Overheating Update..

Ford SportTrac Forum

Help Support Ford SportTrac Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

David Griffith 2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
2,492
Reaction score
0
Location
Atlanta, GA
This is an update to the overheating issue I've been having. I had some time to check for leaks last night and I've determined that the thermostat housing is leaking pretty bad. From searching around the site I've learned that I'm better off replacing the whole thing instead of trying to replace the o rings. I'm going to start hunting around online to see the best price I can get for the whole assembly. I did read the project on replacing the thermostat but I want to do the whole housing. Anyone had to go through this? Any advise? Thanks in advance.
 
I'm confused. From what I can tell the thermostat sits inside if this plastic housing. The Coolant I saw was sitting on top of this housing so I assumed the housing is the issue. It looks pretty tough to get to. From the pics in the t-stat project there's barely any room to get the t-stat in and out. I'm curious how easily I can remove the whole assembly. :huh:
 
If you have 100k or more on your ST I suggest replacing the water pump too. Reason why is that if the water pump is bad it will put too much pressure in the cooling system. Also, have your cooling system pressure tested before, and after you do the work; will cost about $30.
 
The lower housing is a PITA to replace... Some have had to remove the whole upper intake and some did not...



Also the Tstat has the gasket on it... the housing does not have a seal, it uses the seal on the t-stat to seal....



Todd Z
 
The fluid I saw was on top of the housing.. Hmmm.. I'm wondering if the bad o ring would cause the housing to leak. I guess I'm going to just start with the t-stat and go from there. Just got a price on the upper housing from Advance (14.00 bucks).. The t-stat is about the same, so one at a time I guess.. I appreciate the help guys.
 
L1tech,



I know that you are a certified ASCE tech, so I do value your input. My rational is that if the water pump is bad (i.e. bad bearings, etc.) it will turn to fast causing more that 16 psi in the cooling system which will show up as leaks or blow off hoses. I am just speaking from my own experience, and my sons recommendation as he has worked in the auto body repair business for over 5 yrs. now, and at several different places around town.
 
The belt on the engine controls the speed of the pump.... it can slip causing the pump to spin slow, but it can not speed it up in any way...... Bad bearings can cause noise, and damage......



It is almost a locked mechanical fitting...



Todd Z
 
Yes, I like the 860 over the 865 any day :cool: It also puts the OEM tensioner back into the factory marks,.,,, the 865 seems to loose from the get go....



Todd Z
 
Like Todd said it's the belt that dictates pump speed...kind of, actually it's the size of the crank and water pump pulley coupled with crank speed that determines the pump speed....but that's just splitting hairs. Actually the overall coolant temp has more to do with pressure in the cooling system than the water pump does, the water pumps are of a high volume low pressure design.
 
Top