Chris Crawford
Member
My rotors keep warping and I was wondering what type of rotor would help with this problem?
Chris
Chris
Rotors
- Thread starter Chris Crawford
- Start date
Help Support Ford SportTrac Forum:
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2003
- Messages
- 22,485
- Reaction score
- 812
- Location
- Long Island, NY
- What engine do you have?
- V8 engine
- What year is your Sport Trac?
- 2010
- What Generation is your Sport Trac?
- 2n Gen Owner
If you speed, and are hard on the brakes, hit puddles, nothing will help...
ALSO since you have a 2002 and rear drum brakes, it is super important to keep the rears adjusted well, if you don't and the fronts do more of the work than normal you will crash rotors.....
Could be driving habits too...
But a set of drilled and slotted are designed to keep cooler...
Todd Z
ALSO since you have a 2002 and rear drum brakes, it is super important to keep the rears adjusted well, if you don't and the fronts do more of the work than normal you will crash rotors.....
Could be driving habits too...
But a set of drilled and slotted are designed to keep cooler...
Todd Z
Chris Crawford
Member
I'm not hard on my brakes at all but I do alot of city driving. I was just wondering if drilled and slotted are the best or just slotted and what brand.
Chris
Chris
The type of pad you use makes a difference. I am at 80,000 miles and I am still on the original rotors with no hint of warping.
Tom
Tom
Chris Crawford
Member
I'm durrently running ceramic pads. I'm just looking for the best combination! The ford dealer screwed my rotors up and I think they put a set of cheap rotors on.
Chris
Chris
Andrew Tollison 3
Well-Known Member
sorry to jack post, since we are talking about rotors, what would cause this grove in my rear rotor
[Broken External Image]:
[Broken External Image]:
[Broken External Image]:
[Broken External Image]:
WXMotorSports DecalsPartsAccs
Well-Known Member
I sell PowerSlot Rotors
Jim Dolinski
Active Member
I went with new drill and slotted rotors with ceramic pads at 98,000 miles and it has been stopping better than new since.
[Broken External Image]:
[Broken External Image]:
Andrew Tollison 3
Well-Known Member
What all is involved when changing the rotors?
Chase Straw
Active Member
4wd not much is involved with 2wd there is a little more to do. have you ever repacked a wheel bearing? if you have than you can switch out rotors on a 2wd trac
Dan Chatten
Active Member
80K and the original rotors? WoW !
I just crossed 60K. This is the second brake job - both times the rotors were shot. Although, for the sake of full disclosure, the first time Ford covered the entire job on a defect issue at around 30K. I'm not sure why my time is 30K. I don't think that I am hard on the brakes, but who knows. With this brake job I noticed one difference right away vs. the last one that I had done with Ford. After putting on ... oh say... 500 miles. I do not see ANY hint of brake dust. My front rims were a MESS all the time prior to this most recent brake job. I tend to look at other ST's when I am driving and notice that others have the same issue.
I just crossed 60K. This is the second brake job - both times the rotors were shot. Although, for the sake of full disclosure, the first time Ford covered the entire job on a defect issue at around 30K. I'm not sure why my time is 30K. I don't think that I am hard on the brakes, but who knows. With this brake job I noticed one difference right away vs. the last one that I had done with Ford. After putting on ... oh say... 500 miles. I do not see ANY hint of brake dust. My front rims were a MESS all the time prior to this most recent brake job. I tend to look at other ST's when I am driving and notice that others have the same issue.
Jeff C
Well-Known Member
Just waiting on a few more parts before I do my whole front end, including brakes. New control arms and ball joints, new bearings and seals, install the camber kit and get that fixed, black powder coated calipers, performance pads, stainless lines, and these guys...
[Broken External Image]:
[Broken External Image]:
Sean M 2
Active Member
Sorry to steal the thread, but Todd mentioned adjusting the rear drum brakes. How do you do this? I have a 2002 that needs a brake job, and while I'm changing out the fronts I would like to adjust the rears as well. Thanks.
Jeremiah Morgan
Active Member
On Drum brakes if they are working correctly...BAck up and stop couple times and they should adjust themselves out if needed...if they are too tight then back them up and repeat first step..
Ron N
Well-Known Member
I think the drums on our ST's do not self adjust. You have to pop the plug out and turn the star to tighten. I can't remember off hand if it is up or down.But it only goes one way.As I remember the plug is on the inside towards the rear and made of rubber._Ron
Michael Cacioppo
Well-Known Member
Sport_Trac_Drew, you may have caught a piece of sand under the pad that caused the croove over time. Inspect you pads.
Jeff C,
Where are you getting stainless lines. I have not found anyone that makes them for our vehicles.
Tom
Where are you getting stainless lines. I have not found anyone that makes them for our vehicles.
Tom
Jeff C
Well-Known Member
I found a guy on eBay selling them. He had mixed reviews, and I took a chance. Filed a claim with PayPal a week ago for non-delivery. I guess I'm just hoping the seller will do the right thing...
Keep me updated. SS Brake hoses make a big difference. It eliminates the spongy feel and reduces brake fade even more. The pedal on my Escort GT is rock solid.
On that vehicle, I have Hawk Ferro-Carbon SP Street pads, Drilled/slotted rotors, SS Brake hoses, and Painted calipers (Not that the paint makes a performance difference). Thew braking ability is incredable.
Tom
On that vehicle, I have Hawk Ferro-Carbon SP Street pads, Drilled/slotted rotors, SS Brake hoses, and Painted calipers (Not that the paint makes a performance difference). Thew braking ability is incredable.
Tom
