It's Good To Have The Trac Back

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Fudged Undies

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Well, finally got the trac back. Have been dealing with the head gaskets. Nope, didn't finish the job, positioning of the engine made it too difficult to remove the head from the motor. I expected this but was hoping I would find a way around it. Anyhow spoke to a couple of mechanics about finising the job, (pulling the motor and finishing the passenger side) they declined and stated they would waste their time. They would replace the motor with a used one as it would be cheaper, easier and faster.



Well, found a motor with low miles (salvage yard stated 5100) and did the swap. Engine runs strong and but if the mileage is correct then I'm back in the breakin period.



Anyhow it is throwing a code - <font color=red>P1120 TP Sensor Out Of Range Low (Ratch Too Low)</font> - so I'm looking for possible resolutions. One guy is telling me that the TB is the cause and I need to put the old one on. The old one (original motor) is a ToddZ TB and it never threw a code. Guy says that since this is a newer motor there is a difference, but I doubt it. I'll swap them tomorrow but if I didn't have the old one, what would the potential solution for this be?



Also throwing a <font color=red>P1000 OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete</font> which I'm sure will go away soon.



Oh, and as is typical around here when we have issues I need give BIG THANKS to ToddZ and George C for helping me out with a tool issue. They went well beyond helping a guy they really don't know.



THANKS GUYS.
 
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Did you switch the TPS ??? or the whole throttle body ??



That is the code you get when you break the TPS sensor.... IT is NOT the throttle body, they are the same....



As far as the p1000 number, thats normal....



Great to hear it is back in business !!!



Todd Z
 
Yeah Todd, that's the conclusion I'm coming to. Found something similar elsewhere. The TB is the one that came with the motor, I want it runnig properly before I mess with it. The TPS is the one from the newer motor. I'll put the old one on, this weekend and we'll see. The guy was pretty insistent that there is a difference in the motors between '02 and '04. I explained to him but I guess since he couldn't solve the problem himself he couldn't accept the parts were the same.





Rodger, what seals? I don't recall that.
 
From a previous post:

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I was doing a search on the Ford 5-speed manual tranny, and came across this.

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Mazda 5 Speed Manual Transmission

Many Explorer/Navajo owners have went with synthetic transmission fluid hoping to extend the life of the transmission. I use Mobil 1 Synthetic fluid. Synthetic fluid handles high temperatures and pressures better then conventional fluids.



Another preventive maintenance tip is to replace the rubber plugs in the shift rail bores with steel freeze plugs. The rubber plugs have a tendency to dry up and leak, and/or fall out. The plugs are located in the transmission top cover and face towards the rear of the truck. The part numbers for the metal plugs are: Dana #219-3052 or Dorman #555-108, you will need 3 plugs to do the job.



The hydraulic clutch, slave cylinder/throwout bearing is another item you should pay close attention to. After time, the slave cylinder fails to release the clutch completely. If you are having trouble shifting into 1st and reverse while stationary or if your truck creeps forward with the clutch pedal depressed the slave cylinder/throwout bearing is probably at fault. Unfortunately there is no easy fix here as the transmission must be removed to replace the combination slave cylinder and throwout bearing.

 
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I love this ingenius slave design. I replaced my clutch last year as well as the master and slave and every so often, I still get the "creep" with the clutch completely engaged.



Never saw the thing with the rubber plugs. Will have to look into it.
 
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