Spark Plug removal tips

[John Zuber]

Well, just got finished doing a plug and wire change on my 2004...first time they were touched. Overall a PITA job...especially plug number two. Here are some tips:



General: I found that the most difficult part was getting the old boot off the old plugs. I think Ford super-glued them on. Gap and prep all the new plugs...and arranged your new wire kit. Snip off the old wire at the plug boot and twist the old boot the best you can. If you can slice the old boot using a knife (which I did on a few) the old boot will come off a lot easier. Work one plug at a time and use only 3/8" ratchets, extensions, etc. I would remove the old plug, install the new, and then remove the old wire. Matching up the length I would install the new wire routing it the same. Do one at a time. I removed the passenger tire to work on plug 2 and 3, so take a garbage bag and cover the rotor and lug assembly. That way I could work up against it without getting junk all over my shirt.



Specific: Plug number two was a bitch for me. Honestly I wish Ford had placed that transmission dipstick tube in my glove box because that just made plug number 2 the main culprit. I ended up removing the passenger tire, removed the small three-tab water/mud flap, and worked under the fender. I don't like using a universal since that places side load on what you're turning, but that's what I used for plug two and three.



I thought plug three was going to be the problem child, but it was easy compared to plug two. Although I couldn't use my short extension, I did use a universal to add more socket length. I used a nice steak knife to slice the boot since there is little room to pull.



Guess I'm getting old, but I really don't want to do this job again.

 

[Jeffksf B]

I assume you went through the wheel well for easier access?

 

[Yardsale]

I found that the most difficult part was getting the old boot off the old plugs.

Agree!



I do the same thing - remove the wheel and fender skirt.



I use a 3/8" drive 3/4" socket on the outer hex of the spark plug socket. This gives just the right amount of extension with no need for a flex extension. A 1/2" drive wrench with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter could be used for a bit more extension. Try different combinations.



If it provides enough of an angle, a wobble extension might work better than a flex extension. Far less side loading.

 

[Todd Z]

Agree with Yard, best way to do it. Rip the old boots off with pliers and replace at same time.



Done deal.



Todd Z

 

[Jerry G.]

Well, just got finished doing a plug and wire change on my 2004...first time they were touched. Overall a PITA job...especially plug number two. Here are some tips:



General: I found that the most difficult part was getting the old boot off the old plugs. I think Ford super-glued them on. Gap and prep all the new plugs...and arranged your new wire kit. Snip off the old wire at the plug boot and twist the old boot the best you can. If you can slice the old boot using a knife (which I did on a few) the old boot will come off a lot easier. Work one plug at a time and use only 3/8" ratchets, extensions, etc. I would remove the old plug, install the new, and then remove the old wire. Matching up the length I would install the new wire routing it the same. Do one at a time. I removed the passenger tire to work on plug 2 and 3, so take a garbage bag and cover the rotor and lug assembly. That way I could work up against it without getting junk all over my shirt.



Specific: Plug number two was a bitch for me. Honestly I wish Ford had placed that transmission dipstick tube in my glove box because that just made plug number 2 the main culprit. I ended up removing the passenger tire, removed the small three-tab water/mud flap, and worked under the fender. I don't like using a universal since that places side load on what you're turning, but that's what I used for plug two and three.



I thought plug three was going to be the problem child, but it was easy compared to plug two. Although I couldn't use my short extension, I did use a universal to add more socket length. I used a nice steak knife to slice the boot since there is little room to pull.



Guess I'm getting old, but I really don't want to do this job again.

 

[Jerry G.]

Thank You John. I have an 07 ST famous for plug breaking . I have the plugs ,I looked at how deep they are in the engine housing , I considered how old I am and how my body often hurts . I also read your thread . I have a good automotive garage nearby that has done work for me in the past and if I bring them my plugs I know they would be happy to install them . I still change my own oil , I replaced sway bar bushings the other day ,new brakes last year and rotated my tires yesterday . My Arthur is telling me about it today LOL. I'm 75 in 6 more months . My wife thinks I should STOP before I hurt myself and she is probably right . So after I change my differential fluids and transfer case oil, I think thats it .

 

[Kirk Rich]

Thanks! Just changed mine for the first time on my 2005 after reading this and the Project in the Forum.

The three on the drivers side and front passenger plugs only took roughly 30 minutes.
But OMG that #2 was no joke. While it was difficult to get out , My trouble was getting a plug back in. After failing for over 2 hours, I must have done some damage to the first few threads because a plug was Not going in there.
Side Note that the Heater control valve also snapped when I must have brushed against it. That was an easy $28 fix.

Had to have my truck towed home from where I was working on it. Wasn't sure if I'd have to pay to have someone fix it, pull the head, or what.

I ordered a Lisle 20020 Limited Access Spark Plug Chaser for next day pick up at Orielly Auto.
That thing was my Saving Grace. I was able to fix the threads in about 5 minutes and get the plug in. What a Pain!
All plugs/wires changed and truck is running noticeably better.