PCV valve issues

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Phil V

Phil V

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Oct 31, 2012
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Location
, ON
So.. Sometimes when I back out of my driveway I notice small amounts of liquid on the ground. Assumed it just the AC draining. Started to wonder why it did it when the AC wasn't even on.



Looked around under the truck. Noticed what looked like oil coming out at the bottom of the exhaust manifold. This greatly concerned me.. A look from above told me everything I needed to know. Coolant has been leaking out at the PCV valve (coolant hoses) and dripping down the back of my engine, onto the exhaust manifold, my RT y pipe, transmission even. By the looks of it I may have lost a bunch of coolant.



I've been scouring the website for any info on this. I replaced the valve a while ago. Anyways it felt a bit loose. Still was locked in but had play in it. So I did what some did with the RTV silicone. It's currently drying.



As for the coolant leak. I think the hoses were just partially warped on the end. They are as old as the truck (10 years) Stretched out openings. Either that or the OEM clamps aren't holding a tight seal. I cut the lines a bit shorter and put them back on. Hopefully this solves my issue.



If not, I will likely buy a new hose and delete the loop as Todd Z has.



I do live in Canada where it gets quite cold in the winter. Any adverse effects if I was to do this?



If anyone has had this same issue or can enlighten me with anything please do.

 
Yes I did read that thread. That is where I saw that Todd cut his line shorter and deleted the loop around the PCV.



I always let my truck warm up in the winter so I guess I shouldn't be too concerned if I do delete it.



I was also just wondering if anyone else experienced a coolant leak at this location.



Also when I disconnected the hoses ( Had not driven truck since yesterday) The one line leaked a bunch of coolant for quite some time. Not just a few drips like suggested
 
I have a new PCV sitting on my workbench. In looking at it, I don't see how it could be "loose" since it has an O-ring plus two small locking tabs. The only loose part is the metal hose that wraps around the valve, which is not an issue. Leakage of coolant with a new PCV value is most likely assoicated with clamps and damage hoses. Can you really see that your leak is associated with those coolant lines...and if so, which one? When cold there is no pressure and I can's see how they could leak at that time unless the coolant hoses have some sort of damage.



If you're getting oil leakage at the PCV entry point, then perhaps you didn't twist it in enough to engage the two locking tabs. When you did the install, did you hear them click as you did the final twist of the valve? In terms of coolant running out of a disconnected hose, that would happen with the radiator cap being removed at the time, or if both PCV coolant lines were disconnected at the same time. That flow of coolant is perhaps the heater core draining out.



I have both new PCV and rubber elbows....looking at the lack of clearance and horrible assessability I plan on only changing the rubber elbows.
 
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By the way, if you installed a new PCV valve, then had issues with the coolant hoses associated with that valve, I don't understand how you removed the valve in order to fix the coolant leak. As I mentioned above, the PCV valve has two locking tabs, which are essentially a one-time use only. Breaking those small locking tabs on a new valve by pulling it off for the second time in order to re-work the coolant hoses would result in a PCV valve that would not stay sealed against the valve cover. Most likely you need to purchase a new valve that has undamaged locking tabs. That sounds like the source of an oil leak, if the new valve is loose.
 
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Interesting, I was not aware it was a one-time use part... Thank you.



For now my fix should be fine but I'll be sure to replace the valve / hoses soon enough.



Let me see if I can try to describe this a little bit better. Describing things has never been my strong point.



The valve I replaced maybe 15k miles ago. Yesterday I did remove it to fix the coolant hoses. Before I did though, I already noticed it was loose.



When I put it back in, I turned it until it locks into the valve cover, but it had about 1/8 inch play front to back. The internal threads on the pcv valve had matching points on either side where some of the plastic was worn away where the valve cover holds it in place. (If this makes sense). For now it has some RTV sealing it.



I never had any oil leak in this location. It was definitely coolant.



I believe the coolant leaking was due to the worn out hoses where they clamp onto the metal loop around the PCV valve. I cut the ends of the hoses off where the metal clamps held them on. I am sure they were just worn out. (stretched out on the end, causing small amounts of coolant to escape.) It hasn't been much coolant I've been losing, but enough to notice some drips on the driveway.



When I removed one hose from the loop is when a bunch of coolant poured out from the metal loop. Then I removed the other one and no coolant came from that one. You're probably right it was just the heater core draining. I had removed the rad cap for a second then put it back on.



Now that the silicone is cured, I will be starting it, watching for any drips and assessing my level of coolant.



Thank you for your assistance John, let me know if any of this makes sense
 
I'm not sure, but I think that the tabs on the PCV valve are not designed to break off. To where do they go? Do they fall into the head? Get stuck in the recess they engage? How would you know where they went? How does one remove them?



Seems a risky design.
 
You're welcome Phil

Yardsale, my thoughts exactly. In looking over my new PCV valve, sitting on my workbench, I can't envision taking it off and not "rounding out" the very small plastic catch tabs. So, in my opinion, installing one (fully) and then taking it off would most likely result in a PCV value that would come loose and result in a major vacuum leak. As far as the plastic catch tabs, they probably don't break off, but rather the plastic would just bend and deform.



What I want to know is what kind of part on the valve cover receives the catch tabs? Is it also plastic, or is it metal? The reason I ask is because there is no way I could access both PVC catch tabs. On my vehicle I can see one of them, and I could get a small screwdriver on it and bend the tab out. But the other catch tab is on the other non-assessable side. If I twist this PCV off, will anything on the valve cover get damaged, like a plastic female part? Another reason I plan on just keeping the new PCV valve stored...for now.
 
Based on Todd Z's project, I think twisting it counter-clockwise 90' is exactly what is supposed to be done (with an assertive attitude). I think the risk of the tabs not engaging 100% is the potential to work free, not to leak, as there is an o-ring to seal it (at least until it works free).



The base material would depend on the type valve cover (aluminum or plastic), I think. It may be that the plastic valve cover has a metal insert, but I doubt it.



In this case, these two parts (the [PCV] valve and the cover) turned out to be pretty robust, so, continue to be cautious, but don?t sweat it.
Click to expand...



Not sue if they show enough detail, but there are some pictures here:
 
Apparently I didn't even notice the catch tabs so I'm not sure what receives them. Too many cheap plastic parts on this truck!
 
Did you notice that it said that if the PCV is removed...that a new one must be installed? That implies that the catch tabs are damaged during removal. The last picture showing an old valve with a new one...you can see one of the catch tabs.
 
I have replaced 4 ST valve covers because the dumb locking tabs broke or failed for no reason.



Just a FYI



Todd Z
 
You mean the locking tabs associated with the PCV valve hole on the valve cover? And because of having to twist off the old PCV valve? Those tabs?
 
Yes I did notice that I have read everything carefully. I was just saying that during my attempted fix I did not notice them. Didn't even know to look for them. I've ordered a new one and hoses and will be doing this soon enough



That is a nice piece of information Todd. I'm going to have to take a better look when I get the new valve. See what is really going on here



Thank you for your help guys



 
Yes I saw it does not have a coolant line which wraps around it. And that member said that with this he does not need a hose clamp. Is there something I am missing here?
 
You're not really missing anything.



Currently, Ford uses both heated and non -heated PCV systems. The heated systems use either a water heated valve, an electrically heated valve, or an electrically heated tube.
Click to expand...



The gray one is has an electric heating element in it (notice the connector).



Depending on whether you think you need it, you could get one that is not heated and do what you have to either eliminate the coolant lines or connect them where they would connect to a PCV (similar to what Todd Z did).
 
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I was really starting to think that I should do what Todd did. But that wouldn't require me to buy the one without the coolant line. I could just bend the metal piece and remove it. I ordered a couple EV268 due to their low cost / now that I know it's shot as soon as I remove it can't hurt to have a spare



I sure don't have any electrical connectors back there. Mine is exactly like the black one with blue o ring in the other forum thread.



When I ordered them yesterday I noticed that the EV243 (without coolant loop) is actually more money.



EV268 = 9.61 CAD



EV243 = 11.25 CAD



Anyways, I have kept an eye on it for the last two days. I think trimming off the ends where they was clamped ( worn out ) has done the job. No more coolant running down the back of my valve cover onto the exhaust manifold / Y pipe.



Regardless I've got the extra parts coming. When they arrive we'll see if I'm feeling like doing a repair, or "modification" haha

 
These are the instructions for removal and installation of the PCV valve:



1. Remove the vacuum hose.



2. Remove the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve.



A Disconnect the coolant hoses from the PCV valve.



B Unlock and remove the PCV valve from the valve cover.



3. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Click to expand...



"unlock" implies that it can be locked. There is no indication of it being a non-reusable part. Hmm ...
 
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