Trying to install New Bodymount Bushings?

[Kirk Rich]

So I'm trying to install some new poly Bodymount bushings on my 2005 XLT. Using this video as a guide it's pretty straight forward.



I'm only needing to replace B & C as was the guy in the video. I have removed the bolts/bottom part on the passenger side for B & C, but when I go to jack up the body from the frame it is not separating.
Basically, the frame/body and all is lifting, and I have a wooden block in the same spot on the body pinch welds. How am I supposed to get the upper bushings (what's left) out to replace them?

 

[blert]

You need to remove all four bolts (A,B,C, and D), even if you are only changing the two of them. Might as well do all four.

 

[Kirk Rich]

You need to remove all four bolts (A,B,C, and D), even if you are only changing the two of them. Might as well do all four.

Thanks, I had a feeling. That D one is not easy to get at, especially since I have an amp mounted there. I haven't even looked at how you access the A one, looks like under the hood.

 

[blert]

When you get to D make sure you have a magnet-on-a-stick handy. Don't want tools or washers falling down in there. The A one is a snap, mine had a nut you get to from the top and then the bolt from the bottom. The bolt did not just drop out, had to unscrew it too.

 

[Kirk Rich]

When you get to D make sure you have a magnet-on-a-stick handy. Don't want tools or washers falling down in there. The A one is a snap, mine had a nut you get to from the top and then the bolt from the bottom. The bolt did not just drop out, had to unscrew it too.

Well, the A one was a snap alright. Bolt snapped in two!
Gave up on A after about 40 minutes and thought I could just get B, C, & D in but I couldn't get the body high enough to get B in.

Went back to work on A and now the bolt head has snapped off. Not sure what to do now, cut the whole thing off from the bottom if possible and find a new bolt??

 

[blert]

Damn, that is rough. Did you soak with penetrating fluid the night before and then hit it again about ten minutes before trying to get them out, then use a torch to liquify the lock-tight Ford puts on them?
I think it might be a grade 8 bolt (maybe higher). Don't take my word for it, ToddZ knows and has posted before what grade bolt it is, you will have to search. You can get them at the hardware store.

Edit: Not grade 8! Use grade 12, see below.

 

[blert]

Found where it is suggested to use grade 12 bolts...
https://sporttrac.org/threads/body-bolts-needed.123299/post-1044310

 

[Todd Z]

Do them all.... sheesh....

 

[Evox]

Well, the A one was a snap alright. Bolt snapped in two!
Gave up on A after about 40 minutes and thought I could just get B, C, & D in but I couldn't get the body high enough to get B in.

Went back to work on A and now the bolt head has snapped off. Not sure what to do now, cut the whole thing off from the bottom if possible and find a new bolt??

Use fire.

My truck has ZERO rust, and lived its whole life with me outside the rust belt, and I had to use my butane torch to get the bolts loose.

(one down. Bang that one through and get yourself another bolt)

 

[Kirk Rich]

Use fire.

My truck has ZERO rust, and lived its whole life with me outside the rust belt, and I had to use my butane torch to get the bolts loose.

(one down. Bang that one through and get yourself another bolt)

Thanks. That's what I plan on when I get a chance. The nut on top of that one is hard to get to, no room to get a wrench on it. I need about a 1.5 ft. extension to reach it, and I suppose some vise grips to hold it in place on the bottom.

 

[EddieS'04]

My body man replaced my b,c and d bushings. He had to tie my frame to his frame machine to separate the cab.
My A bushing at the radiator header, was of a different material and good shape.

 

[christopher shears]

I do not do all the work related to replacing middle body mounts. S/T 1
I buy 3M liquid poly urethane
Window weld 08609 it’s expensive
Dryes stiff and rubbery perfect
For a fake body mount
Make a dounut let it dry
And done
I jack up truck 1 inch or 2 clean out
Body mount area old foam stuff
and put some grease in between
The plastic parts then make my donut of liquid. First one is messy use gloves…after that dries 2 days do the bottom half. And Magic it’s done
Do two at a time mission complete
It ain’t pretty but it works
1 tube per two upper and lower

 

[blert]

I do not do all the work related to replacing middle body mounts. S/T 1
I buy 3M liquid poly urethane
Window weld 08609 it’s expensive
Dryes stiff and rubbery perfect
For a fake body mount
Make a dounut let it dry
And done
I jack up truck 1 inch or 2 clean out
Body mount area old foam stuff
and put some grease in between
The plastic parts then make my donut of liquid. First one is messy use gloves…after that dries 2 days do the bottom half. And Magic it’s done
Do two at a time mission complete
It ain’t pretty but it works
1 tube per two upper and lower

Not trying to be a jerk, just sayin...
So, for ~$50, you can do a half-assed diy job while still doing most of the work, only do four of the bushings, and spend many days waiting for it to cure. But for ~$100 you could replace all eight bushing sets with a proper kit and be back on the road in a few hours.

 

[swshawaii]

^ Agree 100%. Stacked hockey pucks would be an upgrade over that "hacked" body mount job.

 

[christopher shears]

My body man replaced my b,c and d bushings. He had to tie my frame to his frame machine to separate the cab.
My A bushing at the radiator header, was of a different material and good shape.

 

[christopher shears]

The A bushing and the D bushing are made of rubber …and I never seen one go bad….B/C bushing are foam
And are worthlessness after 8 years
So middle two need changing

 

[christopher shears]

Not trying to be a jerk, just sayin...
So, for ~$50, you can do a half-assed diy job while still doing most of the work, only do four of the bushings, and spend many days waiting for it to cure. But for ~$100 you could replace all eight bushing sets with a proper kit and be back on the road in a few hours.

No worries I just gave you what works for me….. I been there ..on removing the door trims. Taking out all the truck seats..taking out the floor mat and trying to get out those rusted sealed
bolts. Out….that job is a bear….
All day hard work at the least….
This way is 20 minutes and a day to dry..no back breaking work
It’s just a work truck to me
Bettering the ride a little bit
Just giving others a different idea
By the way at the body shop
That is a 800 dollar 5 years ago

 

[christopher shears]

^ Agree 100%. Stacked hockey pucks would be an upgrade over that "hacked" body mount job.

Once again
Have you replaced the body mounts yourself … really.
Or are you just talking
The job is a bear …
Floor trim got to be removed
Seats got to be removed and taken out
Floor covering has got to be pulled up
Then you got to removed 20 years old rusted bolts underneath
That were factory locktighted with the
real strong stuff….so you either got to heat then with a torch or cut them off (not easy)then
Lift the truck and
Wiggle the $100 hockey pucks in place
Then put the new $$$ bolts in place
Then tighten down the bolts again
Put back the floor covering seats trim
All of this for 2 body mounts cause
A/D mounts are made of rubber and don’t go bad..only B/C go bad I have 5 s/t 2 sports I know
All this for 2 body mounts when you can poly urethane then in 30 mins
You know how I know
Done both. And I can’t tell the difference
Besides it’s a 20 year old truck
Who cares
This website supposed to save you time
With different ideas
Trying to help other people out
So if you did do the body mounts
Yourself I’m impressed
I will never do them again
That way…
It’s just waisted time.
Learned 3M poly urethane
From Honda sport drivers
Saving money by making there own
Motor mounts with the stuff.

 

[blert]

Once again
Have you replaced the body mounts yourself … really.
Or are you just talking
The job is a bear …
Floor trim got to be removed
Seats got to be removed and taken out
Floor covering has got to be pulled up
Then you got to removed 20 years old rusted bolts underneath
That were factory locktighted with the
real strong stuff….so you either got to heat then with a torch or cut them off (not easy)then
Lift the truck and
Wiggle the $100 hockey pucks in place
Then put the new $$$ bolts in place
Then tighten down the bolts again
Put back the floor covering seats trim
All of this for 2 body mounts cause
A/D mounts are made of rubber and don’t go bad..only B/C go bad I have 5 s/t 2 sports I know
All this for 2 body mounts when you can poly urethane then in 30 mins
You know how I know
Done both. And I can’t tell the difference
Besides it’s a 20 year old truck
Who cares
This website supposed to save you time
With different ideas
Trying to help other people out
So if you did do the body mounts
Yourself I’m impressed
I will never do them again
That way…
It’s just waisted time.
Learned 3M poly urethane
From Honda sport drivers
Saving money by making there own
Motor mounts with the stuff.

Yup, sure have. It's cake. Do one side at a time. Trim pieces just pop off. You don't have to remove the seats but loosening them and tilting them forward can afford you some wiggle room. The flooring just folds out of the way. The bolts are easy to deal with by soaking with penetrant the night before and then hit them again ten minutes before you start. Use a torch to heat from the bottom if you still have trouble. Then jack up the side, remove the old stuff and slip the new bushings in. Easy as pie. The hard part is jacking it up, need a tall jack. Took me ~six hours, and I work slow.

 

[swshawaii]

Once again
Have you replaced the body mounts yourself … really.
Or are you just talking

Yes I have. Twice by myself in about four hours each time. (B & C only)
https://sporttrac.org/threads/body-mount-bushings.122833/post-1040642