Lower Ball Joint HELL.

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James Neville

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Diboll, TX
I would just like to state that I am in no way a mechanic, as was proven to me over the last two days trying in vain to replace my lower ball joints.









My ST is an '03 rwd xlt, which I have done a lot of mantenance to myself, upper ball joints and control arms, new shocks, sway bar links, inner and outer tie rods. But these lower ball joints are something else.



I've taken everything off of the knuckle except I CAN NOT get the knuckle/spindle off of the ball joint thread.



I've rented all the tools I (think?) I need. I've got the press to get the B/J out and the new one in, I have a pickle fork that I've been trying to separate them with. When I got tired of that I went to Harbor Freight and bought their B/J separator and swiftly broke it within 5 minutes. (not surprised with a $20 tool) I've beaten the thread from underneath, whacked the knuckle, whacked the LCA, and this thing will not come out. All the while I've been spraying all kinds of penetrating fluid into the boot (which is pulverized now).



The only things I have hesitated to try are jacking up under the ball joint thread and see if that pressure will pop it out, and I haven't used a torch on it because I heard some B/J's will blow up on you if you're not careful.





Any suggestions are greatly appreciated as I'm about to loose it and I'd like to finish this without having it hauled to a mechanic..
 
BTDT. Lower ball joint tapered seats can be a real PITA. Thread the castle nut on the stud and use a shallow 1 1/8" socket

on a jack to lift the LCA until it barely lifts that side. Apply heat to the knuckle around the taper and hit with BFH until it releases.
 
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Meant PARTIALLY thread the nut on the stud leaving a gap. Also easier to press new ball joints in the LCA after leaving them in the freezer right before installation.
 
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Some of the u tube vids arent the best, but worth looking at if you havent. Hope its off by now, I remember using a propane torch on mine. :fire:
 
Went and picked up a couple bernzomatic cannisters and one of the nicer heads for them from lowes (hope that'll do the trick), but I woke up late today and had to go to work before I could get started..



I have a couple of questions though, since this is my first time using one of these torches.



I should just heat up the knuckle for like a minute or two right? Should I move the flame all around the stud on the knuckle or just focus it on one spot? I shouldn't heat the stud direclty should I?



And after I heat it I just start beating the knuckle downward with a hammer till it pops off the joint?



Speaking of which, it had been suggested that I screw the castle nut back on a little and lift it,but I've screwed up the thread so I'm gunna have to skip that part. But I do have several layers of towels on top of cardboard for the knuckle to land on and it's situated so that the spindle won't hit anything either. Should I still jack up the LCA from the B/J stud?



Sorry if this is all trivial stuff but like I said its my first time using heat for something like this. Hopefully I'll have an actual update tomorrow morning!

 
I should just heat up the knuckle for like a minute or two right? Should I move the flame all around the stud on the knuckle or just focus it on one spot? I shouldn't heat the stud directly should I?



Pretty much. You want to heat the knuckle to increase it's inner diameter so that the joint will come out (hopefully). Try to not directly heat the ball joint, and heat the knuckle in stages - a minute or two, moving the torch, and let it sit for 30 or 40 seconds, so that the heat can distribute, and then again. Try to remove after this and, if it doesn't come out, another dose.



You're still going to have to wrestle with it, but it should be easier.



The cardboard and towels seems okay (these parts are pretty tough). Maybe you can attach the knuckle to the frame or something with wire, so that when it drops, it won't hit the ground.



Edit - I found these:



<a href="http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188225" target="_blank">Lower Ball Joint Replacement How To (lots of Pictures)</a>



<a href="http://www.mysporttrac.com/MySportTrac/projects/InstallingNewLowerBallJoints.pdf" target="_blank">Installing New Lower Ball Joints</a>
 
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Could be hot so dont touch it, you could kick it aside or poor water on it, good luck and hopefully you will finally git er done!!! Next time will be easier lol :haveabeer:
 
Alright guys! I put a socket tight around the thread, jacked it up, tied up the knuckle, heated it up for a few minutes and after about 15 swings it popped loose! Now it's all pressed and back together, all I have left is the passenger side then it's off to get an alignment. Thanks for all the replies, you guys really helped out!
 
Alright guys! I put a socket tight around the thread, jacked it up, tied up the knuckle, heated it up for a few minutes and after about 15 swings it popped loose! Now it's all pressed and back together, all I have left is the passenger side then it's off to get an alignment. Thanks for all the replies, you guys really helped out!
 
Good job! They were tough for me too, one of the most demanding jobs I ever had with the ST. Was tempted to anti seize the new ball joint tapers but read not to use it.



Hopefully I can close this chapter tomorrow and move on to the dreaded body mounts

Unless you have lot's of corrosion, body mounts should be easy by comparison. Your new propane torch will be serving double duty and worth it's weight in gold. :supercool:
 
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Here's a link for a body mount tutorial from Hugh (OffTrac)



If you need help just ask, many here have done them. GL
 
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