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SportTrac Discussion
Fluids: Oil, ATF, Coolant, etc.
Is it to early for synthetic oil in my Fusion?
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<blockquote data-quote="Jim Eichman" data-source="post: 645916" data-attributes="member: 64351"><p>The factory fill is a synthetic blend usually a Gp III and Gp II basestock. Ford has been sourcing out of Conoco/Phillips so the probabilities are that it is the same formulation as Motorcraft oil. The factory filter, if grey, is made by Champion. FWIW, the blends will turn in the lowest wear metals. My preference is one with moly which is an anti-wear agent and a great barrier lube. Pennzoil and Havoline have a bunch, about 60% the content of the grossly overpriced Redline. And don't buy into the advertizing hype that a synthetic oil will make the engine last longer- they won't. There is no more lubricity in any OTC synthetic oil over the cheapest dino. The advantages of a synthetic basestocks are better artic temperture pumping rates and holding up better (Gp IV+) for extended oil changes. Pick a brand that you like, use the correct recommended viscosity, look for the API seal of certification, sit back and enjoy the ride.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p> Another note for you. Most folks are changing oil at around 3500 miles. I have not seen an analysis in years for a 3500 mile service interval that the oil didn't have at least 50%+ life still left. I would suggest changing at 5000 miles regardless of the brand or type of oil used. Othewise you are throwing money away. The new engines are so much more cleaner than the engines of the 90's that the oil does not take the beating that the older, dirty engines dished out to the fluids. The newer clean burning technology is showing more benefits than just better fuel mileage.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jim Eichman, post: 645916, member: 64351"] The factory fill is a synthetic blend usually a Gp III and Gp II basestock. Ford has been sourcing out of Conoco/Phillips so the probabilities are that it is the same formulation as Motorcraft oil. The factory filter, if grey, is made by Champion. FWIW, the blends will turn in the lowest wear metals. My preference is one with moly which is an anti-wear agent and a great barrier lube. Pennzoil and Havoline have a bunch, about 60% the content of the grossly overpriced Redline. And don't buy into the advertizing hype that a synthetic oil will make the engine last longer- they won't. There is no more lubricity in any OTC synthetic oil over the cheapest dino. The advantages of a synthetic basestocks are better artic temperture pumping rates and holding up better (Gp IV+) for extended oil changes. Pick a brand that you like, use the correct recommended viscosity, look for the API seal of certification, sit back and enjoy the ride. Another note for you. Most folks are changing oil at around 3500 miles. I have not seen an analysis in years for a 3500 mile service interval that the oil didn't have at least 50%+ life still left. I would suggest changing at 5000 miles regardless of the brand or type of oil used. Othewise you are throwing money away. The new engines are so much more cleaner than the engines of the 90's that the oil does not take the beating that the older, dirty engines dished out to the fluids. The newer clean burning technology is showing more benefits than just better fuel mileage. [/QUOTE]
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SportTrac Discussion
Fluids: Oil, ATF, Coolant, etc.
Is it to early for synthetic oil in my Fusion?
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