Ken kojimashawaiirrcom
Member
This is what came in this package. One oil drain valve. Note; you
will receive application chart sheet with this shipment and clearly state
that this is the right valve # F-106.
I decided to use Teflon tape on the treads. This will prevent oil
leak and make better seal around the treads.
You should only need to go around two passes around treads. Any
more will be too thick.
This is what should look like after you applied the Teflon tape.
Photo indicated that there is a blue gasket that came with this
valve. Also valve lever and repairable "C" clamp.
Before you begin you must raise your vehicle. I use 4"x 6" wooden
block that angle cut on the end to ease climbing on top to rise without
using car jack. This will make pretty good ramp to change oil or do under
carriage work without using car jack and car stand.
When you raised your vehicle, you should always excise "safety".
Chuck your rear wheels and applied parking brakes.
If you climb underneath your vehicle from the passenger side, you
will see oil drain plug. I used 5/8-inch box wrench to remove drain plug.
Make sure to catch your oil in drain pan or oil change box.
You can hand tighten your new valve until it's bottom out and by
using crescent wrench to tightened further. Don't over tighten it, or you
will strip the treads. You should still have some oil left in your pan soon
after installing this valve. Try moving the lever to open position. You will
see the oil flow through the valve opening. Now closed the valve, you will
see immediate stoppage of oil.
Now that you have completed your installation. You must not
forget to add some oil before you start backing out your vehicle. I use
recommended 5-30W oil, about 4 and ¼ quarts. Now you may start you engine
and check to see if any oil is leaking by the new drain valve. If everything
looks good, give yourself nice refreshment and enjoy the next oil change.
will receive application chart sheet with this shipment and clearly state
that this is the right valve # F-106.
I decided to use Teflon tape on the treads. This will prevent oil
leak and make better seal around the treads.
You should only need to go around two passes around treads. Any
more will be too thick.
This is what should look like after you applied the Teflon tape.
Photo indicated that there is a blue gasket that came with this
valve. Also valve lever and repairable "C" clamp.
Before you begin you must raise your vehicle. I use 4"x 6" wooden
block that angle cut on the end to ease climbing on top to rise without
using car jack. This will make pretty good ramp to change oil or do under
carriage work without using car jack and car stand.
When you raised your vehicle, you should always excise "safety".
Chuck your rear wheels and applied parking brakes.
If you climb underneath your vehicle from the passenger side, you
will see oil drain plug. I used 5/8-inch box wrench to remove drain plug.
Make sure to catch your oil in drain pan or oil change box.
You can hand tighten your new valve until it's bottom out and by
using crescent wrench to tightened further. Don't over tighten it, or you
will strip the treads. You should still have some oil left in your pan soon
after installing this valve. Try moving the lever to open position. You will
see the oil flow through the valve opening. Now closed the valve, you will
see immediate stoppage of oil.
Now that you have completed your installation. You must not
forget to add some oil before you start backing out your vehicle. I use
recommended 5-30W oil, about 4 and ¼ quarts. Now you may start you engine
and check to see if any oil is leaking by the new drain valve. If everything
looks good, give yourself nice refreshment and enjoy the next oil change.
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