Rear anti-sway bar bushings

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swshawaii

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That's correct. Washers under the bolt heads. IIRC, no factory torque spec was given for the upper bolts. Uppers are threaded into extruded u-nuts similar to the frame bushing brackets that rarely come loose. There was a TSB for new design end links and the torque spec was increased to 55-59 ft/lbs. I tried 50 ft/lbs and was chewing up bushings every year. That 76 ft/lb. spec for the lower bolts seems insanely tight and would cause the sway bar to severely bind. JMO

I'm using the Moog flange bolts supplied with the K80085 kits. If you still have them it may be an option.

 

blert

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I'm using the Moog flange bolts supplied with the K80085 kits. If you still have them it may be an option.
Heh! That actually what I planed to do. I took the bolts out of the MOOG kit and the nylon lock nuts out of the ES kit for the lowers and am going to try the new bolts from the ES kit in the uppers. The ES bolts are same thread but slightly longer so it may not work, will see tomorrow.
 

blert

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Went well. Will re-torque in a couple days.
The longer bolts were too long IMO. There was enough room to torque them down but you could barely pass a four-times folded sheet if paper between the bolt end and the frame. Changed them for the shorter original bolts.

On a semi-related note...
Don't take your truck for a test drive after you have been soaking the body bushing mounts in penetrating fluid for three days prior to replacement. The gods-awful noise of the creaking and grinding was a surprise and freaked me out a little.
 

swshawaii

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Well done. What did you end up torquing the bolts at?

Agree, there's nothing worse than metal to metal noises. Brake pad rivets on rotors come to mind. Can you imagine me driving with these "flared" cab bushings over a year? Yes, that flare was caused by rubbing the cab sheet metal. Surprisingly no appreciable damage to the cab. Never seen anything like it.
 

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blert

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I put them at 40 lbs/ft, upper and lower.

That must have been quite a racket. My body bushings don't exist anymore so there is absolutely nothing keeping it from metal on metal. Was quiet before but the penetrating fluid freed them up. I thought I had put the sway bar on wrong for a minute there.
 

swshawaii

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It was fine.... until making a turn. LOL

Entering inclined driveways with lot's of cab flex were the worst.
 

blert

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OK, driver's side done. Took about five hours to do just the one side but in my defense, my 15yo son was helping me because it is about time for him to start learning how to do this kind of stuff. He's going to have a junker of his own soon and you can't take it to the shop for everything, even big stuff. He works tomorrow so I should be able to get the passenger side done fairly quickly.
The 'D' bushing looks a little bitten into on the bottom. May be just how it is. I might try to find a larger washer for it.
 

swshawaii

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Five hours isn't bad for the driver side if you replaced A thru D and have any corrosion. Rearmost bed bushings can be a real PITA to separate with those internal locking tabs. Hardest part for me was getting the parking brake cable out of the way. Got it slack, but couldn't get it the cable out of the bracket for the life of me. Read somewhere to use a 1/2" flare nut wrench but didn't have one. Had to gently "force" the lower bushing into position.
 

blert

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Done and done!
Took me about three hours for the passenger side, a lot of time fighting with the retaining clip in 'D'.
Feels great so far. Took it around the block a few times and shook it up a bit. Best thing... no more squeaking!
Doors are working better, don't have to yank on them to open.
 

swshawaii

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Cool. Just by replacing body mounts, sway bar, and end link bushings should make it feel and handle like a "new" ride. Congrats!
 

EddieS'04

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My OEM body mounts were so deteriated. I had to drive some wooden wedges. Between cab and frame, until the poly bushings were delivered. Too much banging and noise.
 
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