Hello from Iraq, need help with a front diff ??

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John Beegle 2

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Hey there from Iraq. I need some help with a front diff question I have. I have a 2004 S/T, I know the front diff is a Dana 35. I want to use an Auburn ECTED locker in the front. Well last night I called 4 Wheel Parts (yes from Iraq, and yes it was a pain to do) and talked to a Driveline Tec to ask about useing the locker in the front diff. Well here is were it got comfusing, this Tec told me that the Dana 35 my S/T was different from a normal Dana 35 and that there is no known locker unit, posi unit, spool, or anything that is on the market that will work in the 2004 S/T. Now to me that doesn't make any sence... if it is a Dana 35 then anything for a Dana 35 should work, right? I understand the axle set might be different, but the guts should all be the same. My question is has anyone replaced and upgraded their front diff unit? If so with what, and was there any problems? Does any one know if the Auburn ECTED locker for a Dana 35 will work? Any and all help and input will be greatfull...

Thanks from the big sand box!

 
There are two different Dana 35's. The IFS unit in Explorers/Rangers/Durangos is somewhat different. 4 Wheel Parts is slightly incorrect though, as a Powertrax No-Slip p/n 92-0435-2702 will fit although I have been told it is out of production. Some of the mail order places may still have them though.

There is one guy in the thread who said he installed a Powertrax Lock-Rite p/n LR2311.

Also I have been told, but cannot verify, that Reider Racing can machine a Detroit True Trac limited-slip (it is like the Torsens on your military Hummers) to fit for only a few dollars extra.

Linky-linky-----V
 
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Discussed this today with the folks at Tri County Gear. The opinion there is that the aluminum housing isn't strong enough to withstand the forces of a locker.



Take it for what it's worth (to you).
 
I'm sure every wheeler with this front end has an opinion... I think the Aluminum diff is probably strong enough to hold up for a while with the kind of power the 4.0 has, but I probably wouldn't trust the cv's to hold up for very long with an automatic locker, any type of aggressive tire near or exceeding 35". An interesting point on the note of front lockers (which are always engaged) is the loss of turning radius one gets when driving with one engaged.



Recently I went wheeling in Ouray, CO with some jeeps and 1st gen explorers which were locked in the front (and a significantly shorter wheelbase) and they had to really work at making tight turns and/or getting through switchbacks because their locked front end wants to pull the vehicle straight rather than a tight turn. (FWIW; this is the reason most of the hard core guys will run a selectable locker and disengage it whenever they need to make tighter turns :) :cool: Hope this sheds a little info :)
 
Very true Becker. If I were to buy a front diff, for what I do I'd get the modified True Trac limited-slip from Reider. Even on the older, and stronger, Ranger TTB, if you have a locker it's handy thing to know how to swap an axle shaft on the trail.

Wheeled once with a guy who had an insanely built Jeep, locked 9" Ford axles from Currie rear AND front, and even he broke a front axle shaft.

On an SLA Ford, best to stay to 33" tires, no bigger.
 
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