Oil pressure after a short drive

[Ed Fenwick]

Aloha guys, I think that I have asked this before, but maybe someone new can answer. I have clatter on start-up after a short drive (1 mile or so) If I drive more, 10-15 miles. there is no rattle even the next morning. I have had the chains replaced.
My question, since I get full oil pressure right away even in the driveway? Why do I have to drive 10 miles to make it not clatter.
Thanks and may God bless you all even if you can't answer. Ed

 

[DILLARD000]

Hey Ed,
Can't remember when you said your TimingChains were replaced?
Did this rattle problem begin immediately after TimingChain work or any other changes?
What weight Oil & what Filter are you using? Is Oil level were it should be? Any Oil leaks?
Does the OilPressureNeedle fall immediately before rattle starts?

 

[Ed Fenwick]

Chains replaced about 20K miles ago.
Clatter started right away, I was too cheep to get a warranty.
No other work
5-20 Mobile 1 mostly, maybe 10-20 Mobile 1,
Napa Gold sometimes Mobile 1 filters.
No real leaks, just a drop on the carport floor after I installed a drain valve.
I crank for 4-5 seconds then lift throttle.
As a rule, I don't let the rattle start.

 

[DILLARD000]

What specific Timing partts were replaced; Sprockets\Chains\Guides\Tensioners\...?
Sounds like bad work or bad parts or parts not actually replaced.
Where you able to witness\verify any of the work as it was being done?
Did you get old removed parts back from mechanic when he finished the work?
Could try replacing OilPressurized Tensioners again, but may already have damage.
Best to open up ValveCovers & OilPan & inspect directly for broken guides.
Again, does OilPressureNeedle fall immediately before rattle starts?
What do you mean "I don't let the rattle start"?
I recommend 0w30.FullSyn so to get oil flowing ASAP on ColdStarts.
Filter is likely not a problem.

 

[Ed Fenwick]

I will try to find receipt for parts.
I have not seen the needle fall.
I try not to allow any rattle by cranking at full throttle 'till I get oil pressure (4-5 seconds).
Kinda expensive to open the engine, Would that be 3-4 hours time?
Ed

 

[DILLARD000]

Best to get labor estimate from a commercial mechanic.
I'd not go back to same guy who did bad Timing work 20kMiles ago;
also don't think receipts will do any good at this point.
I'd prefer to do work myself for roughly $200 in parts,
open ValveCovers & drop OilPan for inspection with my own eyes;
if no broken Guides found then replace OilPressurizedTensioners.

 

[Ed Fenwick]

Dillard, you are correct about a written estimate if there is a next time. I am old and there is no money to open the engine at this time. I am curious though what difference it makes to drive 10 miles and no rattle the next morning as opposed to drive 1 mile and there is rattle the next morning. There is something I don't understand.
Ed

 

[DILLARD000]

...old and there is no money to open the engine at this time
...curious though what difference it makes to drive 10 miles and no rattle the next morning
...opposed to drive 1 mile and there is rattle the next morning
...something I don't understand

Don't understand that either, but rattle indicates a problem in any case.
Retired now several years & know my abilities are slowly surely diminishing with time also.
Hopefully you can find a younger stronger friend who can help.
In mean time, make sure oil is completely full, pre-crank every start, & only drive this if absolutely needed.
Snow several inches here, wish I were enjoying Hawaii warmth now; I'd gladly come by & help.

 

[Todd Z]

UGH,,, sounds like a collapsed tensioner, another failed part, OR there is crap in the pan clogging the pump, or the pump is damaged....