Speaker pods for doors 2002 ford sport trac

[carlthess40]

Hi
I need to have some or find some plans for some speakers pods for a 6.5” woofer
I’m near Orlando Florida. So if someone close to me know how to make them or has any for sale that would be great. The drivers I have are to deep to install into the doors. They are about 4.5” deep and about 6lbs each. So they are no lightweights. Lol
Any help would be great. I don’t want to put them down at the e-break as I use it a lot
And I don’t want them just attached to the door panels , I want them mounted to the steel of the door because of the weight of them here’s the drivers or a pic of the box

 

[Todd Z]

Id sell them and get smaller ones.

 

[carlthess40]

Id sell them and get smaller ones.

Tell the truth, the quality of these are so nice I just can’t. I’ll find a way to make pods
I’m disabled and things just take my a lot longer to do. That’s for your input

 

[swshawaii]

Agree Todd. Even if you manage to get them custom fit, you will likely have window or other clearance issues.

 

[carlthess40]

Ive found a few pre made pods that will handle a driver as deep as 5” at a angle and with a rim so they can be bolted to the steel part of the door. And I’m finding some easy diy types that will be easer for my hands and I will not have to use any fiberglass type of supplies . As I love working with wood and have most of, if not all the tools for making these with wood
As for the tweeters, they are four different pods that come with the kits . My question is this. How much, if any, should I angle the mid driver for SQ sound? I don’t want them pointing right at me. My dsp units that I’m installing will help with the off axes sound of the mid frequencies. I’m thinking maybe about any where from 4dg to 10dg of angle
These speaker kits come with some great steel grills and mounting rings for them and I have spay paint the same color and texture as the door panels of my trucks interior
but my main focus is because of the weight of the drivers and the sound levels that I’ll be playing them at, I want them attach to the steel of the door and not hanging from the door panel
I’m determined to use these speakers because I feel that the quality of the materials they used is really really good and I only paid $60 for three pairs and from what I could find on line they sell at discounted prices of around 122 to €160 and the list price I think was around €230
I know I’m making this harder then it should be. I’m on a fixed income and have to deal with what I have
I’ve done some free-air testing of the mids against a lot of different types of drivers that I have , ranging from 4 inch to 10 inch mid drivers made from Alpine, peerless, Klipsch
And infinity, EV and Yamaha and lastly eminence and I find the sound to be very warm and the sound is one of the better out of all of these other drivers I will do some testing
In a week or two
I will run my REW program with my mini usb mic and see what the frequency plots are on and off axis for them and compare them with some of the other drivers I have laying around , and that’s a lot of them. Lol
I bet I have over 30 different size and brand of drivers laying around my house packed in boxes and on shelves and so on

 

[swshawaii]

Would LOVE to see your completed project, or even better a step by step with pics. Hope this works out for you.
Good luck!

 

[carlthess40]

Thanks for the help and info
I will try my best to do a photo journal of it
So far I have done the sound Deadning of my doors and a lot of people may laugh at me
A lot of people may disagree with what I use and a lot of people may tell me I’m doing it the wrong way but this is what I have done so far. I grow up very very poor. So we learned at a very young age to make do with what we have, and that’s what I do and what I teach my 3 kids to do
I use the carpet padding for the inside of the doors, not the cheap stuff, the kind that is 100% mildew in moisture resistant, I use 3M headliner glue. You spay both parts and let it dry and then you attach them together
I will use a small round can or a 2” pvc pipe cut down to a few inches long and roll it all over it to make sure it’s all attached and flatten down. This is for the inside of the outer door skin. Then where the factory uses the vapor barrier on the inside of the door for the door panels. I use this stuff that is used for under the wood floor planks that you buy at home depot or where every. They are all 4 feet long. I have a few shops near me that when the crews do a job they always have why to much of this padding for the job
This stuff is also mildew and water resistant ones side is a black rubbery type material size it is a shiny silver aluminum looking outside which is also used in designed as a vapor barrier between concrete floors and the engineered flooring material that is going to be used. I get all this stuff for free and it works
I did a test in my sons car with my spl meter and my mini mkII mic. His car had those god awful 20” tires that made so much noise that at 75 mph you could not even talk with the windows up. I did all of what I talked about of the Materials in method of installation and it dropped the DB’s down from 100db to a nice calm 70db. And it only added around 15lbs to his car. And that was only doing the doors and the trunk.

 

[swshawaii]

Don't recall seeing a custom DOOR speaker installation like this on the forum. Sure you will have many following.

Really looking forward to it. Thanks!

 

[carlthess40]

Here’s a ruff up for the first amp and makes out for the power block and ground block
And I’ll use my old 3sity1 dsp unit
In the end it will have a 5 channel , 4 channel
And a 2 channel soundstream amps
Then I’ll get started on the door pods
This is just a few of the parts that I’m trying to mock up for the power side. It’s going to be hard to find a way for a place for a sub
I may have to put some of the amps under the front or back seats. I hate doing that.
As for the subs I may only use one 10” or two or one 8”. I’m not looking for the hair blowing sub setup. This is going to be for Sound Quality only. I will most likely use two dsp units in the build and not use the crossovers that are with the mac 2.16 speakers. Not sure yet

 

[swshawaii]

Very impressive, love what I'm seeing here. Honestly, I haven't followed car-fi for 10-15 years, but back then you couldn't get much better than Soundstream for amplification, at least in terms of sonic quality. RF wasn't far behind. Just to give you an idea, a/d/s speakers are what I was using back then. a/d/s is Chinese garbage now and owned by Directed Electronics Inc. (DEI). Thanks for all the pics, really adds to your project.

 

[carlthess40]

Wells it’s a (stuff20gals in a 5gal bucket job for sure. Lol. And thanks

 

[carlthess40]

How am I going to fit all of this stuff in here and still have a sub?

 

[carlthess40]

Do you think the audio file guys will freak when I cut up a 1200 dollar speaker cable for this install. Lol. It’s 49’ long and don’t have anything else to use it for , So why not. Chop chop it goes. Lol
I can fit all these amps and dsp units behind the seat. But what can I do about the 8” peerless drivers for my lows. Was thinking of Installing them in the back doors with the mac2.16 speakers. So I may have to make something to isolate the 6.5 mid Woofer from the 8 inch sub woofer’s ,which they are not really subs there are more a woofer
I’m not looking for anything below 40 or 30HZ anyway
So the list is
One 2 channel soundstream amp
One 4 channel soundstream amp
One 5 channel soundstream amp
Rockford fosgate 3sity1 dsp unit
Mini digi tech dsp and Digital to analog board for the lows
MIT speaker cable
0 gage power cable and ground
Power block with volt meter in it
Ground block. Round volt meter
Two different sup volume control knobs
One with the volt meter, one will work with the 3sity1 unit and other with the sub amp
I know I’m missing a ton of items so please chime in with any thoughts you may have