bitbang3r
Member
I have a 2008 Sport Trac whose PCM/ECU has been in a death spiral for the past year (occasional malfunctions -> more frequent malfunctions -> dysfunctional more often than not). Before I replace it outright (and have to pay someone to program a new/used one), I want to open it up and see whether it's likely to just be one or more bad/dying electrolytic capacitors (overwhelmingly likely to BE the problem, and easy to fix if it is).
Assuming I can figure out how to GET it opened up. It's glued/sealed shut.
If there's a video somewhere on Youtube that shows how to do it, I haven't found it yet... all the Ford PCM-related videos seem to start with the PCM case already open. I "get" the general idea (use heat to soften the glue/sealant, and somehow pry the edges apart), but the devil's in the details, especially when heat is involved... I obviously don't want to melt or warp the plastic connectors, and have no idea just how much heat it actually takes to soften up the sealant/glue, or what range of temperatures falls between "the minimum temperature it takes to soften it up" and "the maximum temperature you can use without risk of melting/deforming the plastic parts".
Likewise, what do I need to buy in order to RE-seal it when I'm done? Repairing it obviously won't do me a lot of good if I can't seal it up again, and water/condensation destroys it 3 months later.
Thanks!
Assuming I can figure out how to GET it opened up. It's glued/sealed shut.
If there's a video somewhere on Youtube that shows how to do it, I haven't found it yet... all the Ford PCM-related videos seem to start with the PCM case already open. I "get" the general idea (use heat to soften the glue/sealant, and somehow pry the edges apart), but the devil's in the details, especially when heat is involved... I obviously don't want to melt or warp the plastic connectors, and have no idea just how much heat it actually takes to soften up the sealant/glue, or what range of temperatures falls between "the minimum temperature it takes to soften it up" and "the maximum temperature you can use without risk of melting/deforming the plastic parts".
Likewise, what do I need to buy in order to RE-seal it when I'm done? Repairing it obviously won't do me a lot of good if I can't seal it up again, and water/condensation destroys it 3 months later.
Thanks!