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SportTrac Discussion
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Truck goes crazy when key is out of the ignition, Instrument cluster goes on and off, beeps, ...but I don't think it's the actual instrument cluster.
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<blockquote data-quote="Evox" data-source="post: 1041705" data-attributes="member: 74754"><p>Check my math.</p><p></p><p>-pulling the PCM relay and fuse does not eliminate the draw or malfunction.</p><p></p><p>-I verified today that G300 (ground wire behind drivers kick plate) is as good as it looks.</p><p></p><p>To make sure F2-25 is THE only problem, I reinstalled the fuse and noted a 650 milliamp battery draw at the battery (I don't know how I missed this before). A spike followed this, and then a constant 1.5 amp draw as various relays clicked closed (energized). For short periods of time, even higher (I know I saw 5 or 6 amps momentarily during a malfunction event) but only for a fraction of a second. Those spikes were hard to determine because they were very short in duration and transient.</p><p></p><p>-leaving in F2-25, I then individually pulled out F2-26, F2-27, F2-28, F2-29, all fuses going to the cluster; nothing changed the draw, spike, or malfunction.</p><p></p><p>Next, I wanted to try to find out which relays where were involved. So I systematically pulled relays one by one to see if I could eliminate the amp spike; none of them did that, I could still hear a relay clicking somewhere. But it doesn't appear to be in F1 (fusebox in the engine compartment). It sounds like it's on the driver's side, but my ears aren't good enough for me to be sure.</p><p></p><p>So I think I can be fairly confident that the trigger is F2-25 which goes to the cluster, 4x4 module. And since my truck is a RWD, that leaves F2-25 to the cluster.</p><p></p><p>So, in my opinion, this is the instrument cluster, and because of the draw unlike my last cluster problem, and most cluster problems, this one does very much look like a short of some kind. </p><p></p><p>Does my math check out? IS there something else I should look at or eliminate?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Evox, post: 1041705, member: 74754"] Check my math. -pulling the PCM relay and fuse does not eliminate the draw or malfunction. -I verified today that G300 (ground wire behind drivers kick plate) is as good as it looks. To make sure F2-25 is THE only problem, I reinstalled the fuse and noted a 650 milliamp battery draw at the battery (I don't know how I missed this before). A spike followed this, and then a constant 1.5 amp draw as various relays clicked closed (energized). For short periods of time, even higher (I know I saw 5 or 6 amps momentarily during a malfunction event) but only for a fraction of a second. Those spikes were hard to determine because they were very short in duration and transient. -leaving in F2-25, I then individually pulled out F2-26, F2-27, F2-28, F2-29, all fuses going to the cluster; nothing changed the draw, spike, or malfunction. Next, I wanted to try to find out which relays where were involved. So I systematically pulled relays one by one to see if I could eliminate the amp spike; none of them did that, I could still hear a relay clicking somewhere. But it doesn't appear to be in F1 (fusebox in the engine compartment). It sounds like it's on the driver's side, but my ears aren't good enough for me to be sure. So I think I can be fairly confident that the trigger is F2-25 which goes to the cluster, 4x4 module. And since my truck is a RWD, that leaves F2-25 to the cluster. So, in my opinion, this is the instrument cluster, and because of the draw unlike my last cluster problem, and most cluster problems, this one does very much look like a short of some kind. Does my math check out? IS there something else I should look at or eliminate? [/QUOTE]
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SportTrac Discussion
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Truck goes crazy when key is out of the ignition, Instrument cluster goes on and off, beeps, ...but I don't think it's the actual instrument cluster.
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