Rear anti-sway bar bushings

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blert

Well-Known Member
1st Gen Owner
2 wheel drive
2001 job 2
Joined
Oct 2, 2006
Messages
612
Reaction score
306
Location
Titusville, FL
What engine do you have?
V6 engine
What year is your Sport Trac?
2001
What Generation is your Sport Trac?
1st Gen Owner
Well, hello folks. It's been a while since I have been lurking around this place but I am in need of an assist.
I still have my ST (01, job2) and have been considering putting a little money into it. My front end feels squirrelly so I took it in to have it inspected. Tech found nothing wrong. Figured I might try a new set of shocks and at the same time deal with the rear anti-sway bar end links and bushings (deteriorated and squeaky). I can't find rear bushings.

Anybody know where I might be able to score a couple? Measured the diameter of the stock bar and came up with ~19mm.
Thanks.
 
Use the ES or Prothane polyurethane kit. BEST $25 you can spend on a suspension upgrade.

Rear frame bushings and end link bushings are split so very easy to install. MANY satisfied users, just search and GL.

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/4.5153
 
Thank you very much. I believe I will go with the kit from ES and also pick up the body mount kit (Thanos must have gotten to both sides B and C, all that is left is dust).
 
Most use the Prothane 6116 kit since ES has yet to make a custom kit for the Gen 1 Trac and probably never will. I actually bought the Daystar KF04015KV kit infused with kevlar. Was going to buy the Prothane, but caught an Amazon deal for $65 shipped that I couldn't pass up. Didn't need "bullet proof" (LOL) body mounts, but with a $150+ retail price I had to bite. Made the mistake of replacing original "B" and "C" mounts a few years back and they are rotting again. Only replaced with OEM because I got a COMPLETE set from another member for around $100 because he sold his truck. Make sure you have a torch to heat the bottom of the body mount bolts to soften the Loctite. Ford is notorious for using an excessive amount of heat activated blue thread lock compound on certain bolts. Four bed bolts are another, but you can't heat those without damaging the composite bed.
 
Looking at the pics on the ES website... the Prothane and Daystar bushings look completely different from one another. They are about the same price but the Daystar kit gives you radiator mount bushings too. In your experience, is one kit better than the other as far as road noise and potential poly-squeak?

Edit: went ahead and ordered the Prothane kit, based on the reviews on the ES website. Now to get the wife to OK a set of Bilstein shocks and I will be ready to get to work.
 
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Not fair for me to say since I've only had the stock MCU crap. MANY more here and on EF have used the Prothane kit with stellar results. IIRC, Daystar had early issues with the "D" bed mounts being too short that caused movement and squeaking. Hopefully they corrected the issue. @Todd Z was even making a special washer for those rearmost bushings. IMO, use the tried and true Prothane 6116, your choice of black or red. I don't believe Prothane mixes graphite in with their black body mounts, only their suspension and steering bushings. Maybe Todd Z will chime in as he did before regarding torque spec to prevent noise.
https://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/installation_instructions/prothane/6-116.pdf
 
I edited above just as you replied.
I ordered the Prothane kit. I think I saw somewhere on the forum where ToddZ said torque to spec and add 10-15 pounds, can't be sure though.
Thanks for your help.
 
There are MANY body mount tutorials and YT videos specifically for 2001-05 Sport Tracs. Wouldn't hurt to read and watch a few before starting. Please keep us posted on your progress and good luck.

BTW, the Prothane 6116 should include the "A" radiator support mounts. Eight positions upper and lower. 16 total bushings.
 
Watched a few videos already. Seems an easy enough job, in theory. In practice, I know it can get a bit hairy. Already done a tool check and just need to pick up a fresh propane tank for the torch. Hopefully the wife and kids will let me get to work next week if the parts arrive on time.
After this adventure it will be time to explore fixing the door handles and locks, and then prepping, painting and slapping vinyl on the roof.
 
Oh boy! Got my bushings in. Got the rear sway bar and links off. Got the new bushings on the sway bar back on the truck. How the hell do you get that metal bit out of the end link? The upper bushings crumbled and I am left with a metal "sleeve" that is pressed into the link. How do you get that out? The new bushings won't fit with it in there.
Currently waiting for my neighbor to get home (big gear head) to see if he has a gear puller or something that can get them out. Might have to just go buy new end links.
 
Thanks. It seems that article is calling it the "sleeve". That needs to come out right?
 

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It appears to me. If the new bushing is a 2 piece without the outer shell. Don't remove original sleeve.
 
Sleeves must be removed for ES bushings.
 

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Thought so, the darn things don't fit otherwise. MOOG won't either, I found a set in my garage a couple days ago. My neighbor says he can take them to work and press them out for me tomorrow. So, looks like I will be finishing this job tomorrow night.
Thanks a lot for checking this for me. I really appreciate it.
 
Press is the best way. Too much chance for damage with a chisel or saw. Remember to use the supplied lube.

BTW, the blue Moog bushings are garbage thermoplastic rubber just like their old style front end link grommets. Polyurethane FTW.
 
BTW, the blue Moog bushings are garbage thermoplastic rubber just like their old style front end link grommets. Polyurethane FTW.
I must have bought them over a decade ago when I bought parts to have the front end rebuilt, along with the gear oil and set of front brake pads, and just never got around to doing the jobs. Come to think of it, it's time for a brake job too. Luckily, I don't have to spend any $$.
 
@blert
Did some research re: Prothane 6116 body mounts. I believe the torque confusion comes from the Daystar vs. Prothane instructions.

Daystar specifies 45 ft/lbs. for the cab mounts. Pretty vague, and no mention of "A" bushings torque.
https://www.daystarweb.com/sites/default/files/installation/Daystar-KF04015BK.pdf
Prothane is much more specific and specs "A" bushings @ 41 ft/lbs. and "B-C-D" @ 59 ft/lbs. which is factory spec. Since it's recommended to re-torque ALL mounts after 1000 miles I would initially install them dry WITHOUT threadlocker and use it after driving 1000 miles and retorqing. Some have installed body mounts WITHOUT Loctite and had no loosening after many miles. YMMV
https://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/installation_instructions/prothane/6-116.pdf
I think it's a safe bet to follow Prothane's instructions using the factory torque specs. I believe the Daystar spec of 45 ft/lbs, is too low and should be the same as Prothane's.

Here's an interesting discussion on EF with koda2000 (Phil).
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/new-toy.429074/post-3454937
 
My body shop guy he did not use thread locker. He did go back and re-torque the bolt.s.
He re-torqued them about 30 ft-lbs above instructions. No problems after about 3 years.
Did not replace the ones under the radiator header. They were made of a more solid material.
I like the feeling of the cab now. When going into a fast hard curve.
 
Alright! Got the links back all ready to go and it only cost me a six pack. Going to finish this tomorrow.
Just so I am clear...
The ES kit came with some new hardware and four large washers. More hardware than came off the truck. I think it should go like this maybe?...
Upper: old bolt, new washer, bushing, link, bushing, frame.
Lower: new bolt, new washer, bushing, link, bushing, bar, nut.

Hmmm... I guess I'm wondering if both sides of the lower bushings should have washers. Anybody have a pic of their installed set.
 

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