Ken kojimashawaiirrcom
Member
This is what contained in this box. Power antenna, wires, antenna
lead, bracket, and antenna mounting angle kits. Extra parts you needs are, 2
feet of antenna extension, on and off switch, inline mini fuse holder and
7.5 amp mini fuse. One tube of rubber silicone.
This photo shown variety of part that you'll needed to construct
power antenna mast support. You may not need all these parts. Not even the
angle mounts.
You can use flat screwdriver to remove plastic antenna cover. This
cover will not need any modification but will be reuse later on.
Here you see 3 screws that you need to remove. Keep aside for later
use. You notice that after removing the plastic cover, there is aluminum
antenna receiver and plastic base. You will reuse these parts after you do
your cuttings.
After you removing three screws that hold antenna, you pull out the
cable and disconnecting by pulling on the antenna lead.
If you have mudguard, you need to remove 2 screws. You don't have
to remove inner fender cover completely off. Just remove few screws and
couple of bolts the hold the inner fender cover. (I counted three screws and
two bolts)
Here is the bolt on top of front tire. I use metric socket.
It's hard to see but there is Philips screw on the inner fender. I
removed three of them.
This power antenna unit already came with antenna cable and power
wire connected. To trial fit your antenna, first you must remove these wires
and lead wire.
You will need to attach the antenna support bracket. Here I bend
the bracket down wards so that it's easier to push though the fender
opening.
) Here is a drawing which part is to use to support the mast to
fender.
When you ready to trial fit your antenna, first one that put on
the bottom of mast is ring, the size of nickel that has ridges on the edge.
Second one is aluminum sleeve about 1" tall. You can go ahead and pull out
the mast to about 1 foot. This will makes it easier to guide through the
antenna opening on the fender. Once you have your antenna installed though
the hole, insert plastic sleeve from the top to antenna mast, 1 ¼" long and
locking nut from the top and hand tighten. Make sure that plastic sleeve is
isolating antenna mast from metal fender. You notice that there is a gap on
the antenna hole. This is where you will need to fill the gap with rubber
silicone. This will eliminate water getting into the fender when rain.. Now
you can secure the black ground wire with mounting bracket with sheet metal
screw. I used electric drill to hold the screw and make adjustment as I
attached to bottom of the firewall. Make sure that antenna is straight up
looking from the fender.
Now that you have antenna installed on the fender, tighten
the nut, but not too tight. At this time you should extend the antenna all
the way up. Now stand back and check and see if straight up. You might see
the antenna mast leaning towards driver side. This is normal. This is due to
firewall pushing the antenna towards the fender.
Now you need the power antenna constant power wire (red) and
remote antenna turn-on lead wire (blue) extended about two feet.
I reused the antenna lead clip that holds in place under the
fender just before the firewall.
If you look under the passenger side floor, you can see the orange
antenna lead. This one has to come out. You can open your glove box and
squeeze the end; you can now hang your glove box out of your way to access
the antenna lead.
You can see the antenna lead extension. All you need is gentle
tug and here comes the lead. Once you have the lead out of the glove box,
simply push out the rubber grommet and pass the lead through the firewall.
This is the rubber grommet, take out the factory antenna lead
out and pass through the new antenna lead through the rubber grommet and
into the firewall.
These are the antenna mast mounts that came out of ST. You need
to disassemble these pieces.
Use the pliers to pull out the top portion of antenna mounts, once
you got that out, you can tap from the top and rest should fall out.
This is a plastic part of antenna mount. By using hacksaw,
you must cut out the bottom of this section. And also you should do the same
on the aluminum part as well. Hacksaw will cut these parts like a butter.
This is how it's should looks after you separated the bottom piece
from antenna mount.
This is the aluminum piece. You should drill hole big enough to
clear the antenna's mounting nuts. You might end up drilling 1"-1 ¼"
diameter hole. Take your time to drill. Do the same to the plastic one also.
Trial fit as many times as needed to correct the hole to perfectly fit over
the mounting nut. Plastic piece goes on the bottom first, then the aluminum
one for the top, make sure that three screws that you saved earlier fit
perfectly and able to screw them correctly. Make sure to use electrical tape
to wrap the inner hole of the aluminum piece. This is to eliminate grounding
the antenna mast to the metal when you tighten the screws. I found out that
if you ground the antenna mast with aluminum piece without this tape, your
AM stations wouldn't have any signals coming in.
This is how it should look after you put three-pieces together,
(plastic base, aluminum base and plastic cover) pull out the antenna mast
all the way up now.
This is an auxiliary switch I got these from Radio shack. By
flipping this switch will lower your antenna at your convenience. This will
prevent accidental antenna breakage. It's a must if you have lower clearance
ceiling where you park and should encounter strange obstacles.
These are the antenna power lead and remote lead wire from antenna
motor. Red lead will be connected to cigarette lighter positive wire. (these
wire is constantly supplying power to antenna. Blue wire will be connected
to switch and then switch lead connected to any wire that will be on
whenever the key is in accessory position and when engine is running. I
connected blue wire to radio power lead behind the radio socket. Keep in
mind that ST's radio does not have antenna lead wire output.
Here shown with fuse holder and 7.5 amp mini fuse. Make sure to
inline this fuse holder before you connect to cigarette lighter lead. Make
sure to leave out the fuse until everything is connected.
Under the radio there is two bolts that holds the radio panel.
Use socket wrench to remove them and pull on the bottom will loosen the
radio panel.
If your ST is 4x2 model, you can install auxiliary switch here.
If not, you can find suitable location any where on the radio panel.
You can get better access to back of your radio by removing
some of the connector from radio. After you're done with wiring, you can
close the radio panel and tighten and secure the radio onto the dash.
When you insert the fuse into fuse holder, you should hear the
motor and antenna mast retracting. When you turn the key to ACC, you should
see the antenna extending. Turn off the key and turn the engine on, antenna
should stop extending and as soon as the engine come to life, antenna rise
to the top. Now that you have done the complete installation, listen to your
favored radio station and see if you have radio receptions. Some reason if
you should not receive A.M. signal, check and see if the mast is not
grounding to the fender by aluminum base. This antenna should provide
stronger signal pull than stock antenna. Drive around and show off your new
power antenna to other ST owners, they will think that yours came like this
from the factory.
lead, bracket, and antenna mounting angle kits. Extra parts you needs are, 2
feet of antenna extension, on and off switch, inline mini fuse holder and
7.5 amp mini fuse. One tube of rubber silicone.
This photo shown variety of part that you'll needed to construct
power antenna mast support. You may not need all these parts. Not even the
angle mounts.
You can use flat screwdriver to remove plastic antenna cover. This
cover will not need any modification but will be reuse later on.
Here you see 3 screws that you need to remove. Keep aside for later
use. You notice that after removing the plastic cover, there is aluminum
antenna receiver and plastic base. You will reuse these parts after you do
your cuttings.
After you removing three screws that hold antenna, you pull out the
cable and disconnecting by pulling on the antenna lead.
If you have mudguard, you need to remove 2 screws. You don't have
to remove inner fender cover completely off. Just remove few screws and
couple of bolts the hold the inner fender cover. (I counted three screws and
two bolts)
Here is the bolt on top of front tire. I use metric socket.
It's hard to see but there is Philips screw on the inner fender. I
removed three of them.
This power antenna unit already came with antenna cable and power
wire connected. To trial fit your antenna, first you must remove these wires
and lead wire.
You will need to attach the antenna support bracket. Here I bend
the bracket down wards so that it's easier to push though the fender
opening.
) Here is a drawing which part is to use to support the mast to
fender.
When you ready to trial fit your antenna, first one that put on
the bottom of mast is ring, the size of nickel that has ridges on the edge.
Second one is aluminum sleeve about 1" tall. You can go ahead and pull out
the mast to about 1 foot. This will makes it easier to guide through the
antenna opening on the fender. Once you have your antenna installed though
the hole, insert plastic sleeve from the top to antenna mast, 1 ¼" long and
locking nut from the top and hand tighten. Make sure that plastic sleeve is
isolating antenna mast from metal fender. You notice that there is a gap on
the antenna hole. This is where you will need to fill the gap with rubber
silicone. This will eliminate water getting into the fender when rain.. Now
you can secure the black ground wire with mounting bracket with sheet metal
screw. I used electric drill to hold the screw and make adjustment as I
attached to bottom of the firewall. Make sure that antenna is straight up
looking from the fender.
Now that you have antenna installed on the fender, tighten
the nut, but not too tight. At this time you should extend the antenna all
the way up. Now stand back and check and see if straight up. You might see
the antenna mast leaning towards driver side. This is normal. This is due to
firewall pushing the antenna towards the fender.
Now you need the power antenna constant power wire (red) and
remote antenna turn-on lead wire (blue) extended about two feet.
I reused the antenna lead clip that holds in place under the
fender just before the firewall.
If you look under the passenger side floor, you can see the orange
antenna lead. This one has to come out. You can open your glove box and
squeeze the end; you can now hang your glove box out of your way to access
the antenna lead.
You can see the antenna lead extension. All you need is gentle
tug and here comes the lead. Once you have the lead out of the glove box,
simply push out the rubber grommet and pass the lead through the firewall.
This is the rubber grommet, take out the factory antenna lead
out and pass through the new antenna lead through the rubber grommet and
into the firewall.
These are the antenna mast mounts that came out of ST. You need
to disassemble these pieces.
Use the pliers to pull out the top portion of antenna mounts, once
you got that out, you can tap from the top and rest should fall out.
This is a plastic part of antenna mount. By using hacksaw,
you must cut out the bottom of this section. And also you should do the same
on the aluminum part as well. Hacksaw will cut these parts like a butter.
This is how it's should looks after you separated the bottom piece
from antenna mount.
This is the aluminum piece. You should drill hole big enough to
clear the antenna's mounting nuts. You might end up drilling 1"-1 ¼"
diameter hole. Take your time to drill. Do the same to the plastic one also.
Trial fit as many times as needed to correct the hole to perfectly fit over
the mounting nut. Plastic piece goes on the bottom first, then the aluminum
one for the top, make sure that three screws that you saved earlier fit
perfectly and able to screw them correctly. Make sure to use electrical tape
to wrap the inner hole of the aluminum piece. This is to eliminate grounding
the antenna mast to the metal when you tighten the screws. I found out that
if you ground the antenna mast with aluminum piece without this tape, your
AM stations wouldn't have any signals coming in.
This is how it should look after you put three-pieces together,
(plastic base, aluminum base and plastic cover) pull out the antenna mast
all the way up now.
This is an auxiliary switch I got these from Radio shack. By
flipping this switch will lower your antenna at your convenience. This will
prevent accidental antenna breakage. It's a must if you have lower clearance
ceiling where you park and should encounter strange obstacles.
These are the antenna power lead and remote lead wire from antenna
motor. Red lead will be connected to cigarette lighter positive wire. (these
wire is constantly supplying power to antenna. Blue wire will be connected
to switch and then switch lead connected to any wire that will be on
whenever the key is in accessory position and when engine is running. I
connected blue wire to radio power lead behind the radio socket. Keep in
mind that ST's radio does not have antenna lead wire output.
Here shown with fuse holder and 7.5 amp mini fuse. Make sure to
inline this fuse holder before you connect to cigarette lighter lead. Make
sure to leave out the fuse until everything is connected.
Under the radio there is two bolts that holds the radio panel.
Use socket wrench to remove them and pull on the bottom will loosen the
radio panel.
If your ST is 4x2 model, you can install auxiliary switch here.
If not, you can find suitable location any where on the radio panel.
You can get better access to back of your radio by removing
some of the connector from radio. After you're done with wiring, you can
close the radio panel and tighten and secure the radio onto the dash.
When you insert the fuse into fuse holder, you should hear the
motor and antenna mast retracting. When you turn the key to ACC, you should
see the antenna extending. Turn off the key and turn the engine on, antenna
should stop extending and as soon as the engine come to life, antenna rise
to the top. Now that you have done the complete installation, listen to your
favored radio station and see if you have radio receptions. Some reason if
you should not receive A.M. signal, check and see if the mast is not
grounding to the fender by aluminum base. This antenna should provide
stronger signal pull than stock antenna. Drive around and show off your new
power antenna to other ST owners, they will think that yours came like this
from the factory.
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