Ryan P
Member
Can you make 6x9 speakers fit into a st?
Speakers
- Thread starter Ryan P
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Jacob Dryer
Well-Known Member
Yes but you will have to cut the door some, or a mounting plate might work but I haven't tried.
Chris Smith 8
Active Member
Check with Crutchfield.com. They can tell you if the model speakers you have will fit the place you want to put them and they can sell you the adapter plates, etc.
Korey Kreiter
Active Member
What year? I think it's possible if you make MDF adaptors. I was also thinking of trying some. I would never cut the sheet metal. In the 2nd gens, you'd have to be careful about tweeters sticking up higher than the speaker frame -- which is common among 6x9s. You also have to worry about mounting depth.
Jerry Gerner 2
Well-Known Member
You don't have to cut the doors, put them in the backside and drill the holes for the screws. You can also make a spacers plates for the speakers for the frontside of doors. :smile0006:
eric huskey 2
Active Member
I made a plate to fit 6 1/2 in the front doors and bought an adapter from crutchfiled to fit 5 1/4 in the back doors. I'm curious to know if 6x9's would fit. That would be a mod on my list. Then there would be no need for a subwoofer!:banana:
Jerry Gerner 2
Well-Known Member
6x9"'s will fit, come springtime that's one thing I'm doing when I put the dynamat thru out the truck. I'm ALS gonna build a box for behind the rear seats. And probably sell the under seat box that I built. :smile0006:
Korey Kreiter
Active Member
6x9 are no replacement for a sub -- unless you actually buy 6x9 subs.
Gary Hart
Active Member
@Jerry... there's a lot more room to be had back there behind the rear seats if you remove the rear kick-panel and the spring-loaded flap things which bridge the gap when the rear seats are folded down... also the black plastic divider thing on the floor that the kick-panel and spring-flaps screw into.
I removed all those things, built a sealed .47 cu. ft. enclosure for a Pioneer Premier 10" Shallow mount Single Voice Coil 2 Ohms.
The dimensions were...
3.5" TopDepth
5" BottomDepth
12" Height
30" Width
Made w/ 3/4" MDF
If I was to build the box again I'd try the BottomDepth at 6" and the TopDepth at like 3.25" and I'd probably try to make the circle cutout as low as possible. The trim ring leaves an indentation in the back of the seat and there's a faint hint of the top of the woofer cone surround tickling the back seat's a little at the top of it's excursion.
Also of note: I have a Toddler so I stuck with Height of 12" so I wasn't covering up the latch hooks for securing his Car seat back there. You can get away with going 13" and still having access to that hook points. I'm contemplating redo'ing the box at some point to go ported... which requires a .65 cu. ft. minimum, but for *ME* to do that I'd have to use some fiberglass as well I think, as I HAVE to be able to put the 60-side rear seat down for transporting my dogs and you can't put too much amp stuff under the seats and still go all the way down. My little amp for the door speakers fits under the rear seat fine though. But my sub amp has to stay on that rear wall.
I'm feeding the sub with a HiTron 1000.1 amp. I have a .5 Farad capacitor right now. but I think it needs a 1 or 2 Farad cap since it feeds both amps.
After putting in your sub there will be A TON of rattles and buzzes that will pop-up. To combat them I put two layers of Damplifier PRO (www dot secondskinaudio dot com) all across the rear and on the inner and outer panels of all the doors. This made a wonderful difference. If you put this stuff on... buy the wodden roller they sell for applying. I couldn't find a suitable similar replacement tool at HDepot OR LOWES.
Don't even bother running an amp and sub unless you have a headunit that gives you low-level RCA outputs to input into your amp. There was a SUBSTANTIAL and NOTICEABLE difference in sound quality and volume when I finally yanked my 6 CD Audiophile headunit that I was using with Hi-to-Low RCA converters... and put in a singe-DIN Sony CDX-GT630UI (Front USB port! I bought a 16 GB thumb drive, Music for weeks!).
I first bought this particular unit to upgrade the wife's XTERRA. Liked it so much I asked her to have Santa bring me one! It has 3 low-level RCA outputs. (Fr/Rr/Sub) and only like $124 at SonicElectronix dot com.
BTW... another very neat thing about this headunit is that it happens to have HPF and LPF's you can turn-on if you want. I think during my previous install (using the Hi-to-Low converters) I blew the rear doors woofer part of the 6x8's because the stock headunit wasn't filtering sub-sonic frequencies out, and I was playing BASS intensive tracks to test my new subwoofer install. After I got the new headunit installed... I was able to tell it to turn-on the HPF (High Pass Filter) and selected about 100Hz and it stopped sending frequencies below that to the doors, only to the sub! So now I've bought myself some time to spare before I have to buy new 6x8's for the rear! How cool is that!?
I removed all those things, built a sealed .47 cu. ft. enclosure for a Pioneer Premier 10" Shallow mount Single Voice Coil 2 Ohms.
The dimensions were...
3.5" TopDepth
5" BottomDepth
12" Height
30" Width
Made w/ 3/4" MDF
If I was to build the box again I'd try the BottomDepth at 6" and the TopDepth at like 3.25" and I'd probably try to make the circle cutout as low as possible. The trim ring leaves an indentation in the back of the seat and there's a faint hint of the top of the woofer cone surround tickling the back seat's a little at the top of it's excursion.
Also of note: I have a Toddler so I stuck with Height of 12" so I wasn't covering up the latch hooks for securing his Car seat back there. You can get away with going 13" and still having access to that hook points. I'm contemplating redo'ing the box at some point to go ported... which requires a .65 cu. ft. minimum, but for *ME* to do that I'd have to use some fiberglass as well I think, as I HAVE to be able to put the 60-side rear seat down for transporting my dogs and you can't put too much amp stuff under the seats and still go all the way down. My little amp for the door speakers fits under the rear seat fine though. But my sub amp has to stay on that rear wall.
I'm feeding the sub with a HiTron 1000.1 amp. I have a .5 Farad capacitor right now. but I think it needs a 1 or 2 Farad cap since it feeds both amps.
After putting in your sub there will be A TON of rattles and buzzes that will pop-up. To combat them I put two layers of Damplifier PRO (www dot secondskinaudio dot com) all across the rear and on the inner and outer panels of all the doors. This made a wonderful difference. If you put this stuff on... buy the wodden roller they sell for applying. I couldn't find a suitable similar replacement tool at HDepot OR LOWES.
Don't even bother running an amp and sub unless you have a headunit that gives you low-level RCA outputs to input into your amp. There was a SUBSTANTIAL and NOTICEABLE difference in sound quality and volume when I finally yanked my 6 CD Audiophile headunit that I was using with Hi-to-Low RCA converters... and put in a singe-DIN Sony CDX-GT630UI (Front USB port! I bought a 16 GB thumb drive, Music for weeks!).
I first bought this particular unit to upgrade the wife's XTERRA. Liked it so much I asked her to have Santa bring me one! It has 3 low-level RCA outputs. (Fr/Rr/Sub) and only like $124 at SonicElectronix dot com.
BTW... another very neat thing about this headunit is that it happens to have HPF and LPF's you can turn-on if you want. I think during my previous install (using the Hi-to-Low converters) I blew the rear doors woofer part of the 6x8's because the stock headunit wasn't filtering sub-sonic frequencies out, and I was playing BASS intensive tracks to test my new subwoofer install. After I got the new headunit installed... I was able to tell it to turn-on the HPF (High Pass Filter) and selected about 100Hz and it stopped sending frequencies below that to the doors, only to the sub! So now I've bought myself some time to spare before I have to buy new 6x8's for the rear! How cool is that!?
