HELP: Mechanic Question

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Tom Schindler

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1st Gen Owner
V6 Engine
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This is for a 2002 VW New Beatle.



Quick rundown...



Right door switch (intergrated into the door latch for a big buck repair) went bad. Door light would stay on killing the battery. Got one out of a yard. Pulled the door apart (SUCKED!!!...effing German crap!!!) and get the latch apart. I test the new one and everything is fine; locks and unlocks as it should. Put it back together. Open and close door numerous times. The door opens and closes fine and lights go on and off.



Lock the power locks and unlock them. Door will not open. Pull up on the know, but still wont open. We now have a stupid car with an effed up door to deal with.



How can I get the door open to get it apart? Anyone deal with this S4!T before?



Would like to get this taken care of before the snow flies.



The vehicle belongs to a friends daughter that is serving in the Navy. The car will be heading to Pascagoula, MS this winter and we need to get this thing road worthy before long.



Any help is appreciated. Trading it in for something reliable, like a a Ford with 300,000 miles is not an option. She works for the Navy. They don't pay near enough to afford anything.:angry:





Tom
 
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Could it be the rod that goes to the latch for the door lock button is missing/bent/out of adjustment? Ya know, where the switch would activate, but the "message" doesn't reach the latch? Just a thought. Bob
 
Bob,



Without being able to open the door, I am screwed. How would one get the door open to fix this?





Tom
 
Not really familair with VW but most doors have the panel that unscrew and remove just under the pull handle. You could remove that panel (if applicable) and pull on the rod inside the door. Works in thoery but like I said I'm not sure on the VW cars.
 
I had this issue with a vehicle that forced me to slice the panel from left to right to gain access...



There was no other way to go about it. Once sliced, I was able to get the job done. I then used a straight piece of stainless to cover my slice up and all was well..



 
Now that I think of it I had this problem on my 1974 Chevelle and had to break the interior panel off to gain access to the rod to fix it.
 
Tom,,,

I recalled another solution I have done in the past.



It was a domestic car, but maybe you can use the info.



I removed the rear inner-fender panel. From there, I could see the stud of the latching bolt that the latch actually grabs to keeo the door closed.



I drilled a smaller hole in the center of the stud followed by a larger bit until I was removing all but the threads. Once I did that last hole, I was able to simply open the door. I replaced the latch bolt and all was good to go..
 




If I understand what you are saying, the door is locked and you cannot open it. Ask LaRue but would you be able unlock the door using a "slim jim". I have used them on many vehicles but don't really know if it can be done on a VW.



Gerry Mac
 
More than likely the lock cable is too tight, this prevents the lock from being disengaged, unfortunately I don't know how you are going to get it apart and I can't really even see how you could remove the door subframe without the door being open.

I had this happen to me once years ago but I was fortunate enough to have the door panel off (was on some GM pos) so it wasn't a big deal but ever since then I check ever aspect of door operation with the door open...it has saved me more than once...good luck
 
Tom, this doesn't help much but here is what the inside looks like. You may be able to trip the latch from inside. Looking for a tool, be right back.



[Broken External Image]:
 
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Ok that foes help, from the diagram it looks like you can take off the pull latch cover and pull on the rod itself to open the door. You could use a slim jim for the door lock pin as well just be careful not to yank the wires. Good luck. Let us know what happens. :haveabeer:
 
Here is all I have on a opening tool. Just have to try and catch the latch bottom. I know this for the lock but I have opened a few imports by trying to catch the bottom of the latch and release the door.



[Broken External Image]:
 
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You guys would have to see a door on one of these to understand the situation he is in. Even if he were to get the interior door panel off of the car the door has a "subframe" bolted to it that everything is bolted to, this has to be unbolted from the door and also the window and also the latch on the door jamb has to be unbolted along with a bolt that has to be removed for the blank lock cylinder to come out that is also located in the door jamb...if you can't get teh door open this is an extremely difficult operation.



If I understand it the door locks work, I am guessing that the problem lies within the latch adn the door lock cable adjustment, if so then the issue is internal to teh latch and no slim jim is gonna help with this.



try having someone try to open the door from the inside while you "lovingly tap" on the outer door handle. You may be able to jar things aroound enough to trip the lock back into position so the door can be opened.
 
The door opened up today. I tore everything apart and looked it over. I know what I did wrong on the inside handle. I put everything together and it is working fine.



Thanks for all your help.





Tom
 
So how did you get the door open adn what did you find wrong??
Click to expand...



My friend got it open. He somehow pushed on the door and puled the handle. He felt some type of clunk and pulled the handle again. The door opened. Go figure.



On the inside handle, when I originaly did the job, I put the cable look through the hole on the handle, but in my haste and the impatience of my friend, I forgot to secure the shield into its holder. When I shut the door a couple of times to test it, it poped loose.



As for the outside handle, I am not sure when the issue was. It could have been something with the inside cable, but I really don't know. I compared its operation the old one that had a faulty switch. They were identical.



Either way, I got it fixed. Now the car needs tires and I may have to build a headlight wiring harness that is shorted out and the car should be good to go.



There was an issue with the Right side DRL. The light was out and he took it to the dealer. They replaced the bulb and explained how you need an ASE certified mechanic to do it because the fender needs removed. (bull$4!t!!!) I pulled the light assembly (very easy, but limited room) and pulled the cover off the back. The wiring harnes looks jerry rigged. Looks like there is a straight short between the ground and positive for the DRL/headlights on the right side.





Tom
 

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