I hate these brakes!!!!

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V

V6 Viking

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My god....do the brakes on these trucks suck! I have to tell you that when these rotors warp they're awful....so I get new rotors (old ones were cut to minimum) thinking that it'll be better...no such luck....1000 miles later and the truck feels like it's falling apart.



Does everyone else have these same issues? I used all raybestos parts, and I've been doing my own brakes for 15 years.



Any suggestions? I've actually considered not buying another ford because of how poorly the brakes feel in this truck.



Any input is welcome. Thanks.



-Matt
 
I would have to say the opposite completely...



Before the ST I owned a Doge Dakota, THAT WAS BAD - I got it NEW in 97, by 2004, I changed the brakes atleast 10-15 times.



Ive changed the brakes on my ST once, since ive owned it. (2 Years) No wobbling or anything, just simply worn pads.



I am hard as heck on brakes.





 
Mine's got 46K on it. I've had it since 28K. Same pads and rotors, no shaking, stops great.
 
Me, on the other hand, replaced the firs set of pads at 14k miles, then again (this time with rotors) at 28k, this time with Bendix SUV brand, so far so good, but it's been only 10k miles, and I'm also hard on the brakes.
 
Over 125,000 miles. Original rotors and rear shoes. Second set of front pads, turned the rotors once.



I am also on my second set of those so called crappy Goodyears. :D
 
I replaced mine at @ 22k with Ford replacement parts, and I've replaced the front pads again at @65k. I've got 85k on it now... I'm not overly hard on the brakes, I never use 'em. I've got the 100 mile commute between my houses down pat, and can do almost the entire trip through the mountains without kicking off the cruise control!
 
Worn brakes are typically the drivers error. I have 33K on my original brakes and are still good. The only problem I've ever had with brakes is when I was young plus a led foot doesn't help.
 
Replace rotors with Napa rotors and on my second set of PFC carbon metallic pads. No squeaking, no warping. If you did them yourself, did you tighten the lugs in a star pattern? If not this may be part of the problem, as well as torque specs for the lugs.
 
No problems with my brakes. I have an '03 with 35,000 miles and the pads still look like new. I don't have a bit of shake or vibration in my brake pedal.



Are you torquing your wheel lugs properly. Not following the torquing procedure and specification is what warps rotors.
 
Being that you have a 01 with drum breaks, I almost bet the rears are not truly adjusted 100% and your over working the fronts.....

I beat the heck out of mine and I have no issues with the Ford pads and rotors..

Todd Z
 
The wife has about 34,000 and the brakes still look good not any problems with them. The rear's look new still. I find a LOT of people ride there brakes and that is very hard on them. Bill
 
mines an '04...abs discs all around. AWESOME braking capability! No probs at all. I'm with Todd...you're probably mostly using the front brakes The so called "anti-lock" rear drum brakes all truck makes had for soooo long were a joke. They are supposed to be self adjusting, but only if you use your parking brake regularly...and who does that...? And to say to heck with all Ford products over one bad brake job is silly...but to each his own I guess
 
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:cool:

No problem with mine except the rotors are made of garbage steel. I replaced the brake pads and turned the rotors for the first time at about 40k. Next time I will have to replace the rotors. I do not like the way they look. Although they work fine..
 
Todd,

I disagree that the problem lies with the rear drum brakes. If the rear brakes were the cause, why would they stop vibrating for a 1K miles after the front rotors where changed.



Constatly warped rotors are indicative of an overheating condition often caused by dragging brake pads due to a sticking caliper. For rotors to warp in 1K miles indicates that the brakes were not broke-in properly, but more likely caused by sticking calipers.



v6viking,

Who replaced the front rotors? Where the new rotors checked for runout? They can be warped or not properly inline when they are received from the factory. It's always good to check them and make a trueing cut on a brake lathe if necessary.



I would also be curious as to the condition of the old pads and if you replaced them when you changed rotors?



...Rich
 
Rich asks...
why would they stop vibrating for a 1K miles after the front rotors where changed.
Click to expand...



V6 wrote,

....1000 miles later and the truck feels like it's falling apart
Click to expand...



Umm... Not the same to me...

seriously, Rich you feeling ok???.. Don't seem to be on the ball lately????

Todd Z
 
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Now you guys have me concerned. 2005 with disc's all around of course. Just purchased new 20" rims and low profile Eagle GT tires. The installer used an impact gun to put my wheels on and he did go in a criss cross pattern while the truck was in the air but then he lowered it to the ground and used a standard lug wrench to put the final touches on the lugs. Once again in a criss cross pattern. He did not use a torque wrench during any of this. Should I be concerned? :huh:
 
Now you guys have me concerned. 2005 with disc's all around of course. Just purchased new 20" rims and low profile Eagle GT tires. The installer used an impact gun to put my wheels on and he did go in a criss cross pattern while the truck was in the air but then he lowered it to the ground and used a standard lug wrench to put the final touches on the lugs. Once again in a criss cross pattern. He did not use a torque wrench during any of this. Should I be concerned? :huh:
 
No, It sounds like he just used the impact to snug them on and then hand tightened them at the end...



The neg here is you can damage the rim or threads of the stud using an impact, But i doubt it, and by him hand tightening them he could easily go over the 90 ft lbs or so.... I know When i lean on the cross wrench I will tighten the lugs tighter than by any impact gun...



Just get a torque wrench and check them....



The warping of the rotor is really only on 2wd vehicles and on the front.... For you to warp the rotor on a 4wd the studs are mounted into the axle or hub assembly, Your not going to bend that by not criss crossing the lugs...

Todd Z

 

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