Trying to install New Bodymount Bushings?

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Kirk Rich

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So I'm trying to install some new poly Bodymount bushings on my 2005 XLT. Using this video as a guide it's pretty straight forward.


I'm only needing to replace B & C as was the guy in the video. I have removed the bolts/bottom part on the passenger side for B & C, but when I go to jack up the body from the frame it is not separating.
Basically, the frame/body and all is lifting, and I have a wooden block in the same spot on the body pinch welds. How am I supposed to get the upper bushings (what's left) out to replace them?
 

Kirk Rich

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You need to remove all four bolts (A,B,C, and D), even if you are only changing the two of them. Might as well do all four.
Thanks, I had a feeling. That D one is not easy to get at, especially since I have an amp mounted there. I haven't even looked at how you access the A one, looks like under the hood.
 

blert

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When you get to D make sure you have a magnet-on-a-stick handy. Don't want tools or washers falling down in there. The A one is a snap, mine had a nut you get to from the top and then the bolt from the bottom. The bolt did not just drop out, had to unscrew it too.
 

Kirk Rich

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When you get to D make sure you have a magnet-on-a-stick handy. Don't want tools or washers falling down in there. The A one is a snap, mine had a nut you get to from the top and then the bolt from the bottom. The bolt did not just drop out, had to unscrew it too.
Well, the A one was a snap alright. Bolt snapped in two!
Gave up on A after about 40 minutes and thought I could just get B, C, & D in but I couldn't get the body high enough to get B in.

Went back to work on A and now the bolt head has snapped off. Not sure what to do now, cut the whole thing off from the bottom if possible and find a new bolt??
 

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blert

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Damn, that is rough. Did you soak with penetrating fluid the night before and then hit it again about ten minutes before trying to get them out, then use a torch to liquify the lock-tight Ford puts on them?
I think it might be a grade 8 bolt (maybe higher). Don't take my word for it, ToddZ knows and has posted before what grade bolt it is, you will have to search. You can get them at the hardware store.

Edit: Not grade 8! Use grade 12, see below.
 
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blert

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Found where it is suggested to use grade 12 bolts...
 

Evox

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Well, the A one was a snap alright. Bolt snapped in two!
Gave up on A after about 40 minutes and thought I could just get B, C, & D in but I couldn't get the body high enough to get B in.

Went back to work on A and now the bolt head has snapped off. Not sure what to do now, cut the whole thing off from the bottom if possible and find a new bolt??

Use fire.

My truck has ZERO rust, and lived its whole life with me outside the rust belt, and I had to use my butane torch to get the bolts loose.

(one down. Bang that one through and get yourself another bolt)
 

Kirk Rich

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Use fire.

My truck has ZERO rust, and lived its whole life with me outside the rust belt, and I had to use my butane torch to get the bolts loose.

(one down. Bang that one through and get yourself another bolt)
Thanks. That's what I plan on when I get a chance. The nut on top of that one is hard to get to, no room to get a wrench on it. I need about a 1.5 ft. extension to reach it, and I suppose some vise grips to hold it in place on the bottom.
 

EddieS'04

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My body man replaced my b,c and d bushings. He had to tie my frame to his frame machine to separate the cab.
My A bushing at the radiator header, was of a different material and good shape.
 
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I do not do all the work related to replacing middle body mounts. S/T 1
I buy 3M liquid poly urethane
Window weld 08609 it’s expensive
Dryes stiff and rubbery perfect
For a fake body mount
Make a dounut let it dry
And done
I jack up truck 1 inch or 2 clean out
Body mount area old foam stuff
and put some grease in between
The plastic parts then make my donut of liquid. First one is messy use gloves…after that dries 2 days do the bottom half. And Magic it’s done
Do two at a time mission complete
It ain’t pretty but it works
1 tube per two upper and lower
 

blert

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I do not do all the work related to replacing middle body mounts. S/T 1
I buy 3M liquid poly urethane
Window weld 08609 it’s expensive
Dryes stiff and rubbery perfect
For a fake body mount
Make a dounut let it dry
And done
I jack up truck 1 inch or 2 clean out
Body mount area old foam stuff
and put some grease in between
The plastic parts then make my donut of liquid. First one is messy use gloves…after that dries 2 days do the bottom half. And Magic it’s done
Do two at a time mission complete
It ain’t pretty but it works
1 tube per two upper and lower
Not trying to be a jerk, just sayin...
So, for ~$50, you can do a half-assed diy job while still doing most of the work, only do four of the bushings, and spend many days waiting for it to cure. But for ~$100 you could replace all eight bushing sets with a proper kit and be back on the road in a few hours.
 
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Not trying to be a jerk, just sayin...
So, for ~$50, you can do a half-assed diy job while still doing most of the work, only do four of the bushings, and spend many days waiting for it to cure. But for ~$100 you could replace all eight bushing sets with a proper kit and be back on the road in a few hours.
No worries I just gave you what works for me….. I been there ..on removing the door trims. Taking out all the truck seats..taking out the floor mat and trying to get out those rusted sealed
bolts. Out….that job is a bear….
All day hard work at the least….
This way is 20 minutes and a day to dry..no back breaking work
It’s just a work truck to me
Bettering the ride a little bit
Just giving others a different idea
By the way at the body shop
That is a 800 dollar 5 years ago
 

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