Rodger (& Georgia) got a question about your WATER PUMP install

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rob chaw

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I truely believe i have a bad waterpump myself... :angry:

Already changed the radiator hoses and thermostat last week but my problem of the TOP radiator hose is still there it gets extremely hot and swells up when i run the engine. Radiator flows so i believe it is the pump...

Weird cus the temp gauge stays normal. but i guess the thermostat is not close to the top radiator hose..



Question is how hard was it to change?

Looks like i'll need to take off the radiator am i correct?

any insight/ suggestions before i start the job?



thanks,

rob
 
Rob,



My son, who works for a body shop, has to do water pumps for front end collisions. He said that from his experience the water pump should be change if you have over 100k miles.



With that said:

"Question is how hard was it to change?"

No it is not difficult to change, just time consuming. It will take you about 2-4 hrs. depending on whether you have to make any runs for parts and coolant as we did. Check your manual for the amount of coolant needed.



"Looks like i'll need to take off the radiator am i correct?"

You may have to take off the radiator, not sure. I have an e-fan, so the OEM fan is not in the way, and did not have to remove it. Since you will have to remove the Serpentine Belt, you might as well replace it too, if you have not already done so; and use a 60" belt as Todd Z has suggested. Check the pullys to see if the bearing are shot, and replace if necessary. Do use some Permatex RTV Thermostat & Water pump sealer on the water pump gasket. Make sure everything is torqued properly (the water pump bolt are 89 ft. lbs.). Make sure you have everything you need, like enough coolant so that you do not have to waste time going after stuff you forgot. And, as stated in previous post, replace the By-Pass hose, which will have to be order as it is not a stock item, and will run you about $15.



"any insight / suggestions before i start the job?"

Your cooling system should be at 16 lbs psi. You might also check the thermostat to make sure it is functioning properly too. When you are done take it to a shop to have the cooling system presure tested. I had mine done at a local Firestone shop since they wanted $30, and Pep Boys wanted $35; so shop around for a good price. That way you'll know if you did the job correctly.



Hope that helps give you enough insight and suggestions. I am sure others will check in on this.

Rodger

 
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I did a waterpump on my Wifes Explorer. Not hard to do. Hardest part is removing the fan. Once you have it removes, the rest is easy as pie.



Make sure you have a bypass hose to replace it.



Honestly, with your description, I do not think the problem is the water pump.



I think it is your radiator.





Tom
 
Hmmm... now i'm really confused cus your suggesting the radiator...

I'm not doubting you or anyone that has had a suggestion to my problem.. just a bit confused..

Let me explain more:



After starting the engine and letting it warm up. TOP Radiator hose is HOT and SWELLS... botttom hose is not as HOT and does not swell up.



When i replaced the TOP hose and thermostat last week. The radiator drained easily. and after filling it all up with new antifreeze i kept the cap open and squeezed the hoses both top and bottom.and with each squeeze i seen motion in antifreeze thru the opened cap area.



During the whole duration the temp gauge seems fine it starts out low and then goes up gradually to a proper level, but never gets too hot to warn me of overheating.



THANKS for all your help and knowledge guys (Rodger & Georgia and Tom, also :Todd Z and JimP from last week too along with anyone else that has info thanks in advance,



rob
 
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FWIW - On March 25th the top water hose blew off because there was too much pressure in the cooling system. Since the radiator is almost a year old we ruled it out. The t-stat is less than a year old. So, if you have not replaced the radiator then it could be a possibility. What caused my upper hose to blow off was the water pump bearing were shot causing it to spin to fast; therefore placing to much pressure in the cooling system. I am not disagreeing with Tom, just stating what happened to me.

 
Believe me i'm taking every comment as a HELPING HAND.. NOT doubtinga a single comment.. just getting as much info as possible... thanks again..

I guess i'm leaning towards one of the 2 now. The RADIATOR and or the WATER PUMP... maybe both; maybe one just waitng on more info from more members.. while i do some more searches onthe net...



rob
 
Make sure everything is torqued properly (the water pump bolt are 89 ft. lbs.).
Click to expand...



Not picking but the correct torque is 89 in.lbs., just don't want to see anyone pop a bolt!



bdad151f81dac9fca2c154308e24cacb.jpg




What caused my upper hose to blow off was the water pump bearing were shot causing it to spin to fast; therefore placing to much pressure in the cooling system.
Click to expand...

You have my attention, Roger. Can you explain why a bad bearing would make a pump spin too fast?

 
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I have just about 70,000 on my '01. The thermostat has been changed. Was asked at the shop I use, if my ST has been running hot or if I've heard a clunk from the fan? They said it looks like it might need to be replaced and too listen for any clunking sound when it goes on and watch temp. Should I have the cooling system flushed soon and have water pump replace and the fan? Oh, how long are the radiator's good for? Thanks.
 
The idler pulley is just that. It has no function except for the serpentine belt to run under, and is located at the top / center just below the thermostat & in front of the by-pass hose. There should be a diagram showing the location of the Idler Pulley on the cross member in front of the radiator. The idler pulley costs around $20. Check your serpentine belt for cracking since you will have it off if you decide to replace the pulley. You can remove the serpentine belt, wiggle the Idler Pulley, and if there is any play in it at all - replace it.

 
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Aloha guys,

IMO, the top rad hose should be hot! Isn't that where the water goes back to the radiator to be cooled? I have always found it to be too hot to hold onto and can see it swell when the engine is reved. Is it possiable that Greg's engine is ok, it sounds as though it is cooling well.

JMO Ed
 
A great site it is. My ST runs great, but I do know this; if you need to spend $100-$200 to take care of several small problems with a car/truck etc....you will keep a several hundred dollar to a thousand or so dollar repair. My goal is, to spend what I need and so far it seems; what I've spent would fall into general maint. based on age and mileage. And the members here, are a GREAT resource of ideas and solutions. My brother is the mechanical one, me, well I'm the :huh::wacko::cool: one.
 
Rob,



I don't know if anyone mentioned this, but if you are building too much pressure in the cooling system maybe the rad cap is bad and sticking it is supposed to regulate the pressure and divert excess coolant to the overflow tank. just a thought
 
Radiator caps are often over looked as an Item to replace.
 
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