Trans problem...solenoid replacement?

[FlipTrac_511]

Hello friends. My 04's transmission is acting weird again, and by weird I mean a 1-2 or 2-3 shift flare (not sure which, but probably 2-3) at ~2300 rpms. *Insert ominous music here*



It's mild and intermittent, but I don't want it getting worse. I've done the battery disconnect thing, then drove her mildly but the flare persists. No warning lights and the fluid looks and smells okay.



Before I begin my search for a local and reliable tranny shop, I'm wondering if it may just be a solenoid that needs replacing...and if this is a project I am capable of undertaking. I have the tools, a driveway, and some mechanical experience with my Trac already. But the transmission is an animal of its own, so I'd appreciate any and all feedback regarding DIY work on it. As it is, I've only dropped the pan to replace the filter and adjust the EPC.



My 04's transmission has already been through a couple of warranty jobs. Solenoids were replaced the first time and then completely replaced with a rebuilt one at ~28K miles. No problems since. I even had it flushed recently at around 56K miles. A few months ago, I started using my 91 octane performance tune off my XCal2. And that brings me to where I am now, at just over 60K miles.



I believe my Trac doesn't like the 91 performance tune that I'm using (from a previous sponsor), because just around the same time my first problem with the trans ~30K miles ago, I was also using the same tune.



Thanks in advance..!

 

[EddieS'04]

You might want to replace the solenoid if it just started. But if you have the xcal tuning the trans also. Might cause a problem bumping the epc prssure. Can you check with your tuner on the trans tune?

 

[FlipTrac_511]

Thx F.Eddie. As soon as I noticed the flare, I switched back to stock tune immediately.

 

[Todd Z]

Well, Honestly I was going to change my 2-3, But I got a New Tune from Torrie and all I can say is the tranny is staying together...



He was able to change the transmission in such a way that it is back to the way it should be...



Rachel's Truck shifts sooo crisp and clean I had to give it a try...... I got the tune and immediately noticed a huge differance...



IF you change the solenoids, the OEM replacements are about $150 for the EPC and $40-50 for EACH shift...



Todd Z

 

[Richard L]

The Sport Trac's are notorious for bad valve bodies. The are prone to leaking and sticking. The sticking is what puts extra load on the solenoids making them slow to shift because they have difficulty moving the sticking valves in the valve body.



You can replace the solenoids individually or as a set, and that may cure the problem, but it may only be a temporary fix. If you have the sticking valve bodies, eventually the new solenoids will start to have difficulty moving the valves and shifts will become slow and slipping will occur again.



The other common problem is the leaking valve body and that simply means that the valve body is not perfectly flat and does not mate to the gasket and where it it meets the other half of the valve body in the transmission. The leaks cause a lose of pressure and and some shifts can become sluggish. There are companies that sell improved valve bodies for the Sport Trac that eliminate the 2-3 shift flare.



An adjustment of the EPC can improve the shifts, but again, it's probably only a temporary fix. The only real cure is to replace the valve body and solenoids, but you have to do it early enough before the slipping starts to take it's toll on the orther tramsission parts. The solenoids and valve body can be replaced by simply removing the transmission pan and filter so you do not need to remove the transmission from the vehicle.



...Rich

 

[John Zuber]

Are there any photos on how to do this?

 

[FlipTrac_511]

Todd, thanks for the solenoids info.

There are companies that sell improved valve bodies for the Sport Trac that eliminate the 2-3 shift flare.

Richard, where can I find more info about this?



Thanks!

 

[Todd Z]

The original issue with the valve body was a gasket issue and update to the new 2003 valve body style..



The flair is a sticky solenoid issue...



The VB companies I know of, Just took an OEM VB and worked it a little...

Not worth it for me....



Unless Rich knows of something newer then the last time I looked into it..



I am all happy inside... LOL :lol::lol:



Todd Z

 

[Richard L]

Thanks Todd,

Yes, the valve bodies were prone to a gasket leak because the mating surface was not perfectly flat. In building a performance transmission, it is common to place a large piece of 1000 grit sandpaper on a sheed of glass and lightly sand the mating suface of the valve body until it is dead flat. That prevents gasket leaks, especially when the pressure is increased.



I cannot find the link, but I found a company in California that sold parts and rebuilt the Ford 5R55E transmissions. The would sell you a drag racing transmission for about $2500. Street-Strip units were about $2000. That does not include shipping and you had to send your old transmission back or there was a $500 core charge.



I'm thinking the name of the company was Performance Transmissions, but I'm not sure. I originally did a search under "5R55E" and got a whole bunch of sites that made imporved valve bodies, etc to cure the 2-3 shift flare, but now I don't see so many.



It is correct that Ford came out with an improved relacement valve body and gasket kit for the Sport Trac transmission, but I cannot say if they were any better or not?



The shift flare has been a problem with the Ford trasnsmissions since way back when they came out with the 4 speed version back in the early-mid 1990's. The 5 speed OD versiion is of the exact same design, except they added sensors to several gears to determine the speed of the gears to tell if it had disengaged 2nd before trying to shift into 3rd. If the computer sense the gears were not moving at the proper speeds it would not shift and give a error and blink the OD light. The problems is that the transmission is usually shot before the OD light blinks it's warning.



...Rich

 

[Doug Watts]

Check out these threads in the explorer forum...



http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140987



http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154655





I'm still reading through them, but the first one has some GREAT info on rebuilding the valve body so far.

 

[FlipTrac_511]

Doug, I've actually been browsing that site as well but haven't ran into those articles. Thanks for the links! I'm seriously considering this. Unfortunately, no disposable funds until July. You thinking of doing this too?

 

[Doug Watts]

Yup. I've had the 2-3 flair for several weeks now, but I pay VERY close attention and back off the accelerator when it starts to slip. I also know that I'm overdue on my fluid change so that may be part of the problem too.



First project is changing the filter and fluid (going with AMSoil instead of Royal Purple this time) then adding a drain plug. If that doesn't fix the flair, then I'll follow those projects and rebuild the valve body. And if worst comes to worst, I'll make it last as long as I can so I can get the funds together, but I don't think it will have to get to that point.

 

[Woppy V]

our ST tranny's are not the healthiest of lot. argh. :angry:

 

[FlipTrac_511]

What can I say, Woppy?



Doug, I've been relatively easy on the pedal too, and just had the dealership flush it less than 5K miles ago. My Trac doesn't like lateral acceleration around 2300rpms. It will frequently slip under this condition, the severity depending on how much gas I'm giving it. It doesn't do it all the time, but it'll do it before long.



I'm seriously looking into undertaking the VB and solenoid replacement when funds and time off are available. From my experience, a flush doesn't prevent the problem, and I don't see how it would fix a mechanical problem unless its freeing up debris that's causing valves to stick?

 

[Doug Watts]

Trac, You're right, a flush won't fix it if it's a mechanical problem, but since I'm overdue anyway that's going to be my first step. I'm hoping it's just some debris that a flush/change and new fluid will fix. If not, a new experience is forth coming!

 

[Richard L]

Doug,

Actually, a tranny flush might just clear up your problem...at least for a while. It's true that you cannot fix a mechanical problem with a fluid change, you can fix a problem if it has not gone so far that it is now a mechanical problem.



The valves are sticking because of deposits in the valve body bores. Once the valves start to stick, that puts a strain on the solenoids that push and pull on those valves to make the transmission shift. Fresh fluid with fresh detergents and friction modifiers could clean out some of the deposits and make the valves and the actuaing solenoids work easier. That will reduce shift delays and the shifts might be crisper and reduce or eliminate the 2-3 shift flare.



I have always hear that if you are having an automatic transmission problem, it was always worth the money and time to change the transmission fluid. More often then not, if it was just bad fluid, or somthing sticking, the new fluid will solve the problem, or at least make it more tollerable until it can be fixed.



Look around for the place that charges the cheapest prices for a transmission flush. I go to a local Quik-Kar Lube center and they only charge $85 for up to 14 quarts of 100% Synthetic Mercon-V made by Pennzoil.



It made a big difference in the shifting and accelleration in my 2001 Sport Trac after 33K miles on the old fluid, and I never notice any problems with it. But it was definitely better.



On my 2003 Sport Trac, I had the fluid changed at 21K miles and did not notice any significant difference, and never had any problems before or after the flush.



...Rich

 

[Shawn Rogan]

Doug.

Hi there. i came upon your post and wanted to clarify what you mean by "flare"? i have an '04 as well and my transmission has been acting "wierd" too. it feels as though it is slipping on a shift whereby you see the RPM increase but no power coming with it. it doesn't necessarily "jolt" into gear but it takes a moment for it to get to get "hooked back up". often times i find myself let off the accelerator and then re-engage and that gets it "hooked up".



i had the ford dealership go thru it and they found nothing obvious to report. it has been flushed and re-filled. it seemed to happen more when the truck was cold and less as it warmed up after some driving. it was happening often but now it is becoming increasingly consistent.



i almost have 85k on my truck.



have you tried any of the suggestions? anything work for you?



shawn