what might happen (maybe I'll tell that story at a later time). After the stock system is removed, you can begin installing the Gibson system a piece at a time. First is to install the replacement headpipe. Install it over the crossmember and bolt it into place. Do not tighten the flange bolts down yet because you will need to be able to twist the pipes around toward the end of completion so that everything lines up.
Connect the Superflow muffler to the headpipe with a supplied clamp. Do not tighten the clamp. The muffler I received had a sticker labeling which end was the inlet. In the event that yours isn't labeled, it can be determined this way. Look into each opening of the muffler. Looking into the muffler from one end you will see holes and from the other side you will see smooth bumps. The end with the holes is the inlet.
Put the clamp with built in hangers onto the outlet pipe of the muffler and push the hangers through the rubber grommets. Twist the tailpipe section into place and insert into the outlet of the muffler.
Push the tailpipe hanger through the corresponding rubber grommet at the rear of the vehicle. If you prefer, go ahead and attach the turn-out pipe for side exit at this point with one of the supplied clamps.
Now is the time when you must do a lot of twisting and turning of pipes and the muffler to get it all lined up properly. Some of the clamps may need to be tightened incrementally in order to keep pipes from shifting. After lining everything up to the best of my ability, my turn-out pipe stuck too far out the side of the vehicle for my tastes. I decided to go without it and I clamped the tip directly to the tailpipe for a straight-out-the-back setup. It does not protrude beyond the bumper, giving it a somewhat stealthy look.
I would suggest removing the right sway bar link and removing the lower shock retaining bolt to allow the shock to be moved out of the way as needed. The sway bar link is attached with an 18mm bolt at the top and an 18mm nut at the bottom (as I recall). The shock bolt is 15mm and the nut is 18mm. Next, jack the rear passenger side up by the frame and put a jack stand in place to hold it. Be sure to chock the tires if you plan to do any jacking.
Next is to loosen the stock exhaust system. This is done by removing the two 15mm bolts that hold the stock system on at the flange. The nuts are made so that there is no need for a wrench to hold them while loosening or tightening. It is advisable to soak these bolts down with penetrating oil to ease removal.
Next is to unfasten all of the hangers of the stock exhaust system. There are 3 of these hangers, 2 just behind the muffler and one at the rear supporting the tip. I have found that the easiest way for me to do this is with a pair of channel locks and WD40. Spray the open ends of the hangers with WD40 to lubricate the rubber grommets. Use a pair of channel locks with one jaw next to the metal hanger at the center of the rubber grommet and the other jaw on the tip of the hanger on the other side. Now all you need to do is squeeze. The metal hanger should just slide through. This technique is illustrated to the right. Ignore the screwdriver in the picture as it was not necessary for this procedure.
After the headpipe is disconnected and the hangers are disconnected, the stock exhaust system can be removed all in one piece. You will need to move the entire system toward the rear of the vehicle so that the headpipe can clear one of the crossmembers. It will take quite a bit of twisting and turning to get the system out, but it can be done. I prefer to retain the stock system because you never know what might happen (maybe I'll tell that story at a later time). After the stock system is removed, you can begin installing the Gibson system a piece at a time. First is to install the replacement headpipe. Install it over the crossmember and bolt it into place. Do not tighten the flange bolts down yet because you will need to be able to twist the pipes around toward the end of completion so that everything lines up.
Connect the Superflow muffler to the headpipe with a supplied clamp. Do not tighten the clamp. The muffler I received had a sticker labeling which end was the inlet. In the event that yours isn't labeled, it can be determined this way. Look into each opening of the muffler. Looking into the muffler from one end you will see holes and from the other side you will see smooth bumps. The end with the holes is the inlet.
Put the clamp with built in hangers onto the outlet pipe of the muffler and push the hangers through the rubber grommets. Twist the tailpipe section into place and insert into the outlet of the muffler.
Push the tailpipe hanger through the corresponding rubber grommet at the rear of the vehicle. If you prefer, go ahead and attach the turn-out pipe for side exit at this point with one of the supplied clamps.
Now is the time when you must do a lot of twisting and turning of pipes and the muffler to get it all lined up properly. Some of the clamps may need to be tightened incrementally in order to keep pipes from shifting. After lining everything up to the best of my ability, my turn-out pipe stuck too far out the side of the vehicle for my tastes. I decided to go without it and I clamped the tip directly to the tailpipe for a straight-out-the-back setup. It does not protrude beyond the bumper, giving it a somewhat stealthy look.
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