Eric Pennal
Well-Known Member
This is a list of tools and materials you will need:
<P>
<UL>
<LI>T25 torx bit with driver handle
<LI>High speed drill
<LI>Countersink drill bit
<LI>Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty
<LI>Silicone sealant
<LI>400 grit sandpaper
<LI>Color coded Ford Touch-up paint
<LI>Masking tape and newspaper
<LI>Metal file (medium or fine cut)
<LI>Phillips screwdriver
<LI>Stainless steel flat-head metric screws (M6 - 1.0 x 20)
</UL>
Start by removing the roof rails using a socket-end screw driver with a T25 torx bit. There are six screws per rail.
Use masking tape and newspaper to protect the area around the threaded inserts you are working on. Fold the edges of the newspaper so it will collect any metal shavings once you start drilling.
Countersink the inserts with a high-speed drill. Check your progress by test fitting one of the stainless steel screws in the hole from time to time. Continue drilling just until the head of the screw sits flush with the top of the threaded insert. Remove the edge of the plastic washer or spacer that is exposed around the perimeter of the insert. In most cases, it will start to detach while you’re drilling.
Use a metal file to clean off the burrs created by the drilling. Also, you can use your fingernail, or anything that won’t scratch the paint, to clean around the edges of the inserts.
Squeeze a dab of silicone sealant into each of the holes, then drive a stainless steel screw in, until tight. I used stainless steel screws to prevent the possibility of rust. Wipe off any excess sealant. A toothpick can be used to clean out the groove around the screw head. Now it’s ready for the Bondo.
Apply a small amount of Bondo onto a screw head and spread it around with your fingertip, making sure to get it down into the crevices. It helps to have a paper towel handy to wipe your fingers with. Don’t apply too much at a time. Let it dry for about an hour, and then apply some more Bondo.
Continue this process until the top of the threaded inserts are completely covered. It only takes two or three applications to accomplish this. Once you are finished, let it dry overnight. The Bondo should be completely hardened before sanding.
Use a small strip of 400 grit sandpaper to smooth off the tops of the inserts. Clean up the dust residue with a brush or small hand-vac, and then remove the masking materials. Once you remove the masking tape and newspaper, use a damp rag to wipe off any remaining dust from the prepared areas.
Originally, I spent a lot of extra time, carefully masking all around the inserts, so I would have an easier time painting around the edges. This turned out to be a waste of time, because after I peeled up the masking tape, the edges weren’t as clean as I’d hoped and I ended up repainting them by hand anyway. The Ford Touch-up paint, matching your body color, is very easy to use and hides brush strokes well. All it takes is a steady hand. Test your technique on a piece of scrap beforehand, if you’re not used to using this paint. Use your own judgment to determine whether you need a second or third coat. I ended up using two coats. Be sure to let it dry between coats.
<P>
<UL>
<LI>T25 torx bit with driver handle
<LI>High speed drill
<LI>Countersink drill bit
<LI>Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty
<LI>Silicone sealant
<LI>400 grit sandpaper
<LI>Color coded Ford Touch-up paint
<LI>Masking tape and newspaper
<LI>Metal file (medium or fine cut)
<LI>Phillips screwdriver
<LI>Stainless steel flat-head metric screws (M6 - 1.0 x 20)
</UL>
Start by removing the roof rails using a socket-end screw driver with a T25 torx bit. There are six screws per rail.
Use masking tape and newspaper to protect the area around the threaded inserts you are working on. Fold the edges of the newspaper so it will collect any metal shavings once you start drilling.
Countersink the inserts with a high-speed drill. Check your progress by test fitting one of the stainless steel screws in the hole from time to time. Continue drilling just until the head of the screw sits flush with the top of the threaded insert. Remove the edge of the plastic washer or spacer that is exposed around the perimeter of the insert. In most cases, it will start to detach while you’re drilling.
Use a metal file to clean off the burrs created by the drilling. Also, you can use your fingernail, or anything that won’t scratch the paint, to clean around the edges of the inserts.
Squeeze a dab of silicone sealant into each of the holes, then drive a stainless steel screw in, until tight. I used stainless steel screws to prevent the possibility of rust. Wipe off any excess sealant. A toothpick can be used to clean out the groove around the screw head. Now it’s ready for the Bondo.
Apply a small amount of Bondo onto a screw head and spread it around with your fingertip, making sure to get it down into the crevices. It helps to have a paper towel handy to wipe your fingers with. Don’t apply too much at a time. Let it dry for about an hour, and then apply some more Bondo.
Continue this process until the top of the threaded inserts are completely covered. It only takes two or three applications to accomplish this. Once you are finished, let it dry overnight. The Bondo should be completely hardened before sanding.
Use a small strip of 400 grit sandpaper to smooth off the tops of the inserts. Clean up the dust residue with a brush or small hand-vac, and then remove the masking materials. Once you remove the masking tape and newspaper, use a damp rag to wipe off any remaining dust from the prepared areas.
Originally, I spent a lot of extra time, carefully masking all around the inserts, so I would have an easier time painting around the edges. This turned out to be a waste of time, because after I peeled up the masking tape, the edges weren’t as clean as I’d hoped and I ended up repainting them by hand anyway. The Ford Touch-up paint, matching your body color, is very easy to use and hides brush strokes well. All it takes is a steady hand. Test your technique on a piece of scrap beforehand, if you’re not used to using this paint. Use your own judgment to determine whether you need a second or third coat. I ended up using two coats. Be sure to let it dry between coats.
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