So I was playing in the mud...

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Josh mcleod

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Today I found a nice little spot to get my truck dirty. The mud was a lot deeper then I initially thought, in fact my bumper was pushing mud. I had her in 4x4L and she crawled like a champ. My 33x12.5 duratracs really suprised me!

At one point I was at WOT and hit some very deep Mud and I could'nt keep the rpm's up. It only happened for a few seconds but stalled shortly after. My question is, did I stall because the engine is underpowered for the tire size and gear ratio or maybe some other reason? After I stalled and restarted I really thought my Trac was stuck. Considering it has open diffs, it preformed really well traction-wise.
 
...the engine is under powered for the tire size and gear ratio or maybe some other reason



Yes. 33 inch tires are not for what the drive train was designed. "Mudding" is not for what the vehicle was designed.



When the tire size is increased the differential ratio should be changed by at least the same percentage to compensate for the increased rolling resistance and weight.
 
So basically your saying I need this? http://modd.me/product/02-05-2dr-explorersport-trac-supercharger-kit/
 
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4.56 gears would be more efficient and beneficial. A supercharger will just allow you to throw more stress at the transmission struggling to push 33" tires through mud.
 
4:56 is exactly what I was realistically thinking. I called a local shop about going from 4:10 to 4:56. They quoted me 300$ for the rear and 600$ for the front, that's just labour! I do all my own wrenching on my trac but I think differentials are beyond my skill unfortunately.
 
That's not bad. Get quality parts, else you may have some noise.



You will notice the difference with the ratio change.
 
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Since you chose Duratracs instead of a dedicated mud terrain, I assume your driving style would match a limited slip rather than a locker. A limited slip will provide essentially the same traction advantages in mud as a full locker but is less likely to damage your axle and is much more streetable as well as much better than a locker in snow/ice. If you intend to go rock crawling, go full locker.
 
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A limited slip might provide "essentially" the same traction advantage as a "full locker", depending on the consistency if the mud. Wet mud, probably; heavy mud, the locking differential (automatic locker) has the advantage of driving both wheels (on an axle) regardless of resistance. Of course, the locking differential has the advantage for off-road driving and can be a pain on-road. Remember that most automatic locking differentials do automatically unlock when no torque is applied, so while they are a bit rough on-road, they don't typically do damage.



Unless "patchy" (intermittent) ice and snow, a limited slip isn't much better than a locking differential as there isn't (typically) enough friction to keep one wheel from spinning and both wheels tend to slip and then the vehicle slides (true on slippery wet roads when not minding the accelerator as well). Open differentials work well on ice and snow because one wheel (the least traction, driven wheel) can keep the vehicle from sliding side-to-side when traction is lost even though there may be no forward movement (safety over performance).



Selectable locking differentials are an option for those needing fully driven wheels, at times, and the behavior of an open differential nominally. These tend to be the most expensive.
 
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I choose the duratrac's because I live in Manitoba and our winters are long and cold with plenty of snow/ice. I really do want some variation of traction adder but I've read so much conflicting opinions of their winter performance on icey roads. I'm very comfortable with how my truck reacts on ice except from a stand still. I know the 12.5" wide tires don't help me much on ice and snow. I think I'm afraid my truck will react completely different with an LS. I want the extra traction but not at the cost of winter driving safety.
 
Mine has a limited slip and you are correct in that it will react differently on ice and snow. (In 2WD) it's a bit squirrely off the line on ice and slippery roads, but completely manageable (especially using the second gear start option).



As noted above, your best option for the long winters is an open differential.
 
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I think I'm gonna keep it open. I really need to re gear though. Because it's so expensive I'll likely do the rear first until I can afford the front. I know that's like buying glasses but only getting one lens, I get it. I think I should be ok as long as I don't use 4x4. Maybe take out the fuse for 4x4 just to be safe. I can go through the summer without 4x4 but will need to get the front done for winter. By the way, I'm not the kind of driver who uses 4x4 generously. I only use it at icey intersection from a stand still and the odd extreme situation. Maybe I'm wrong but I've always assumed these 4x4 systems aren't designed for continuous use or highway use, I think AWD is for the daily driver.

 
... I've always assumed these 4x4 systems aren't designed for continuous use or highway use ...



Mostly true - they can be used continuously on surfaces that allow slipping (dirt, snow, ice, mud, etc.), but because the transfer case is not differentiated, not on paved roads and the like.



I think not using the 4WD with different ratios in the differentials is okay. Any one know if there is a problem with this (i.e. the front v. rear ABS sensors or front differential driving the transfer case chain)?



Oh - I meant completely manageable.
 
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I remember when my truck was stock the transfer case would "thud" occasionally while in 4x4. I was told by the local ford shop that it was due to my rear tires being slightly more worn then the front tires. I've never had any problems are the transfers case occasionally sound like I hit a big rock. And that's basically why I stay away from 4x4 unless it's very brief or extreme conditions, so far so good



 
You should not have to "stay away" from the 4WD. It's a good system. Replace all the tires at the same time and rotate them regularly.
 
Canadiantrucker I get the same "thud" in 4x4 too. I was told its the front diff gears. I should find out this friday coming as I'm taking it to the dealership to finally try to figure out this bloody vibration I still have....and can't seem to get rid of!!!
 
Im 80% sure the thud is coming from the transfer case. It feels like it's directly under my seat. It's always been there, even after new tires. It doesn't happen often but definitely doesn't sound healthy.
 

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