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TracVanNoir

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Hi all. Just bought an 03’ with 129k xlt 4x4 got some awesome stuff done to it already but gonna clean up the rust a bit and then viper line the WHOLE thing!! Also she was filthy when I got her and just scrubbing her up did a lot of justice... will not be reinstalling a CB... gotta hole in the muffler... think I should change the chain tensioners.... also gonna put a 2nd battery to run the extras... idk we’ll see!
 

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Good looking ExST!
Considered a bed topper, but would miss the breeze thru the back window in good weather.
If you don't know maintenance history; best get those 2 OilPressurized TimingTensioners changed.
Also best to become OCD about Engine Oil+Filter every 5kMiles\6Mths
& Tranny ATF+Filter changes every 30kMiles\3Yrs
or just pump+replace 2qts of MerconV ATF at the DipStickTube with every OilChange.
Consider swapping out the
~ JunkPlastic ThermoStat Housing to an Aluminum version
~ JunkPlastic HeaterControl BallValve to a Metal PlugValve
~ JunkPlasticTanked 1or2CoreRadiator to a AllAluminum 3or4CoreRadiator
Mileage says its time for new Plugs+Wires & OxygenSensors.
Enjoy!
 
Great 1st Gen. there! A full detail will make that paint really pop! I have a topper too and love the extra cargo space. Where did you get the frame mounted on the luggage rack? Looks outstanding!
 
I have my wife, hand me down, 04 Ford Sport Trac XLT, at about 112,000 miles on it. So I have all of the service history on it. After thinking about buying a 2018 F-150, I decide to pass up on it keep owning the Sport Trac. I first am going to address a noice from the rear, which is tomorrow. Thinking it is the pinion bearing in the rear differential. If that is the case, then I am going to modify the differential to become a limited slip. Then I got to do an annual inspection on it. Than I like to do a detail and find a bed extender for it.

Also, I would check your body mounts. Those are another thing that goes bad. The middle ones OEM are made of foam.
Don't you have to remove the engine to replace chain tensioner?

So where are the Heater Control Ball Valve?
 
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I have my wife, hand me down, 04 Ford Sport Trac XLT, at about 112,000 miles on it. So I have much of the service history on it. After completing at getting a 2018 F-150, I decide to pass up on it keep on with the sport trac. I first am going to address a noice from the rear, which is tomorrow. Thinking it is the pinion bearing in the rear differential. If that is the case, then I am going to modify the differential to become a limited slip. Then I got to do an annual inspection on it. Than I like to do a detail and find a bed extender for it.

Also, I would check your body mounts. Those are another thing that goes bad. The middle ones OEM are made of foam.
Don't you have to remove the engine to replace chain tensioner?

So where are the Heater Control Ball Valve?
HeaterControl Ball Valve on 1stGen ExSTs are underneath the Alternator in the 5/8"Hose return to the CoolantPump, plastic junk thats likely to crack when you change hoses. Replaced mine with an old fashioned metal PlugValve & relocated closer to firewall. Both are VacToClose.
 
JunkPlastic FactoryOE HeaterControl BallValve VacToClose
Ford#yg368
2001.Ford.ExST_Engi.Cool_Heat.Valv_Norm=Open_Ford.yg368.GIF

AllMetal Replacement HeaterControl PlugValve VacToClose
4Seasons#74603
2001.Ford.ExST_Engi.Cool_Heat.Valv_Norm=Open_4Seasons.74603.GIF
 
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Also recommend deleting PCVCoolantLoop, while you're changing Coolant Hoses.
PCVCoolantLoop consists of
~ 3 pieces of smaller 5/16"CoolantHose
~ JunkPlastic\Leaky 5/8~5/16~5/8" CoolantTee near the FireWall.
~ Metal 5/8~5/16~5/8" CoolantTee assembly bolted to right side of engine.
~ 5/16"CoolantOxbow around PCVValve that can be easiliy removed.
~ PCVHeatExchanger on right side of IntakeManifoldThroat with 5/16"CoolantBarbs that can be ground off
The PCVCoolanLoop is a "RubeGoldberg" design that does NOT work to warm a cold PCVValve
considering no coolant flow unless HeaterControlValve is open & that coolant does NOT warm up for several minutes after a cold start.. It's just a useless complication & source of coolant leaks.
 
I have my wife, hand me down, 04 Ford Sport Trac XLT, at about 112,000 miles on it. So I have much of the service history on it. After completing at getting a 2018 F-150, I decide to pass up on it keep on with the sport trac. I first am going to address a noice from the rear, which is tomorrow. Thinking it is the pinion bearing in the rear differential. If that is the case, then I am going to modify the differential to become a limited slip. Then I got to do an annual inspection on it. Than I like to do a detail and find a bed extender for it.

Also, I would check your body mounts. Those are another thing that goes bad. The middle ones OEM are made of foam.
Don't you have to remove the engine to replace chain tensioner?

So where are the Heater Control Ball Valve?
Yes! I had my group b and c body mounts replaced. As you stated, those bushings were that cheap foam rubber. The a and d mounts are in great shape. The original owner garaged the Trac its whole life and it shows. It has 126000 miles and still purrs like a kitten. Sport Tracs rule!
 
Also recommend deleting PCVCoolantLoop, while you're changing Coolant Hoses.
PCVCoolantLoop consists of
~ 3 pieces of smaller 5/16"CoolantHose
~ JunkPlastic\Leaky 5/8~5/16~5/8" CoolantTee near the FireWall.
~ Metal 5/8~5/16~5/8" CoolantTee assembly bolted to right side of engine.
~ 5/16"CoolantOxbow around PCVValve that can be easiliy removed.
~ PCVHeatExchanger on right side of IntakeManifoldThroat with 5/16"CoolantBarbs that can be ground off
The PCVCoolanLoop is a "RubeGoldberg" design that does NOT work to warm a cold PCVValve
considering no coolant flow unless HeaterControlValve is open & that coolant does NOT warm up for several minutes after a cold start.. It's just a useless complication & source of coolant leaks.
So you just let it with no coolant hooked to it? And there is no need for it to be heated?
 
So you just let it with no coolant hooked to it? And there is no need for it to be heated?
Deleting the PCVCoolantLoop is up to your own personal judgement.
On a cold engine, the coolant is also cold & doesn't warm up for several minutes.
The 5/16"PCVCoolantLoop operates parallel with the 5/8"HeaterCoolantLoop
& only flows coolant IF the HeaterContolValve is opened by the Driver selecting cab heat.
Both 5/16"CoolantOxBow on the PCVValve
& 5/16"CoolantHeatExchanger on rightside of IntakeManifoldThroat
get plenty of heat from the left ExhaustManifold & EngineBlock directly below them.
Again it's a personal choice.
When changing CoolantHoses, I discovered a cracked PlasticTee in this side loop
that's a FactoryOE molded assembly at outrageous cost, it made the decision for me.

PCVValve With 5/16"CoolantLoop
2001.Ford.ExST_Engi.AirN_PCVb.Valv_Ford.ev268.JPG

PCVValve wOut 5/16"CoolantLoop, HoseBarbOxBow Removed
2001.Ford.ExST_Engi.AirN_PCVc.Valv_Ford.ev268.JPG

PCVHeatExchanger With 5/16"CoolantLoop
2001.Ford.ExST_Engi.AirN_PCVf.Xchg_Ford.ev256_Olda.GIF

PCVHeatExchanger wOut 5/16"CoolantLoop, HoseBarbs Ground Off
2001.Ford.ExST_Engi.AirN_PCVj.Xchg_Ford.ev256_ReSt.GIF
 
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I have my wife, hand me down, 04 Ford Sport Trac XLT, at about 112,000 miles on it. So I have much of the service history on it. After completing at getting a 2018 F-150, I decide to pass up on it keep on with the sport trac. I first am going to address a noice from the rear, which is tomorrow. Thinking it is the pinion bearing in the rear differential. If that is the case, then I am going to modify the differential to become a limited slip. Then I got to do an annual inspection on it. Than I like to do a detail and find a bed extender for it.

Also, I would check your body mounts. Those are another thing that goes bad. The middle ones OEM are made of foam.
Don't you have to remove the engine to replace chain tensioner?

So where are the Heater Control Ball Valve?
I have a 2005 and I have a bed extender that I never use if you want to buy it! I live just outside of New Hope, Pa! So I think we are close! Ken 215-932-5524
 
Great 1st Gen. there! A full detail will make that paint really pop! I have a topper too and love the extra cargo space. Where did you get the frame mounted on the luggage rack? Looks outstanding!
Not sure previous got put it on... but I’ll check the brand and let you know!
 
nice trac,,, there is a lot of good advise from this site with some great ideas, let me know how the extra battery goes and where ya mount it.
 
Meh, Delete it.. its pointless. Got plenty in NY not running them..lol

Welcome, good luck with it. Changing the tensioners is only a band aid….
 

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