Sway Bar Linkage/Brakes

Help Support SportTrac.org:

Austin Sewell

Member
1st Gen Owner
V6 Engine
Joined
Nov 5, 2014
Messages
47
Reaction score
0
Location
Carrollton, GA
So, at 184k my Georgia-driven (no snow/corrosion) ST popped a front sway bar bushing.... Maybe it was because of the body lift, who knows. I am 2WD and the ride got considerably worse as the play in the sway bar linkage was moving and it made a hideous clunk up front. Luckily, the kit for both sides was $27 at Summit with ridiculously fast shipping. I got the Moog 7275 kit if anyone else needs to order it. Relatively easy install; jack, jack stands under B body mount jack point, remove wheels, remove old hardware with vice grips on bottom to keep from rotating. The hardest part was putting everything back on and having extra bolt length to tie it all together. To get the length, you've got to put the opposite side wheel on and jack the side you're working on (I put my jack under the lower ball joint crown nut, wouldn't recommend but it worked). This flattens out the control arms that you're working on and gives enough extra thread to work with. Putting the screws in top down is easier so you don't have to hold it in. I did my front brake pads (and discovered a leaking piston on drivers side) as well while I was at it. Install time - 1 hour give or take by myself with no air tools. Not very hard to do.



As always, keep on Trac'n!
 

Ed Fenwick

Well-Known Member
1st Gen Owner
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
897
Reaction score
23
Location
Kea'au, HI
Good to know, thanks. I have been hearing that noise for a while. I will fix it soon.

God bless Ed
 

EddieS'04

Well-Known Member
1st Gen Owner
V6 Engine
2 Wheel Drive
Joined
Sep 26, 2004
Messages
17,655
Reaction score
250
Location
Pasadena, TX
FYI,

When you raise or lower a vehicle. Do not use stock or oem replacement end links. You need to replace your front sway bar end links, bolts and bushings. With a kit that levels the ends of the sway bar. If you dont you will break them again or bend the bolts or destroy the bushings rather quickly. It has to do with the geometry of the sway bar movment with suspension movement. Plus the sway bar will respond correctly. You will notice the difference.

If you stay factory ride hieght oem kits are ok.
 

Austin Sewell

Member
1st Gen Owner
V6 Engine
Joined
Nov 5, 2014
Messages
47
Reaction score
0
Location
Carrollton, GA
Good to know Eddie, got any recommendations for the length I need or a kit part # I could use with about a 2.5" TT? I noticed the bar wasn't too level on the bolts but it wasn't bad enough for me to think I needed to get longer bolts.
 

swshawaii

Well-Known Member
1st Gen Owner
V6 Engine
2 Wheel Drive
Joined
Feb 27, 2009
Messages
5,311
Reaction score
220
Location
Kailua-Oahu, Hawaii
The center sleeve determines length. Moog K7275 uses 7/16" hardware and bushings.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Yardsale

Well-Known Member
1st Gen Owner
V6 Engine
4 Wheel Drive
Joined
Sep 26, 2003
Messages
1,863
Reaction score
2
Location
Fullerton, CA
Is a different length end link needed with a torsion twist (as opposed to a lift kit or modified suspension)? The travel is the same; only the resting height is changed, so the geometry should be the same.



Thinking about this, if the end link length is increased to level the anti-sway bar ends at rest with the TT, then, when the suspension travels up, the bar will raise higher with respect to stock. Depending on the clearance, I think this may not be good. Yes, there will be some torque on the bushings at rest, but such is the way this sort of modification (never ideal).
 

EddieS'04

Well-Known Member
1st Gen Owner
V6 Engine
2 Wheel Drive
Joined
Sep 26, 2004
Messages
17,655
Reaction score
250
Location
Pasadena, TX
Not so Yardsale. I have been building my own end links for years. Lifted never a problem with chassis interference. Maybe lowered, depending on the car. then again when you lower it. your end links and swaybar ends and higher in the chassis anyway. And need to be shortend.



Sometimes you can take the measurements and find the right aftermarket kit. With the right length bolt and center sleeve. Sometimes I have cut the center sleeve to level the bar ends. Providing enough threads on the bolt. I have threaded the existing bolts. Same when I needed more center sleeve. With 7/16" bolt, I buy some 3/8" pipe and make the center sleeve the length needed. I have at times had to buy seperate 7/16" grade8 bolts.



The truth is if the bar is level at the ends as factory. the ber will react better. Also in some cases your bushing wont tear up from being one sided pinched, when tightend. When you lift or lower and stay with oem end links



Not trying to out smart anyone. But I have been doing this for maybe 25yrs. For myself and freinds. It works.
 

swshawaii

Well-Known Member
1st Gen Owner
V6 Engine
2 Wheel Drive
Joined
Feb 27, 2009
Messages
5,311
Reaction score
220
Location
Kailua-Oahu, Hawaii
Anyone figure out why Explorer front sway bar eyelets are angled down? Only vehicle I've seen like this. Have been asking for years without an explanation.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Top