Trying to install New Bodymount Bushings?

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Yup, sure have. It's cake. Do one side at a time. Trim pieces just pop off. You don't have to remove the seats but loosening them and tilting them forward can afford you some wiggle room. The flooring just folds out of the way. The bolts are easy to deal with by soaking with penetrant the night before and then hit them again ten minutes before you start. Use a torch to heat from the bottom if you still have trouble. Then jack up the side, remove the old stuff and slip the new bushings in. Easy as pie. The hard part is jacking it up, need a tall jack. Took me ~six hours, and I work slow.
Ok
 

Dmiranda1269

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I do not do all the work related to replacing middle body mounts. S/T 1
I buy 3M liquid poly urethane
Window weld 08609 it’s expensive
Dryes stiff and rubbery perfect
For a fake body mount
Make a dounut let it dry
And done
I jack up truck 1 inch or 2 clean out
Body mount area old foam stuff
and put some grease in between
The plastic parts then make my donut of liquid. First one is messy use gloves…after that dries 2 days do the bottom half. And Magic it’s done
Do two at a time mission complete
It ain’t pretty but it works
1 tube per two upper and lower
That's a good way to hack it I guess
 

Dmiranda1269

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Once again
Have you replaced the body mounts yourself … really.
Or are you just talking
The job is a bear …
Floor trim got to be removed
Seats got to be removed and taken out
Floor covering has got to be pulled up
Then you got to removed 20 years old rusted bolts underneath
That were factory locktighted with the
real strong stuff….so you either got to heat then with a torch or cut them off (not easy)then
Lift the truck and
Wiggle the $100 hockey pucks in place
Then put the new $$$ bolts in place
Then tighten down the bolts again
Put back the floor covering seats trim
All of this for 2 body mounts cause
A/D mounts are made of rubber and don’t go bad..only B/C go bad I have 5 s/t 2 sports I know
All this for 2 body mounts when you can poly urethane then in 30 mins
You know how I know
Done both. And I can’t tell the difference
Besides it’s a 20 year old truck
Who cares
This website supposed to save you time
With different ideas
Trying to help other people out
So if you did do the body mounts
Yourself I’m impressed
I will never do them again
That way…
It’s just waisted time.
Learned 3M poly urethane
From Honda sport drivers
Saving money by making there own
Motor mounts with the stuff.
Not wasted ti.e.
Did mine myself. 2 days for the lift and bushings.
Heated them up alot and cane right off. The bed bolts all snapped on me. But I sure wouldn't hack together bushings the way someone mentioned. Better off leave them alone
 

Kirk Rich

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Yup, sure have. It's cake. Do one side at a time. Trim pieces just pop off. You don't have to remove the seats but loosening them and tilting them forward can afford you some wiggle room. The flooring just folds out of the way. The bolts are easy to deal with by soaking with penetrant the night before and then hit them again ten minutes before you start. Use a torch to heat from the bottom if you still have trouble. Then jack up the side, remove the old stuff and slip the new bushings in. Easy as pie. The hard part is jacking it up, need a tall jack. Took me ~six hours, and I work slow.
I did all that. Unfortunately the passenger front A bolt still snapped. I also couldn't get the Driver side D lower metal bushing piece to separate by threading the bolt in from the bottom and sledging with a punch from the top. So I could not replace the bushing. I may give it another try later on but that bushing is still good, although obviously I'd prefer the new one.
 

blert

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I did all that. Unfortunately the passenger front A bolt still snapped. I also couldn't get the Driver side D lower metal bushing piece to separate by threading the bolt in from the bottom and sledging with a punch from the top. So I could not replace the bushing. I may give it another try later on but that bushing is still good, although obviously I'd prefer the new one.
If you decide to take another whack at it, drown that punk in penetrant again, from the top and bottom. You could also apply heat but have someone on lookout inside if you shoot it with penetrant from the top.
 

swshawaii

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I also couldn't get the Driver side D lower metal bushing piece to separate by threading the bolt in from the bottom and sledging with a punch from the top. So I could not replace the bushing. I may give it another try later on but that bushing is still good, although obviously I'd prefer the new one.
Metal "tabs" on the lower "D" bushings that must be compressed to separate the upper sleeves.

See 6th. and 7th. pics in link below.
 

blert

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Metal "tabs" on the lower "D" bushings that must be compressed to separate the upper sleeves.

See 6th. and 7th. pics in link below.
Forgot about those. Good catch!
 

Kirk Rich

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Metal "tabs" on the lower "D" bushings that must be compressed to separate the upper sleeves.

See 6th. and 7th. pics in link below.
Thanks. Not even sure how you would do that, especially if they are that rusted.
 

Todd Z

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Front A is like a double nut and single bolt. you have to remove the lower nut first, THEN un do the bolt form the top, In between the rad support and the frame is another stupid "cone" nut …. Done so it stays together at the factory for easy assembly...
 

carlthess50

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I do not do all the work related to replacing middle body mounts. S/T 1
I buy 3M liquid poly urethane
Window weld 08609 it’s expensive
Dryes stiff and rubbery perfect
For a fake body mount
Make a dounut let it dry
And done
I jack up truck 1 inch or 2 clean out
Body mount area old foam stuff
and put some grease in between
The plastic parts then make my donut of liquid. First one is messy use gloves…after that dries 2 days do the bottom half. And Magic it’s done
Do two at a time mission complete
It ain’t pretty but it works
1 tube per two upper and lower
I like how you think outside the box
 

swshawaii

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Thanks. Not even sure how you would do that, especially if they are that rusted.
Further into the thread using 1/2" conduit is mentioned. If the sleeves are seized by corrosion cutting may be your only option. Then you would need replacement OEM shells and bolts.
 

blert

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Further into the thread using 1/2" conduit is mentioned. If the sleeves are seized by corrosion cutting may be your only option. Then you would need replacement OEM shells and bolts.
I just pounded them out. Did it bend the clips? Yup, bent them back into shape. Don't think it even really needs them.
 
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