Project for this weekend...

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Dingo

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So I got some nice new hoses for the truck. I've been neglecting it lately, so I plan on doing the spark plugs and hoses this weekend.



<img src="http://www.mysporttrac.com/~library/22354/Hoses/P1030057%20(Small).JPG">
 
Yay! More stuff just got here!



<img src="http://www.mysporttrac.com/~library/22354/P1030059%20(Small).JPG">



<img src="http://www.mysporttrac.com/~library/22354/P1030061%20(Small).JPG">



Anyone want to come help?
 
I do. That's why I got the champions instead of the Motorcrafts or Autolites, and that's why I'm doing it at 20k miles. Thanks for pointing that out, though. I doubt many on here know about that.
 
Read about a proceedure for removing them, can't hurt, on a barly warm engine.

Back them of just a bit, hit them with PB blaster, than let them set awhile.

Did mine on the stang at 10k, no problems, used a lttle anti- sieze on the new plugs and be very carefull with the TQ specs.
 
The stock plug is a 2-piece design. Because of how it's made, most of the stock plugs break in half on removal. The Ford TSB says on a barely warm engine, to back each plug out about 1/8 of a turn, then fill the spark plug hole to the top of the threads with a good penetrating lube. Wait about a half hour for it to seep down the plug, and remove the plug 1/4 turn, put it back in 1/8 turn, back out 1/4 turn, back in 1/8 turn, etc. Then to coat the electrode shield on the new plugs with anti-seize compound, then to put them in. Ford even made a special tool to remove broken plugs if just the electrode shield stays in the heads. If the ceramic part breaks off, too, you have to pull the heads.



By the way, Bill, the Champions and the Brisk Racing plugs are the only 1-piece gappable plugs as of now. The Brisks are a very wrong heat range for me, though.
 
run a real cold plug, used the Autolite HTOs, have not heard of any probs with them.

Pricy tho, 10 bux ea. and 30 bux for the proper gap tool:(
 
Yeah, most places have the Champions for around $20/plug, but you can gap 'em with any regular gapper. Same with the Brisks.



Bill, the HT0s, HT1s, and the Motorcrafts are all the same 2 piece design. You'll eventually develop the same problem. The best plug for you is the Brisk Racing 3VR14S.



<img src="http://dragcoverage.com/news/data/upimages/brisk_sparkplugs.jpg">
 
Wow! :eek: That's the longest plug I've ever seen!



But you have to remember, I don't get out much. ;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This is what Bill's plugs and the stock ones look like:



<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v636/fc7gtx/RoushPlug.jpg">



Here is why they're crap:



<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v636/fc7gtx/7538-10939-218833.jpg">
 
Mine are not going anywhere:)

In todays engines, plugs truley do last at least 100K miles.

Dingo, are no brisk plugs in the heat range I need with my tune,I know some guys use them in F.I cars, but they are not running 10 lbs of boost.

That being said, yes the plug design is faulty, But they do not spontainiously break.

They break only upon improper removal so it is a problem if you change plugs every 10 K miles (which is a total waste of money and painfull time)

I changed plugs at 7K miles because we changed the tune and modded the blower.

same plug, same heat range (changed the gap from the standard .045 to .035, decided on a new set of plugs just for grins ( the plug issue was not known about at that time, twoyrs ago)

So I drive 4k miles per yr (just a weekend warrior).

The plugs should last at least 25.6678, yrs, I will be 86 yrs old.

Refuse to drive the Roush wearing Diapers:) so not going to be a problem.

Your doing the right thing but it is not a panic situation.
 
Just off the phone with Autolight tech support, The problem is real.

was a funny call, first got some guy in india, he had not a clue, switched me back to the engineering dept in the U.S, talked to larry, he said the issue is real, he also said he has a 3 V trac that he just swapped out the plugs at 40K (would not tell me what brand of plugs tho)

Larry said the fix is to use anti-sieze not only on the threads but also partway down the electrode hood.

So I asked larry, larry your an engineer correct? says he is, Is that a fix larry or a bandaid.

He says it will help with the problem, not really a fix tho.

Still do not believe it is a panic situation, but would have your dealer change the plugs and hammer them to do it under warranty, if they will not, still have the dealer do it, might save you some towage fees to the dealer.

 

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