Tranny fluid capacity

[Michal H]

My '04 4x4 ST is nearing 100k miles, and I am seriously thinking about dropping the pan and changing the filter and fluid.

Looking in my owners manual, it calls for 10 quarts of fluid.

But this project only mentions 5 quarts.

http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/TrannyFluidFilter/index.html



Why the difference in fluid quantity?

 

[EddieS'04]

may be the difference of a complete change and just a pan drop. About half will be in the torque convertor...

 

[Michal H]

Alright.

Now what good brand of synthetic do you recommend?

I assume the syn can mix with the original in the converter and not cause shifting problems.

Or should I not mix them?

 

[EddieS'04]

Mercon V only. Some here prefer motorcraft. IMO any major brand with the ford mercon v specs.

 

[Robert Caffyn]

The Ford transmission fluid is a synthetic. I did a complete flush, pan drop/filter and it used 16 quarts. Thats only because of the "flush". As Eddie sez, any good synthetic fluid will work as long as it meets Ford specs. There's a bit of controversy over a filter change and refill or a complete flush of the tranny. Mine worked noticebly better after the flush. Choose your own path young Jedi and let us know the outcome. Bob

 

[Michal H]

Hmm... What is the best way to do a complete flush? I would prefer to get all the old fluid out and all brand new back in if possible.

I did a drain & filter change on my old tbird back in the day, but I know I still left some old fluid in the cooler, lines, and converter.

I would really prefer a full fluid exchange if possible.

 

[Robert Caffyn]

Should be done by a qualified shop(one you trust). They need to cut into one of the cooling lines and install a special fitting that will allow a fluid exchange pump to do its thing. Check the repair shops around your area and actually talk to them and look at thier equipment. Have them explain it all. I went with a larger service station that (1) is owned by a friend and neighbor. (2) seek out a shop that does a lot of buisness. (3) make sure the shop is clean, has ASE certified technicians and get a fair price for doing it. I paid I think, somewhere less than $400, $370 maybe, I don't remember. The cost is mostly in the fluid. Let them do the filter and all, then you'll have a warranty on thier work. This is one thing I didn't want to mess with. Good luck, Bob

 

[Bill Koonce]

From Popular Mechanics:



"The single most important thing you can do to head off big-bucks transmission repairs is to change the ATF on a regular basis.



Some carmakers have backed down from the unrealistic 100,000-mile trans fluid change interval recommended in the past. Every 30,000 miles is much more reasonable. If you tow heavy loads in hot weather, you might even think about annual changes."



http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/1272521



Also:



"Of course, you can go to your favorite auto service facility and have a trans flush and refill done. Many shops today have a machine for this purpose, but you've got to be sure of what you're getting. Some quick-lube places will just attach the machine to a cooler line, exchange the fluid, and call it done. We beg to differ. The pan should be removed for cleaning."



I can't agree more about that first sentence. As new automatic transmissions become more and more sophisticated, and shade tree mechanics become less and less inclined to learn new tricks, seeing a DIYer rebuilding his own transmission will be increasingly rare. So the obvious answer is to not skimp on cleaning, filters and fluid. A flush and a filter should be mandatory, and no part should skipped in the name of false economy.



The problem comes with the flushing equipment. Some use high pressures that can damage seals. Some force the fluid against the normal flow direction, which can damage seals and other delicate parts. Many use solvents that might not have the viscosity to prevent galling and other damage, even though they claim to remove varnish.



As long as your automatic transmission is new and/or well maintained, there shouldn't be any varnish or other build-ups. If that's yours, choose a low pressure machine that does nothing worse than make sure that all old ATF has been purged. Spend some time going to local shops or rental houses, write down make and model numbers, then go and research what each model does. If you take it to a shop, make sure that the service ticket specifies a low pressure, no solvent flush.



If you just bought a used car with no real pedigree (or your own high miler is due for a change), it's a wise decision to check the ATF first. If there are any signs of damage or abnormal wear, drop the pan (but save any solids on the bottom of the pan for inspection), replace the filter, power flush the trans, replace the filter with another new one, button it up and hope for the best.



Speaking of filters, don't be a cheapskate today, or you may be a big loser down the road. Filters are inexpensive. Dropping the pan is messy and costly when you factor in the cost of new ATF, cleaning etc. As long as it's being done, adding a new filter is common sense. If you're going to have a shop do the work for you, stop by the parts store and buy the best transmission filter for your car. If the mechanic balks at changing the filter, possibly saying "I don't think we stock your model", then produce your filter and force the issue. If they do have your kind, be sure to have them bag it up and give it to you; they must by law.



Don't forget to return the unused filter if you didn't need it. :driving: