Hydraulic Chain Tensioner and oil restrictor - looking for advise

[Steve Brothers]

Hello!

I'm working on a '01 Sport Trac 4WD with a V6 SOHC Job 1 engine, and about 120K miles. Laundry list includes replacing upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, replacing OEM plastic thermostat housing with Austekk housing from Zabteck, replacing timing chain tensioners, replacing EGR valve, and replacing valve cover gaskets.

I have the death rattle at cold start-up sometimes, especially if the truck had sat for a few days, so I know it was time for the tensioners to be replaced AGAIN. While I was in there, I decided to check to see if the "oil pressure restrictor" had been installed per Ford Campaign #00M12. Since I had bought the truck used in 2005, I did not know the service history. Sure enough, there was a restrictor installed in the oil gallery. I had another restrictor that I had purchased as part of a kit from Melling (Part No. BT5587), in case I needed it. I measured both of the oil restrictors and they are different sizes, and I am wondering which one might be better. I thought I would bounce it off the forum to see what you think.

Part Barrel Diameter Tip Diameter Comments

Old OEM? 6.8 mm 3 mm This was in the engine

Melling 6.3 mm 2.6 mm Came in Mulling BT5587 Kit, purchased a couple of years ago


As you can see, the newer Melling part is a bit smaller in diameter both at the barrel and tip. I am not sure if this would change the oil pressure enough to make a difference, or what the impact would be. So, does anyone have thoughts about which one I should use, and why? I don't want to just guess without some discussion. Otherwise I might lie awake at night and worry, HAHA.

One more comment - I have some wires running right over the top of the lower thermostat housing. They come from the wire raceway on top of the block to the lower front of the engine. I am guessing it goes to the crankshaft position sensor, but don't know because I have never looked for it. Anyone else have this wire routing? There is no slack, and it makes working with the thermostat housing a pain. Part of me says cut the wires and route them around the housing, but that would be more work. Thoughts?

So far, no broken bolts, etc. But I have not got the EGR off yet - PB Blaster for a few days first before I get serious and put some muscle into it.

Thanks,

Steve

 

[DILLARD000]

Have here the 2001 SportTracJob2;
different "LongBlock" IntakeManifold, ValveCovers, OilFilter,...; same V6~4.0L~SOHC "ShortBlock"
Below is a pic with dimensions of the FactoryOE OilRestrictor\Reducer I pulled several years ago
with tweezers (think the kids game "Operation") from galley feeding LeftFront TimingTensioner;
for inspecting+cleaning with CarbSpray then re-installed; had larger diam you've noted above, works fine.
I suspect this part acts more like a 1WayHeartValve than a Reducer\Restrictor,
to hold some pressure+volume of oil as a reserve in that galley way.
Your judgement call; unless its obviously cracked\broken.
It does not wear significantly, so 20yr+ FactoryOE should be ok.
Have now changed several pairs of these TimingTensioners; I've gotten a habit of
spraying CarbCleaner down those OilGalleys to help clear any sludge,
then once Tensioners are installed & confirmed good, do an Oil+Filter change.
Click here for more info on these Tensioners.
Hope this helps.

 

[carl beasley]

Awesome info. Your link is priceless. Thank you very much.

 

[Heli Coil]

The way I understand the TimingTensioner is you dont wait to hear the TimingTensioner you
change before you hear it. Other wise its to late. I bought a STrac a few years ago and after
reading on the net a few items about this ....changed before I heard. If you have 100,000 change.
So I changed the TimingTensioner when I got the Sport Trac...So anyone out their that has a
100K plus and has not changed the TimingTensioner do so at once while you hear nothing.

 

[carl beasley]

I read all your link, I think, and the use of the restrictor escapes me. Why was it done? My Trac is a July 2001 build. Hearing an occasional start up rattle. thanks for info. Carl

 

[DILLARD000]

Again. I believe its real purpose is a 1way valve to hold some volume+pressure of oil for that left front tensioner. Best to do GasPedalToFloor cold crank for a few seconds before starting engine when its 12+ hours cold.

 

[Heli Coil]

The way I understand the TimingTensioner is you dont wait to hear the TimingTensioner you
change before you hear it. Other wise its to late. I bought a STrac a few years ago and after
reading on the net a few items about this ....changed before I heard. If you have 100,000 change.
So I changed the TimingTensioner when I got the Sport Trac...So anyone out their that has a
100K plus and has not changed the TimingTensioner do so at once while you hear nothing.

I explained in the post above you do the TimingTensioner before the rattle...Once you hear it its to late most likely.......unless by some strange luck......but you can still do the TimingTensioner.....or their will be major events....happening............

 

[Todd Z]

Or the 4.0 is JUNK and doing it all right, at 125k on my 2010 mine let the front timing components shatter.
took off from a light and BOOM !!!!
Luckily it was the front only and no internal damage.
I did the timing parts, and traded it.... Its now in IL being driven by someone there.....I wish them luck with it.