Drum brakes

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blert

Well-Known Member
1st Gen Owner
2 wheel drive
2001 job 2
Joined
Oct 2, 2006
Messages
612
Reaction score
306
Location
Titusville, FL
What engine do you have?
V6 engine
What year is your Sport Trac?
2001
What Generation is your Sport Trac?
1st Gen Owner
Does shoe material matter back here? There are a handful of choices on RockAuto, one states 'metallic', one 'organic', the rest don't specify other than OEM spec. Only a few $$ difference between them all. What would you put in? What did it originally have?

I have owned this truck for 15 years, has 120K miles. Can't remember ever doing the rear drums.
 
IMO, a quality semi-metallic. Not the most $$ IMO $$. Front disc do most of the braking. With that many miles and never worked on. I would buy new wheel cylinders. Also the the inside parking brake cable. Not the outside main one.
That small cable will stretch over time. The small cable is responsible to auto adjust, when you set the park brake. Or when you apply the brakes in reverse.
You might have to buy the hardware kit for it.
 
Did my 2001 rear drums a couple years ago; suprised by how little wear compared to front discs.
I'd choose either SemiMet or Ceramic Shoes that generate less dust than Metalic.
 
IMO, a quality semi-metallic. Not the most $$ IMO $$. Front disc do most of the braking. With that many miles and never worked on. I would buy new wheel cylinders. Also the the inside parking brake cable. Not the outside main one.
That small cable will stretch over time. The small cable is responsible to auto adjust, when you set the park brake. Or when you apply the brakes in reverse.
You might have to buy the hardware kit for it.
The only one that states that it is semi-metallic is listed as an 'economy' part, made by PowerStop. Got an opinion of that companies parts?

Once the storms clear up (three days now) I'm going to pull the drums and inspect what's up inside there. If I decide to replace the drums too I'm thinking about the Dynamic Friction drums. Got an opinion of that company?

All the hardware bits-n-bobs will be replaced. Thanks for reminding me about the cylinders.
 
Just did my friends 01.... Raybestos drums and semi shoes. Got the complete Carlson hardware kit. Prefect install and zero noise or issues... Happy with that stuff. And I cant believe its been over 15 years since I did drum brakes. hehehhee
 
Looks like I will be going Raybestos on all four corners.
Checking a few items before I order a crap-ton of parts, and there is a lull in the storms, and found the rear brake hard lines to the drums are rusted up at the cylinders. Going to try and soak them but I don't think they are going to survive. Did a search and came up only with bend-your-own. Any other options that you may know about? Is there another model or year I could search for?
 
Yep, 2001 was the first+last year for rear drum brakes on the ExST.
2002+later ExSTs have rear discs.
Not sure what years the Ranger, MazdaB & other Explorer models switch over?


CORRECTION:
2001 was the 1st year & 2002 was the last year for BrakeRearDrums on the Ford ExST.
2003~2011 Ford ExSTs have BrakeRearDiscs.
Not sure what years other Explorer\Ranger\MazdaB\... models switched over?
 
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Guess I will be bending my own then. Not hard, I know, I just don't like buying speciality tools that might get used twice-maybe.
 
Yep, 2001 was the first+last year for rear drum brakes on the ExST.
2002+later ExSTs have rear discs.
Nope, 2002 also has drums.
I had to replace the lines across the axle to the rear drums on my '01 ST in Dec '19. There are pre-made lines for rear disc brakes, but not rear drums. They are different. I used a type of brake line that's easy to bend by hand. I was leery because I'd never used it before, but it works fine. Came with ends already on the lines, but you'll need an adapter for the end that goes into the wheel cylinder. I'll see if I posted the line length and adapter size on another site and report back later.
 
Didn't take as long to find the info as I expected. I used 2 40" NiCop lines with the fittings already on them. 40" is a little longer than necessary, but it was only available in 30 and 40" lengths. 36" would be almost perfect if it was available. Very easy to work with. No extra tools needed if you're careful as you make the bends. The fittings that come on the lines fit perfectly in the fitting above the center of the rear end housing where the line from the front connects to the lines to each side. The fitting that goes into the backing plate/brake cylinder is a size too small and you need Dorman # 785-432D adapters to join the line and the brake cylinder. These adapters are designed for this purpose and work perfectly.
 
Thanks Duane.
Measured them both at 36" and 34". Can't find 34" so will be going with 36" for both. Thanks for the heads up on the adaptor.
 
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